RS headlight relays - Team Camaro Tech
 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old Aug 9th, 18, 06:50 AM Thread Starter
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Brad
 
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Location: Greenfield, WI
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RS headlight relays

Does anybody know what the current draw should be on the relay coils? When the key is in the accessory or run position the coils are energized. I measure 2.4A from the battery terminal to the cable (cable disconnected) and this seems excessive to me. If I would want to listen to the radio with the car not running that would have a pretty good drain on the battery.
I checked the coil resistance and they read about 48 Ohms each so it seems like they are OK because they are all the same.
I unplugged the connector under the dash and the current draw went to practically zero so it does seem like it's the coils that are sucking 2.4A. Is this right?

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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old Aug 9th, 18, 01:21 PM
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Lee
 
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Re: RS headlight relays

I would have expected only about a 0.5A drop in current after disconnecting the under dash connector in that situation. With the light switch off and key in run position only R2 and R3 relays are energized.

You could try taking relay R1 and swapping it with R2 and R3 to see if that changes anything.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old Aug 9th, 18, 06:17 PM Thread Starter
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Brad
 
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Re: RS headlight relays

With it disconnected there is only about 11mA draw, probably the radio memory or something like that. The 2.4A is with it connected and the key on, with the relays energized. That just seems like a lot to me just to pull in a couple of coils.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old Aug 9th, 18, 06:42 PM
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Lee
 
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Re: RS headlight relays

Yes, I think we both agree on that point, but I don't think the 2.4A current draw is going through the under dash connector. More likely the contacts on either relay R2 or R3 are sticking which can cause a high current path through the horn relay when R2 and R3 are energized but when these relays are not energized (which happens when you unplug the under dash connector) then one of the relays opens and the high current path is no longer present. So swapping the relays around may help you determine which one is bad.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old Aug 9th, 18, 08:15 PM Thread Starter
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Brad
 
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Re: RS headlight relays

OK, thanks for the clarification. I understand now. Maybe I can just do a continuity check on the power tabs for the contacts, or easier yet I can unplug the power connectors from the relays and see if the big draw goes away. Or even easier I can unplug the connector under the dash and put the ammeter between the connector halves and check if the big draw goes away. If it does I can try and determine which relay contacts are bad.

Last time I checked the relays only came as a complete set instead of individually. Is this still the case?

Thanks again for the help.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old Aug 9th, 18, 08:54 PM
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Lee
 
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Re: RS headlight relays

You can buy the relays individually, part# 33-179759.

Removing the relays one at a time sounds like the best bet. Using the ammeter between the connector halves won't work unless you also jumper over the ground return on the same connector halves. Besides that would only show you the current draw of the relay coils and since you already measured the ohms of the coils you already know they are good. It would be better to monitor the current going through the horn relay or the circuit breaker for the headlight doors.
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