Pusher Fan - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old May 19th, 18, 06:05 AM Thread Starter
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Al
 
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Pusher Fan

Hey folks- needing to get a pusher fan for my 1968, stock 327 and wondering what works best. I have the stock air-conditioning and not much room for a fan. Any tips are appreciated.

Thanks,
Alan
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old May 19th, 18, 06:27 AM
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Re: Pusher Fan

if everything is stock why wont a stock mechanical fan work?
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old May 19th, 18, 06:29 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Pusher Fan

Seems to get hot in the summertime and push the temp close to 210
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old May 19th, 18, 06:50 AM
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Re: Pusher Fan

Quote:
Originally Posted by Troutslayer View Post
Seems to get hot in the summertime and push the temp close to 210
do you have a fan clutch? is it working?
how many blade fan are you using?
how old is your radiator?
I am running a 11-1 compression sb and my temp stays at 170*
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old May 19th, 18, 06:56 AM
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Re: Pusher Fan

Pusher fans tend to block the airflow through the core since they sit in front of the core. Your AC car already places the condenser in front of the radiator causing some restriction already.

Can you provide more info? Is the temp climbing when idling or when moving down the road at 60?

...Dennis

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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old May 19th, 18, 07:15 AM Thread Starter
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Al
 
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Re: Pusher Fan

Thanks guys. Let me get back to you with some additional information. Is there an easy way to test my fan clutch? Thanks
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old May 19th, 18, 07:29 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Pusher Fan

Ok - fan clutch tested and works. I have a 7 bladed stock fan & shroud. Radiator - I don't know how old it is. I purchased the car about 2 1/2 years ago. I put a new thermostat in it and have flushed out the radiator several months ago. Radiator looks stock.
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old May 19th, 18, 07:47 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Pusher Fan

Temp climbs while idling.
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old May 19th, 18, 08:54 AM
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Your not to concerned with keeping it stock right?? If not I found over the years what seems to make the biggest difference in keeping a motor cool was running a aluminum radiator. You can get them very reasonably now a days. Probably around the same as a very good pusher fan. I would also run straight water and a bottle of water wetter. I dropped 15 degrees when I switched to this. Just make sure you drain it and put in antifreeze when you store it in the winter that’s if you live in a cold area during the winter like Michigan as I do !!
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old May 19th, 18, 09:46 AM
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Re: Pusher Fan

It sounds like the fan clutch isn't working right. Even though the fan is turning at idle the clutch is probably slipping too much, not moving enough air. The first thing I would do is replace the fan clutch with a new one. A heavy duty Hayden is only about $50 or so and available everywhere. Many cooling issues have been cured with a new thermal clutch.

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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old May 19th, 18, 10:53 AM
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Re: Pusher Fan

no offense to the clutch people , but I run a straight derale HD stainless mechanical fan and I never see above 170* running a 11-1 compression engine. each to their own
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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old May 19th, 18, 11:28 AM
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No offense taken here. I ran one on my 442 worked great !😬
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old May 19th, 18, 05:16 PM
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Re: Pusher Fan

Quote:
Originally Posted by Troutslayer View Post
Temp climbs while idling.
The pusher might fix this but I'd bet it causes the engine to run hotter at hwy speeds. I would look into your initial timing and your clutch fan as already suggested. I would also have your rad core gone through before ever thinking about replacing it! Make sure everything is setup properly for an AC car as well.

...Dennis

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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old May 19th, 18, 06:46 PM
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Re: Pusher Fan

If pusher fans were a better idea, GM would have used them instead of puller fans.
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old May 20th, 18, 05:50 AM
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Re: Pusher Fan

While you may have flushed out your radiator, it may still be corroded inside, especially if it is very old and the coolant has not been maintained properly over its lifetime (who knows what former owners did). Brad is spot on concerning the aluminum radiator. My engine is 11:1 and after I changed to an aluminum radiator, no more overheating. As for the thermal fan clutch, others on this forum have mentioned issues with heavy duty fan clutches, so you might want to go with the standard model if you elect to replace it. Pusher fans are not as efficient at moving air as a puller, especially if you are trying to push through an A/C condenser first and as mentioned above, the pusher will partially block the condenser/radiator which may further exacerbate your problem.


Here is another thought. Is your vacuum advance connected to ported vacuum on your carb? If so, moving the connection to a full manifold vacuum source should be done for many reasons (you can find those on this forum) one of which is cooler running engine at idle. If you do this, you'll want to check/reset your base and total timing advance to make sure they are still within your desired limits. Your car will also run much better with this change.


One other thing you may want to check if all else fails and that is the condition of your water pump impeller. For various reasons, if in really poor shape the blades of the impeller can be nearly completely gone and the pump will not move the coolant through the system as necessary and the engine will overheat.

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