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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old Jan 11th, 20, 09:41 AM Thread Starter
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Heater blower

Hi hope some one can help 69 W/O Air i have no heater blower no power to the brown wire at the switch and there is power to both sides of the fuse and when i put power to the brown wire the fan works Any one know if there is anything between the Fuse and the Switch Thanks
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old Jan 11th, 20, 11:20 AM
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Re: Heater blower

Who knows how accurate some wiring diagrams are, is the one I saw from thepartguy site is they show no connector between the fuse block and the switch.

So with that said, you have power at both ends of the fuse, but do you have power at both fuse clips ?.

Another thing is on the backside of the fuse block, the fuse clip is crimped onto the brown wire and maybe there is a connection issue there ?.

You also have a crimped connector on the brown wire at the switch connector and possibly this has an issue ?.

You may have to sharpen a meter probe tip to poke through the wires insulation to see if there is power inside on the brown feed wire inside the insulation.

Maybe too someone cut the wire or it became cut from rubbing against a sharp edge and is in a spot you cannot see or got taped over at some point. You never really know sometimes what has happened on these older cars through the years.

Jim

1974 Spirit Of America Nova (being restored), 1973 Nova Custom, 1968 Chevy II (Garage Find 2012)

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old Jan 11th, 20, 11:56 AM
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Re: Heater blower

Did you check wires at the heater resistor?

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old Jan 11th, 20, 12:11 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Heater blower

Quote:
Originally Posted by SOA-Nova View Post
Who knows how accurate some wiring diagrams are, is the one I saw from thepartguy site is they show no connector between the fuse block and the switch.

So with that said, you have power at both ends of the fuse, but do you have power at both fuse clips ?.

Another thing is on the backside of the fuse block, the fuse clip is crimped onto the brown wire and maybe there is a connection issue there ?.

You also have a crimped connector on the brown wire at the switch connector and possibly this has an issue ?.

You may have to sharpen a meter probe tip to poke through the wires insulation to see if there is power inside on the brown feed wire inside the insulation.

Maybe too someone cut the wire or it became cut from rubbing against a sharp edge and is in a spot you cannot see or got taped over at some point. You never really know sometimes what has happened on these older cars through the years.

Jim

thanks Jim Gives me somethings to check and yes there is power to the fuse clips
can you tell me is there any harm in running a wire from the fuse block to the Switch ? thanks Again
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old Jan 11th, 20, 01:57 PM
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Re: Heater blower

This is what you need to sort out the heater wiring and blower operation.

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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old Jan 11th, 20, 02:15 PM
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Re: Heater blower

I have my harness out of car, the brown wire is a straight shot from the inner fuse clip to heater connector and as Jim stated, crimped to the backside of the fuse holder. You could run another wire but I would want to know where the break is. If you run another wire, leave original in place then you have made that a live wire.

The best way is disconnect battery (just to be safe), pull fuse then using a meter set to ohms, ohm out the circuit. The inner fuse post is side going to the heater, the outer fuse post is jumpered to the two fuses below it on the outside (outer post coming from battery).

Like Jim suggested, you will need something sharp like a sewing needle or pin, poke that through wire by the heater connector end, put other lead on heater connector (with it removed from heater contacts). If you have continuity then do same thing at fuse end. My guess is fuse side will be open, can't imagine someone would cut the wire but ya never know...If both sides read continuity then you do have a cut wire. Could find/fix the cut which means unraveling harness or could splice in a new wire, make sure if you do splice, it is the proper gauge wire, don't want a melt down!!!

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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old Jan 11th, 20, 02:17 PM
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Re: Heater blower

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelcel View Post
thanks Jim Gives me somethings to check and yes there is power to the fuse clips
can you tell me is there any harm in running a wire from the fuse block to the Switch ? thanks Again
I've just heard of issues with the clip that has power from the ignition switch being a good connection to the one end of the fuse and then at the other cap end on the fuse it would have power but then have a poor connection between that end and the fuse clip that would then go out to the circuit, in your case the blower switch.

If you do not want to find the real reason of your issue is then yes you could run a new wire from the fuse block to the switch but you might want to dig into your problem some more as this bypass or rerouting will require some specialized parts.

Looking at a wiring diagram for a 69, the heater fuse is only protecting that circuit and is not tied directly into anything else. There is a terminal in the fuse box labeled ACC and this supplies power just like it would with the different ignition key positions as what is happening with the heater circuit but it is on a different leg off of the fuse block and I would be hesitant of using that ACC terminal to then power the blower switch.

How I would probably do a bypass would be to get one of glass fuse taps that clips onto the fused end of the heater fuse and fuse block clip and then leave you with a 1/4" male terminal. Since this clip will fit either end of the fuse in the fuse block you MUST use the proper side that is protected by the fuse. If you do not, then if a short occurs then things will not be good and then will have a possible electrical fire.
You then need to get a 1/4" insulated female terminal to go onto the 1/4" male glass fuse tap clip and then crimp on a section of 14 gauge wire that will reach the blower switch and it's plug. I would then extract the factory brown wire and terminal out of the housing with the other wires and then buy a new terminal end that would go into that plug and lock in like factory. With the raw terminal end on the brown wire you will no longer be using is to slide over some heat shrink tubing over the exposed end so it cannot short to ground and then cable tie it back in the harness to secure it down.

Glass fuse tap I would use:



Glass fuse tap that would work BUT has less surface contact area:



I don't have a link or picture of the terminal end for in the switch end but it probably is a standard Packard type of connector.

If you do this bypass properly, you can easily remove this modification and the new wire as well as the wired past it will be protected like factory with the fuse in the fuse block.

Jim

1974 Spirit Of America Nova (being restored), 1973 Nova Custom, 1968 Chevy II (Garage Find 2012)

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