Pending radiator removal to send to shop for recore/rebuild - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old Sep 28th, 11, 05:36 AM Thread Starter
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Arrow Pending radiator removal to send to shop for recore/rebuild

So just thinking through the process to drain, remove, reinstall and fill the cooling system in an 1969 SS 350 SB.
Have not done one in 25 years or so.
The plan

Drain system:
Remove radiator cap, open drain peacock, or for faster evacuation unhook lower radiator hose and collect fluid contents for local environmental collection

Disconnect upper hose, then lower if not done already.
Disconnect fan shroud from radiator while system is draining.
Disconnect and remove battery so you can get to the bolts.
Unbolt radiator left, right, top from support shroud.

Re-core/rebuild:
Sent to local shop for restoration using original tanks and tag.

Re-installation:
Bolt radiator to shroud.
re-attach fan shroud.
Attach lower hose.
Make sure drain peacock is closed.
Remove thermostat from block.
Slowly add antifreeze/water mix until it hits neck of thermostat housing.
Replace thermostat and attach upper radiator hose.
Check and tighten all bolts on shroud.
Install battery, and connect cables.
Start and run to temp watching the fluid level and add as air exits the system.
Adjust level when engine cold to mark on radiator.
check fluid every start for the next few until system stabilizes.

Have I missed anything?
Any better tricks to evacuate air from the block then removing the t-stat?

Someone told me to remove the the water pump belt from the pulley, then and run it around the outside of a drill chuck, pulling down tight to put tension on the belt and use the drill to run the pump a few minutes. Besides being a PITA to do, maybe easier with a smaller belt, I ask would a standard drill have enough RPM's to actually move enough fluid through the pump/jacket to evacuate the air?

Thanks in advance
Brian


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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old Sep 28th, 11, 05:47 AM
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Re: Pending radiator removal to send to shop for recore/rebuild

That is a rather detailed instruction list.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old Sep 28th, 11, 06:12 AM
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Re: Pending radiator removal to send to shop for recore/rebuild

Might want to remove the tag yourself if poss.

I've had a problem everytime even though you tell them how important the tag is. Had the manager in their dumpster last time to find my UH tag which he did luckily.

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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old Sep 28th, 11, 06:26 AM
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Re: Pending radiator removal to send to shop for recore/rebuild

Yes, way detailed! you will need to remove the fan at some point, just because it gets in the way and I usually gash my hand on the edge. no need to do that complicated purge procedure. if you t-stat is not leaking, do not mess with it. Chevy engines self purge. Just run the engine with rad cap off while filling and watching for the bubbles to stop and fill to correct cold line.

I too would be very careful of the tag! A rad shop did trash stuff I wanted saved too. I would personnally look at the core they are going to use before you give them the rad. most new cores have a different shaped support bars (top and bottom rails of core). they do not look original and too big that make it very hard to attach the shroud.

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old Sep 28th, 11, 07:24 AM
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Re: Pending radiator removal to send to shop for recore/rebuild

Your are on the right track. Does this car have AC ? Automatic or 4 speed. ,makes a differance .
If it is an automatic , then you are going to have to remove the Transmission lines from the radiator as well. Do not spin the water pump with a drill, total waste of time. You DO NOT need to remove the thermostat to fill. However for the sake of a couple bucks its always a good idea to replace it when doing a radiator recore. DO NOT leave the thermostat out like some back yard mechanics do. If you A/C and the stock clutch fan, you will have to remove the fan , as it very close to the radiator core. This way you avoid damge the new core when reinstalling.


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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old Sep 28th, 11, 04:57 PM
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Re: Pending radiator removal to send to shop for recore/rebuild

Good list. And good suggestions given.
I would replace the thermostat, after testing it a pan of water and known good mercury thermometer, and if it did not have vent hole, install one using a 1/16 inch drill bit.
I would also check the date codes of the hoses and if over 5 years old, replace them, even if the car is only driven 50 miles in a week. Include heater hoses also.

You can see this coming, Snowball Effect, belt(s), new antifreeze, new cap, the list goes on........

You could add a can/bottle of Prestone Flush to help remove other stuff.
I find removing the t/stat housing and with the block plugs out, they get replaced with brass pitcocks, I wonder if the same gorilla still works at GM who installed them, and use a garden hose directed to both sides of the block to rinse out remaining coolant and sediment. Yes, I know, you're not going to get it all out, but, a good portion will drain out.

Then, you still got the water pump.........

I generally unbolt the shroud, unclip it from the rad brackets, and lay it back on the fan.
i bend over further to get to the pass side bottom rad mounting bolt, but I was younger and more limber also...........

Only mix the ratio needed for the climate. Water is the best heat absorbent by itself, adding antifreeze decreases surface tension and the pending coolant does not absorb heat as well as water by itself.

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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old Sep 28th, 11, 10:37 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Pending radiator removal to send to shop for recore/rebuild

Thanks for all the input.
Yeah I thought the water pump priming sequence was a total waste of time but two guys at work suggested it.


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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old Sep 29th, 11, 01:48 PM
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Re: Pending radiator removal to send to shop for recore/rebuild

I agree with flushing with a garden hose. However, be aware that your car's cooling system operates at less than 20 psi. Your garden hose will be about 50psi or more. It is easy to split an old heater core by blowing it out with too high water pressure. If it doesnt leak now, it might after flushing. Just go easy on the pressure and you'll be fine.....Jb

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