New to Post-changing heads on 93' 3.4 ltr. - Team Camaro Tech
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Old Aug 26th, 07, 01:32 PM   #1 (permalink)
Join Date: Aug 2007
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New to Post-changing heads on 93' 3.4 ltr.

Hello-I'm new to your post. I've go water in the oil and fear that I've either got a gasket leak or worse yet cracked head. I just recently bought the car with about 150 thou. on the OD. I haven't bought a chilton's on this yet, but am concerned about the torque specs. on the the head and then MOST concerned about adjusting the rocker arms and such when I go back with the build-up. Any pointers or advice would greatly be appreciated. I have done work like this before on an straight six 250 inline Nova with the "run down then wait until you hear the motor stabilze and then the quarter turn approach after that approach." I just wanted to here from some other folks what I might be up against or pointers to steer me in the right direction. Again-I appreciate any and all advice and look forward to being a part of this SUPER forum.---Boz

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Old Aug 26th, 07, 04:14 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Re: New to Post-changing heads on 93' 3.4 ltr.

you can actually get torque specs at for just about anything...pretty helpful if you dont want to buy the book...also, adjusting the rockers is pretty easy...tighten the rocker nut down until you get the push rod just tight enough to stop up and down movement...then turn 90 degrees...this adjustment is done on the base circle of the cam...(remember this)...make sure to bring the head to a machine shop and have it pressure tested and checked for may be able to look for cracks before taking it to the shop by inspecting the "clean" cylinder closely...look around valve ports especially...hope this helps...let us know...
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Old Sep 4th, 07, 03:57 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Re: New to Post-changing heads on 93' 3.4 ltr.

Thanks for the help kustomwerker,
These are a couple of things I've come across on the 3.4. After taking the valve covers off I noticed that there were about 4 to 5 threads exposed from the top of the nuts holding down the rocker arms-nothing wrong with that one, but what I then saw has me worried. On the studs themselves it appears that someone (factory?) took a small center punch and knocked down the treads in two areas 7 and 8 o'clock positions and it cut into the top of the nut as well. In your opion was this done from the factory? I though that these were of the self-locking nut variety and that if they worked loose to just replace with new. I've done stuff like this on the bottom of a lawn mower, but would never consider doing this on any car.

Okay---the exhaust manifold (6 bolts ea.) on the drivers side head. I was able to remove them and then pull the head, but I don't have as much clearance on the pass. side. I tried to bring the stubborn A/C Compressor forward, but without too much luck. After seeing that there is alot of pressure (possibly frozen up) on the pass. exhaust bolts I came across on that bank I decided to spray it down again and am contimplating another avenue. I'm thinking about jacking the car up and removing the exhaust pipe flang bolts from the exhaust manifold and then lifting the head and exhaust mainifold out as one unit. I can then either seperate them before taking them in or leaving it to the fellow that is either going to true bar/refurbish the heads with new valves at that point.----Give me your opinion on this.----Respectfully Boz
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Old Sep 9th, 07, 11:27 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Re: New to Post-changing heads on 93' 3.4 ltr.

I have has several of those engines break head bolts. Then the head gasket leaks.
If the heads will come off with the exhaust on, that typically is easiest.
68 Dana 302, 68 rs 327 daily driver/family car, 71 rs, track car/ driver, 68 firebird 400, 70 formula 400, 73 type LT, 98 TA, 2 goofy kids and an incredible wife.
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