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IMG_0948.JPG This is my solid lifter that began tapping then knocking in about 4 Minutes before I could get it parked. got 1400 miles on the engine. I Drained the oil and strained it, no large flakes ,but a glittery tint to it . Checked the lift on the camshaft lobe and to my surprise it was only off by .002 .. Whats the best bet replacing just the lifter and crossing my fingers or new cam and lifters all the way around ? and is there any thing else I need to check to prevent this ? Not sure what caused it.Faulty parts..incorrect install..?? I have good oil pressure.
 

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Sooner than later, new cam and lifters.

The metal on the cam lobe didn't harden, so just gonna wear faster now.

You can get by just switching out lifter, but won't last.
 

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That's the option I was leaning towards. It was a comp xs274s.great performance on the street.. kind of leery of getting another comp though, had issues once before this time, it was the xs282s. never seen one dish out that deep , that fast ....Thanks for the input !
 

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Basically all no roller cams have this problem, did you use break in oil? It has a higher zinc content, new modern oils don't have this. Research cam lobe failure and zinc oil and you will get tons of hits.

If you already knew this (not sure, some folks still don't) then it could be cam failure, or too strong springs (many suggest using your old worn out springs for break in before changing to your new springs.)
Or, you could have tightened the lifters down to much on that lobe.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I knew about the zinc and had used lucas break in oil with zinc for break in and also added 1 bottle in it when I changed the oil. Also when I broke it in I used some 1.3 rockers I borrowed from a buddy, although that was the first time I used that method, he had suggested that way because i had purchased some new heads already assembled. Ive seen break in rocker arms but never knew the ratio ,I hope that wasn't too much or not enough. I guess I know what i'll be asking Santa for now ! Lol Thanks for the info .. I see how only the outside is hardened and once its penetrated its actually "soft" after doing a bunch of reading ....Thanks Again !
 

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Sooner than later, new cam and lifters.

The metal on the cam lobe didn't harden, so just gonna wear faster now.

You can get by just switching out lifter, but won't last.
Totally agree, but suggest rebuild since the glitter has circulated through all of the oil passages, bearings, etc.

I had the same problem last year and shut her down pretty quickly. The main and rod bearings were slightly scored, as were the cylinder walls. I got by with a hone and went retro roller in the rebuild. JMO.
 

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You need to replace the cam and the lifters. If you replace the lifter, you will replace it as soon as you start the engine again. There is no need to rebuild the entire engine. Drain the oil, remove the existing oil filter and install a new one. Add new oil, prime the engine prior to start up and you should be good to go.

A new flat tappet cam and lifters will run you around $300 dollars. A retro roller will run you about $900 but will eliminate this problem in the future.

That failure was caused by lack of zinc in the oil. The automotive manufacturers and the oil companies will not own up to this problem as they would be open to litigation for repairs. The government mandated the removal of zinc in the oil and thats why the manufacturers have been installing roller cams since the 80's.

You should run break-in lube (additional zinc) with every oil change in a flat tappet cam. This is not required with a roller.

Good luck with your repair.

Mike
 

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If the motor is a junk 2 bolt main with cast crank and pistons that you just want to live a couple more years. Go ahead and just replace the cam and lifters. If it's more than that or you want it to live for many more years. Tear it down and get all the metal out of it. :beers:
 

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After losing 1 solid lifter cam lobe after 8700 miles, I went roller. Today's FT cams have useless metal and are not hardened as well as they were in the good ol days. Plus today's spring pressures are higher and the low ppm of ZDDP will kill any FT cam.
 

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If I can stagger into the discussion...
I once had an auto trans w/ metalflake in the oil. They said replace/rebuild the trans, the TC, flush everything. Or best, replace all of it.
Same story w/ shiny in the PS fluid.
Seems like flake in the oil is death.
 

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If I can stagger into the discussion...
I once had an auto trans w/ metalflake in the oil. They said replace/rebuild the trans, the TC, flush everything. Or best, replace all of it.
Same story w/ shiny in the PS fluid.
Seems like flake in the oil is death.

so you had shineys ??? what did you do ??
 
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