Cold Blooded - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old Mar 28th, 19, 08:55 AM Thread Starter
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Cold Blooded

Installed a AutoMeter temp gauge (sender in intake manifold) and now see what temp, according to gauge, motor runs. Dash light "works" but IDK what temp the motor was actually running at

I was able to get it up to about 140ish after a 10 min warm up and then a 10 min drive on Fwy.

Car runs fine. 180 T stat, 23" radiator, fan clutch, 5 blade, shroud

I suspect in the dog days of summer it will run hotter but seems fairly cold blooded now. Same thing with my neighbors 327 in his truck, about 140 for his also
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old Mar 28th, 19, 12:06 PM
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Re: Cold Blooded

If you have a 180* stat the engine should operate at a minimum of 180*

So either your stat is not working correctly or the gauge is wrong. I would use an infrared sensor to determine which is not right.

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old Mar 28th, 19, 12:51 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Cold Blooded

yeah stat could be opening to much....although it takes quite a while for upper hose to get warm so stat is definitely closed when engine is cold. I have a IR temp gun....exhaust manifold and T stat housing and radiator have all shown fairly cool temps compared to my other SBC although it is a 11:3 compression 383 motor. It runs 180 ish

Plugs are tan in color
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old Mar 28th, 19, 09:42 PM
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Re: Cold Blooded

Like John said. If has a 180 T-stat it should run 180 minimum after a warm up.
Something is off or not reading correctly if it doesn't run 180.

Or your heater works so good you don't need a radiator.,lol.

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old Mar 29th, 19, 03:21 AM
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The thermostat might not be closing at all. I had a truck back in the day that I did not run a thermostat in. The temps were like you are describing.

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old Mar 29th, 19, 04:50 AM
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Re: Cold Blooded

140 is too cold for the engine. You need to be at least above 160.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old Mar 29th, 19, 08:15 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Cold Blooded

The temp sender for the gauge is in a "T" fitting that is in intake manifold so it is about 1" higher than just a single sender. I doubt this would have any affect on temp reading, at least not a 20 degree difference, but wanted to add that note.

The T stat may be bad, although it is only a few months old. Heater core (read entire heater box) was replaced by PO. Radiator is a 23" and looks to be in very good condition

Oil pressure does drop about 5 psi from cold start (25+ psi) to about 20+ at idle (650 rpm) when engine is warmed up which to me is normal as engine gets to "operating temp". Increases as RPM's increase.

I will run the car for a good drive and check various positions with IR gun today.....maybe the new Autometer gauge is off or the sender is off spec. Signal wire is a one piece new wire from gauge to sender
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old Mar 29th, 19, 09:48 AM
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Re: Cold Blooded

I guess too cold is better than too hot anyway

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old Mar 29th, 19, 11:48 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Cold Blooded

Well after a long street ride the temp sits at 150 which corresponds to IR reading at sender & T stat. My guess is T stat opens to full to soon or is just stuck open. Temp does go 185 after car has been shut off after a drive which also corresponds to the IR gun at sender/T stat

Looks like gauge is right, now need to swap T stat

When driving at Fwy speeds temp gauge showed 140
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old Mar 31st, 19, 12:37 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Cold Blooded

UPDATE:

Swapped to a new 180 stat. Old one was only a few months old. It was the "fail open" type....which it did. Would explain why it took so long to warm up

After a drive the temp showed about 150 so I used IR gun to compare it to sensor. Sensor was 150. The manifold was 158 1" away (sensor is in brass T fitting). Heater hose fitting on manifold showed 158. Heater hose off of water pump shows 165.

I only have a intake manifold port for temp sensor, not one on the heads.

So depending on where temp measurement is taken it varies but on engine manifold itself directly at sensor fitting and manifold the operating temp is 158-165

I was stuck for a hr on Fwy today creeping along (read you could walk faster) and temp climbed to 210 after a hr of that kind of driving but not any hotter. Once I did get moving it quickly dropped down to 170 and stayed there

So cooling system seems to be working well
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