Dash and Firewall Install Sequence - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old Jan 4th, 14, 12:18 PM Thread Starter
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Dash and Firewall Install Sequence

I am finally starting to install my interior and would like to know a detailed install sequence as I don't recall the exact order of my disassembly and I am converting from a column shift automatic with no gauges to a manual 4 speed on the floor with console and gauges.

Here is the present state of the car.

All info would be greatly appreciated.


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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old Jan 4th, 14, 12:32 PM
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Re: Dash and Firewall Install Sequence

Sound deadener, firewall pad, Kick panels, astro ducts, brake pedal support, defroster duct, heater with controls, main electrical harness, dash cluster, e-brake, radio, dash pad, ash tray, glove box door, glove box. Then work on rockers, carpet and console, I think that is it test fit everything, make sure all electrical components are working before closing up the dash pad.
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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old Jan 4th, 14, 12:45 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Dash and Firewall Install Sequence

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Originally Posted by KevinW View Post
Sound deadener, firewall pad, Kick panels, astro ducts, brake pedal support, defroster duct, heater with controls, main electrical harness, dash cluster, e-brake, radio, dash pad, ash tray, glove box door, glove box. Then work on rockers, carpet and console, I think that is it test fit everything, make sure all electrical components are working before closing up the dash pad.
Thanks Kevin. That is exactly the info I was looking for. Looking like I will have to go back and remove a few things I already installed.

Not too bad only these parts have been installed so far.








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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old Jan 4th, 14, 06:08 PM
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Re: Dash and Firewall Install Sequence

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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old Jan 4th, 14, 08:17 PM
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Re: Dash and Firewall Install Sequence

The e-brake cable can stay, remove the main harness, accel and speedo cable, they will make the firewall pad and carpet install much harder. Install the speedo cable just before you install the dash cluster. The accel pedal is installed after carpet is in.

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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old Jan 4th, 14, 09:15 PM
 
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Re: Dash and Firewall Install Sequence

Kevin, what is the reason to install the Kick Panels that early in the process? I had assumed they go in after the carpet to cover the edge of the carpet?
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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old Jan 5th, 14, 02:59 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Dash and Firewall Install Sequence

Mocked up the firewall pad and it fits pretty good considering I heard they don't fit very well. I have it bolted in right now while I mock up everything else. Once I test fit everything and make sure that everything fits correctly I will install it with the rubber mounting fasteners. The kit comes with these hard plastic units. They look quite different than the originals. So far very minimal trimming and cutting. All of the holes line up in the correct spots as well. The only hole that was not already cut or perforated was the speedo cable. Also the hole for the accelerator rod does not line up perfectly. I had to modify slightly.


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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old Jan 5th, 14, 06:17 AM
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Re: Dash and Firewall Install Sequence

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Originally Posted by alversonk View Post
Kevin, what is the reason to install the Kick Panels that early in the process? I had assumed they go in after the carpet to cover the edge of the carpet?
The kick panels are a pain to install, you need to install them first so you have room to work (remember to replace the Dum-Dum putty for a good seal). Pass side is "almost" impossible with the heater installed. By doing them early, you save yourself a bunch of skinned knuckles and cursing. The carpet is "tucked" under the kick panels (and firewall pad) later.

Certain other things are more flexible, like the ebrake, once the firewall pad and drivers kick panel is done, the ebrake can go in, or you can wait until carpet is done, since that is easy to install.

There are some little things that I did not mention, but get installed during the main electric harness step. high beam switch, flasher that gets mounted to the dash support, ebrake light, plug from main to rear harness, ground leads, basically anything that gets plugged in or screwed to the body frame.

Some tips, NOW is the time to take a close look at the rubber seals for the kick panel vents, defroster duct, heater box and astro vents! Replace them with weather resistant rubber before you install them. Finding out later that they are letting in all this air flow is very time consuming to replace later. I used sheet rubber/foam goods from Mcmaster and cut my own, the repro kits are a joke.

Also inspect your astro vents for any cracked or broken lines, now is the time to fix or replace these too! And replace the chrome astro vent louvers too

Kevin


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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old Jan 5th, 14, 06:39 AM
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Re: Dash and Firewall Install Sequence

It's easier to R&R the LH kick without the e-brake cable protruding.

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post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old Jan 5th, 14, 08:39 AM
 
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Re: Dash and Firewall Install Sequence

Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinW View Post
The kick panels are a pain to install, you need to install them first so you have room to work (remember to replace the Dum-Dum putty for a good seal). Pass side is "almost" impossible with the heater installed. By doing them early, you save yourself a bunch of skinned knuckles and cursing. The carpet is "tucked" under the kick panels (and firewall pad) later.

Certain other things are more flexible, like the ebrake, once the firewall pad and drivers kick panel is done, the ebrake can go in, or you can wait until carpet is done, since that is easy to install.

