I pulled all the stuff that needed to go into the interior through the old gas pedal hole. You have to pull a few connectors apart then re-ssemble to get everything through but that is a simple enough procedure.
I wanted a clean install and was thinking it would be easier if I had a bulkhead connector on the firewall. The ECM and Fuse box will be installed in the battery tray. Now that I think about it, How many wires are needed in the interior ??? I may not need a bulkhead connector at all.:clonk:
Only wires that go inside are pedal and OBD. Then you may have the tach wire which you can go thru the pedal hole or use the factory bulkhead connector as a pass thru.
I was trying to figure out how to hide the wires going to the ECM and fuse box. How do I get to the passenger fender (under fenderwell) and to battery tray. I was trying to avoid routing across firewall/cowl area from engine side.
Under heater box and pull the fuse box and ECM connectors through inner fender,
There is not enough room for both the fuse box and the ECM in the battery tray. I mount the ECM to the inner fender behind the battery tray (between the batt tray and fender) then the fuse box in the battery tray.
There are no holes or tabs on the fuse box to mount it. I've found the best method is industrial strength 2" Velcro.
Thanks John. I will be running vintage air. So the passenger side of firewall is somewhat smooth, I added a plate. Here is what I had planned for the fuse box and ECM. Again, I'm trying to avoid running any wire from engine to passenger side on firewall. I would love to hide the wires.
if you keep them low on the firewall you don't really see them. I would think about re-wrapping them with power braid instead of the plastic split loom
I use the Ironworks bracket to mount the ECM up under the fender above the battery box where it also clears the front cocktail shaker. I fabricated a bracket to mount the fuse block to the core support above the battery tray. The Vaporworx controller mounts to the botttom of the bracket. You can split the fuse block apart and bolt the bottom shell to the bracket. It is tight with the diagonal fender brace but it will fit right in there. The Entropy fan controller also mounts to the core support in the same area.
I use the Ironworks bracket to mount the ECM up under the fender above the battery box. I fabricate a bracket to mount the fuse block to the core support above the battery tray. The Vaporworx controller mounts to the botttom of the bracket. You can split the fuse block apart and bolt the bottom shell to the bracket. It is tight with the diagonal fender brace but it will fit right in there. The Entropy fan controller also mounts to the core support in the same area.
I see a place called Scarebird has a bracket. Looks nice but its for 2nd gens. I wonder if it would work though. I'm also wondering if the firewall would flex a little ?? Here is a thread I found on it: http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=67966.0
I see a place called Scarebird has a bracket. Looks nice but its for 2nd gens. I wonder if it would work though. I'm also wondering if the firewall would flex a little ?? Here is a thread I found on it: Any demand for a bolt in LS3 DBW accel pedal bracket?
I've used the bracket that comes on the pedal and picked up one hole on the column plate and then through bolted with spacers between the bracket and firewall. Works fine. I ordered the Ironworks bracket for the 68 I'm doing for $55. I talked to Ironworks and was told it bolts in using the column plate bolt holes.
I used the Ironworks pedal bracket. Not real happy with it. It does use the master cylinder bolts and the column plate bolt holes for attachment. Problem is the column plate has a rib in it that causes the bracket to push out and not sit flush with firewall. This also allows movement in pedal side of bracket while depressing pedal. Not much but more than I liked. The pedal does end up in a decent location in relation to brake but sits a little low and will hit floor if you have installed sound deadner plus mass backed carpet and floor mats.
The master cylinder studs are welded to the clutch/brake pedal mount that bolts to the dash and the 4 studs go through the firewall and hold the MC.
It would have to sandwich between the pedal bracket and then the bolts holes for the brake pedal bracket would be out as well as the studs through the firewall would be too short to bolt the MC up.
Also I believe of bolted to the MC bolts the mount would block the steering column hole in the firewall.
The Ironworks bracket I ordered will be here tomorrow. I post up how it attaches and works.
The way the guy did it on lateral G works fine I've done it that way before but I just use the spacers and through bolts as opposed to welding them on to the firewall.
Yes you have to remove the master cylinder and brake pedal assembly. I was doing a frame off so no big deal. Yes a PITA for retrofit. I don't have a clutch master but I think my studs would be long enough.
This was the first time I used this bracket. Not sure I will again... I have the DSE bracket and Corvette pedal in my LSA 69.
My GMPP harness just arrived today. I looked at the pedal bracket. Sure seems like big spacers will be needed if you want to use this thing. My initial impression is I don't like it. I will play with it a little more and decide which way to go.
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