Need to replace the Heater Core - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old Feb 17th, 18, 01:27 PM Thread Starter
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Dennis
 
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Need to replace the Heater Core

I have a 1968 non/AC. The Heater core went bad yesterday..... Antifreeze everywhere.... Inside and outside the car.

I see there are numerous sizes that all apparently fit the car. Does anyone have any first hand knowledge on the correct size. I haven't taken the old one out yet.

That brings me to the second question...how difficult is this? Thanks much for the help.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old Feb 17th, 18, 02:29 PM
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Re: Need to replace the Heater Core

Go ahead and resign yourself to remove the passenger fender to access the under hood heater box. Then it becomes much easier.

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old Feb 17th, 18, 03:22 PM
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Re: Need to replace the Heater Core

Quote:
Originally Posted by dukhnt View Post
I have a 1968 non/AC. The Heater core went bad yesterday..... Antifreeze everywhere.... Inside and outside the car.

I see there are numerous sizes that all apparently fit the car. Does anyone have any first hand knowledge on the correct size. I haven't taken the old one out yet.

That brings me to the second question...how difficult is this? Thanks much for the help.
What I think your first concern or question should be is how to get it out. Many have to remove the fender which is a real pain not to do any paint damage and line up. I've had a couple experts tell me they can get one out without removing the fender but again, its a huge pain. Work on the plan to remove first and know absolutely what parts you will need before buying is a good rule of thumb. When you obtain your new heater core, take it to a radiator shop and have them do a pressure check to make sure your OK.

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old Feb 17th, 18, 04:11 PM
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Re: Need to replace the Heater Core

Hmm, I've changed out a few from inside.
Drain coolant when disconnecting core hoses into drain pan outside firewall.
Push pass seat back as far as it will go.
Lay down a continuous sheet of plastic from trans tunnel to seat to toe panel at the top and over the rocker.
Unplug the resistor block above /behind the glovebox.
Remove the hoses and five speed nuts seen.
Inside wioth hands, pry out heater box - knida hard sincve you are working against the caulking and SLIGHTLY bent core nipples on engine side.
Once box loose from wall, lay with core facing up on floor.
Remove core and fix original core.
Assembly is reverse except install new clay weatherstripping on box for a good seal between box and firewall.
You should use a dab apiece of petroleum jelly on the core hoses, even if new, not a bad idea, when sliding on hoses.
Add coolant and more to fill core.

All done without removing anything other than resistor block plug.
The above works IF nipples are OE bent from OE core, If nipples bent more parallel to firewall, then it will be difficult tin removing box from firewall.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old Feb 17th, 18, 05:29 PM
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Re: Need to replace the Heater Core

Quote:
Originally Posted by Everett#2390 View Post
Hmm, I've changed out a few from inside.
Drain coolant when disconnecting core hoses into drain pan outside firewall.
Push pass seat back as far as it will go.
Lay down a continuous sheet of plastic from trans tunnel to seat to toe panel at the top and over the rocker.
Unplug the resistor block above /behind the glovebox.
Remove the hoses and five speed nuts seen.
Inside wioth hands, pry out heater box - knida hard sincve you are working against the caulking and SLIGHTLY bent core nipples on engine side.
Once box loose from wall, lay with core facing up on floor.
Remove core and fix original core.
Assembly is reverse except install new clay weatherstripping on box for a good seal between box and firewall.
You should use a dab apiece of petroleum jelly on the core hoses, even if new, not a bad idea, when sliding on hoses.
Add coolant and more to fill core.

All done without removing anything other than resistor block plug.
The above works IF nipples are OE bent from OE core, If nipples bent more parallel to firewall, then it will be difficult tin removing box from firewall.
I agree, I have changed many this way over the years.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old Feb 17th, 18, 05:54 PM
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Re: Need to replace the Heater Core

My recommendation is have your original one re-cored. That way you know it will fit.

I did the replacement myself about 10 years ago and I am no mechanic. 68, non-air car and did not have to remove the fender. Listen to guidance above. Also, if interior box looks tired now's the time to repaint and dress it up. Winter's the best time to do the work...doesn't cut into summer drive time while it's down

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old Feb 18th, 18, 03:52 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Need to replace the Heater Core

Thanks for all the help and suggestions. Much appreciated.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old Feb 19th, 18, 09:22 AM
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Re: Need to replace the Heater Core

Maybe I should correct spelling and make this a sticky?
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old Feb 19th, 18, 09:38 AM
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Re: Need to replace the Heater Core

You donít need to remove the fender to remove the heater core. Simple to pull it from the inside.

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old Feb 19th, 18, 09:40 AM
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Re: Need to replace the Heater Core

Stick it Everett.

I too learned something during this discussion. The only thing I can add is if I were accessing it from inside the cabin I would remove the passenger seat.

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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old Feb 19th, 18, 09:48 AM
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Re: Need to replace the Heater Core

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Originally Posted by Andrew69 View Post
Stick it Everett.

I too learned something during this discussion. The only thing I can add is if I were accessing it from inside the cabin I would remove the passenger seat.
And the glove box

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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old Feb 19th, 18, 01:34 PM
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Re: Need to replace the Heater Core

Removing the glove box not only gives you more room to work, but gives much better access and vision into the area.

You might also note the three control cables ... which may or may not be a problem, but will need to be contended with and managed in the process. One or more could be removed from the box if it becomes necessary.

Just realize they are there and on a 50 year old car could be crossed up with who knows what.

Another cautionary note might be that if they have console gauges there is an oil line running in the area and if it's an old plastic line it could be brittle (and even if not) you don't want to stress it into a break.

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