We finally got some warmer weather up here in Massachusetts, so with the aid of two space heaters, I got back in the garage this weekend to try and finish off this project.
I decided that rather than mess with trying to use a Dremel to grind a "J-shaped" notch in the original Directional Cam Canceling piece, I ordered a new one and figured I'd just swap it out.
Picture pretty much explains the problem. The new horn switch has a wire lead that has a "cam" on it that wouldn't go into the old unit, but easily locks in the new one. The next step is getting the old piece out. Need a special tool for that.
The tool I got on Amazon for less than $10.00 and its basically a press. You thread the end onto the steering wheel shaft, snug it up and start turning the wing nut clockwise which presses the horseshoe section against the cam retainer disc. Buried under the cam canceling part is a spring that allows the assembly to be moved towards the bottom of the steering column. You just need to move it about 1/4" to expose the ring clamp that is fitted into a groove on the steering shaft.
Digging the spring out of the groove is best bone with a couple of small flat blade screwdrivers. Pop one end out, then leave that screwdriver in place while you pop the other end out, then shimmy it up onto the shaft. Not very difficult to remove, but don't use pliers or anything that would overly stretch the spring or you'll have to go find a new one.
The retainer plate comes off and you should look at the ring area. Note the teeth, there's a section that has a wider open are so you know that the piece only goes on one way, matching the steering shaft.
Once you've removed the old directional signal cam piece, simply place the new one in place with the tube in the same general area. Once thats done, replace the two plates, put the spring on the shaft., and use the tool again to press the assembly back to the point where the spring can be slid down the shaft and locked in place... then remove the tool.
At this point, I inserted the horn lead into the tube and gently pushed then twisted it into the locked position.
Next I installed the MOMO hub, and tightened everything up. Next up I installed the MOMO rubber hub boot which can be lifted easily enough if you want to check the lead.
So I then threaded the wire through the center opening in the steering wheel, and added the contact ring that retains the bare horn button assembly. The lead connects to the center tab on the switch and thats all there is to wiring... its a one-wire setup.
Now it gets easy LOL... just line up the steering wheel with the hub, and insert the hex-head screws and tighten with an allen wrench. All thats left to do is apply the "SS" button, and for that, all I did was use some 3M black double-sided trim tape to ensure that it'll stay on regardless of temperature, but if need be, I can always use some goof-off to get it off.
Looks pretty good huh? LOL... I'm very happy with the look and feel. Actually took the beast out for a ride after a good warmup and the wheel feels so much better than the skinny bus-like stocker. When I get my quick-steering box installed its going to be great!
I tried to get pix of all the important steps, but sure... I might've missed something LOL, so feel free to ask questions. Maybe the mods will consider this as a "Sticky" candidate... I did the thread to help others who might be thinking about installing an aftermarket wheel like a MOMO, Nardi, or one of the many others available. Hope you enjoyed the adventure!
'69 LeMans Blue Coupe, White Interior, 030" over 454, Super T10 4-Speed, Holley 4150, Pertronix Ignition
CompCams XS274S, 781 Oval Port Heads, PYPES Full 3" SS Exhaust, Hooker Comp Headers, Wilwood Calipers/MC
JGC Steering Box, Helix Uppers/Lowers, ProForged BJs, SpeedHut Gauges, MOMO Steering Wheel, Budnik 17" Wheels