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Old Sep 20th, 19, 07:22 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Holley Carb question

I'm new to the forum, and I have a 71 Z28 with a Holley carb 3989021. The smog mess has been removed before I bought the car. I bought it back in July, and I'm just now finding time to go through it. I took it out the other day and found its really bogging down coming out of the hole. Replaced the plugs, added some octane booster and cleaned up the carb. Still, no change. My next step is to replace the plug wires and dist cap, but before that I noticed a wire harness with a white connector on the end of it, laying on the intake. Looking around where it may be plugged into, it fit into the front of the driver's side of the carb.

Question: What's the wire harness for, and why does it plug into the carb? Is it supplying power to the choke?

(sorry for the stupidity on this....just in a learning phase on this '71)

Newt
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Old Sep 20th, 19, 07:39 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Re: Holley Carb question

You might want to check out your initial timing before suspecting a carburetor problem. In fact, advancing the timing a few degrees will do a lot for low end power. Also make sure the advance mechanism in the distributor is working correctly, and I'm not talking about the vacuum advance here.

As for the wire, it has little to do with engine power, only with idle and making the engine shut down without running on after the key is shut off.
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Old Sep 20th, 19, 08:14 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Re: Holley Carb question

Check timing before changing anything. Booster is a waste made to help stop detonation under load. Wont do anything to help bog.

Auto or manual transmission?
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Old Sep 20th, 19, 08:17 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Re: Holley Carb question

4 speed. M21
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Old Sep 20th, 19, 11:03 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Looks like a high idle for air conditioning, the wire and set up that is.
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Old Sep 20th, 19, 11:08 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Re: Holley Carb question

Rehashing everything said so far. Timing offers same advantages and shares symptoms of problems as the carb does. Timing is easiest to check and change.

As Dyno John suggested verify the weights swing free (not rusted in place) and are still held in check by springs Have not rusted in two or fallen off). The weight platfom that the weights sit on should also move in response to changing vacuum from the motor. WD-40 is your friend.

The Anti-dieseling Solenoid was part of the car's emission equipment back in the smog era The carb was running so lean that it would run on (rotating in reverse of the normal rotation) from gas spilling into the intake with throttle plates only partly closed. That solenoid allows the throttle blades to fully close when you turn off the key.

While looking for a source of a bog look to the usual suspects. Too large a cfm cab for your application, or a modified carb (say a screw in the slot for the secondary throttle blades). Usually a bog is more carb than the car needs for the RPM. My favorite fix for this issue was steeper rear gears (you probably have a 2.73 or a 3.8 under there now, with a 3.73/4.56 making a noticeable improvement in acceleration).

And like John said octane has no bearing on power. It has no affect on how the car runs at all. It can save you if you get into detonation but unless you changed something that shouldn't be an issue. Octane is fixed when you build the motor;Though adding a supercharger or a turbo can change that to where you need more octain.

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Old Sep 22nd, 19, 07:13 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Re: Holley Carb question

accelerator pump adjustment or replace
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