There are some little things that I did not mention, but get installed during the main electric harness step. high beam switch, flasher that gets mounted to the dash support, ebrake light, plug from main to rear harness, ground leads, basically anything that gets plugged in or screwed to the body frame.

Some tips, NOW is the time to take a close look at the rubber seals for the kick panel vents, defroster duct, heater box and astro vents! Replace them with weather resistant rubber before you install them. Finding out later that they are letting in all this air flow is very time consuming to replace later. I used sheet rubber/foam goods from Mcmaster and cut my own, the repro kits are a joke.

Also inspect your astro vents for any cracked or broken lines, now is the time to fix or replace these too! And replace the chrome astro vent louvers too
Thank you! The more I thought about the order you described the more the kick panel early in the order made sense. My knuckles thank you!
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post #11 of 28 (permalink) Old Jan 5th, 14, 09:42 AM
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Re: Dash and Firewall Install Sequence

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sauron67MM View Post
It's easier to R&R the LH kick without the e-brake cable protruding.
You are probably right on that one, I do remember a little cursing to get that installed with it protruding. thanks! I did trim the water diversion ridges a little on the inner portion of the kick panel to make sliding the kick panel into the vent hole a little easier.

Kevin


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post #12 of 28 (permalink) Old Jan 5th, 14, 10:00 AM
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Re: Dash and Firewall Install Sequence

Make Sure you install the Upper Speedo Cable Clip thats located about 2" to the passenger side of the speedo cable grommet, it is impossible to bend the tabs over once the pad is installed. You will also have to modify the repo clips around a 3/8" bolt so they hold the cable tite.
Upper defrost duct should be 1 of the first things in next. You should also drill and install the oil line grommet.
The repo pad soft rubber retainers are junk also, as are the hard plastic ones, they just shatter. I have had some luck lubricating the hard retainers and then using a piece of wooden dowel and a hammer to drive them in place. Have extras as they break easily. The repo soft ones are just as bad in that they pull out and dont hold the mat properly.

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post #13 of 28 (permalink) Old Jan 5th, 14, 10:28 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Dash and Firewall Install Sequence

Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinW View Post
The kick panels are a pain to install, you need to install them first so you have room to work (remember to replace the Dum-Dum putty for a good seal). Pass side is "almost" impossible with the heater installed. By doing them early, you save yourself a bunch of skinned knuckles and cursing. The carpet is "tucked" under the kick panels (and firewall pad) later.

Certain other things are more flexible, like the ebrake, once the firewall pad and drivers kick panel is done, the ebrake can go in, or you can wait until carpet is done, since that is easy to install.

There are some little things that I did not mention, but get installed during the main electric harness step. high beam switch, flasher that gets mounted to the dash support, ebrake light, plug from main to rear harness, ground leads, basically anything that gets plugged in or screwed to the body frame.

Some tips, NOW is the time to take a close look at the rubber seals for the kick panel vents, defroster duct, heater box and astro vents! Replace them with weather resistant rubber before you install them. Finding out later that they are letting in all this air flow is very time consuming to replace later. I used sheet rubber/foam goods from Mcmaster and cut my own, the repro kits are a joke.

Also inspect your astro vents for any cracked or broken lines, now is the time to fix or replace these too! And replace the chrome astro vent louvers too
Thanks Kevin, this is all great info. At what point did you install the Steering column and pedal assembly.

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post #14 of 28 (permalink) Old Jan 5th, 14, 10:33 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Dash and Firewall Install Sequence

Quote:
Originally Posted by rszmjt View Post
Make Sure you install the Upper Speedo Cable Clip thats located about 2" to the passenger side of the speedo cable grommet, it is impossible to bend the tabs over once the pad is installed. You will also have to modify the repo clips around a 3/8" bolt so they hold the cable tite.
Upper defrost duct should be 1 of the first things in next. You should also drill and install the oil line grommet.
The repo pad soft rubber retainers are junk also, as are the hard plastic ones, they just shatter. I have had some luck lubricating the hard retainers and then using a piece of wooden dowel and a hammer to drive them in place. Have extras as they break easily. The repo soft ones are just as bad in that they pull out and dont hold the mat properly.
Great advice Mike. I plan on following your tips next. I have ordered the speedo clips as I forgot about them. I also I have about 4 original rubber retainers. Do you recall how many I need. Heart Beat City has some rubber units for sale.

http://www.heartbeatcitycamaro.com/s...967-1968-1969/

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post #15 of 28 (permalink) Old Jan 5th, 14, 07:00 PM
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Re: Dash and Firewall Install Sequence

Quote:
Originally Posted by 69z28freak View Post
Thanks Kevin, this is all great info. At what point did you install the Steering column and pedal assembly.
You can install the pedals along with the bracket (just don't hook them up until after the carpet is done, so you can wire them up out of the way). Steering column can be after the carpet too, there are pros and cons to either way.

Kevin


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