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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
if I change my original alternator on my 67 camaro to a 100 amp can I use the existing wiring. I will be using the original voltage regulator.THE ALTERNATOR I HAVE DOESN'T HAVE A INTERNAL REGULATOR the wiring will fit just like the original 63 amp.......thanks for
any advice.........james:hurray:
 

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If you change to a 100 amp alternator you won't be needing your regulator ;)
The CS and SI 100 amp units are internal regulated.

As far as the wiring, depends on how you use it.
If - you leave it intact and only use the original power draw on the original circuits, then things will be just fine.
If plan on adding something to the original wiring that has an increased current draw - like a high power amp or lights - to the original radio feed through the switch, then you will run into melted wiring and other bad things :eek:

Any additional loads or high draw accessories you add should have a dedicated circuit run to supply them.
The circuit should be tapped from a primary power feed off the battery and run through the necessary junction blocks and installed with proper rated fusing.

Hope this helps
 

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Here's a good tech ref...

http://www.camaros.net/techref/ftecref14.html

I did mine for the sake of high power headlights. Definitely get updated wiring if you're going to do something like that. I got a kit from Painless I think... came with the harness, relays, etc. Made for an easy H4 headlight upgrade.

~Bob
 

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I have a 100 amp alt. with most of the original wiring still intact, not all. This was done prior to me. I am in the process of adding dual elec. radiator fans (big power draw). With all the new access. now days it really taxes the elec. system which puts a tremendous load on the sytem. Go to www.madelectrical.com, go to the tech section and then go to: New System. There is a lot of good factual info with pics of the original wiring system and pics of their new system. The new system takes the load off of all the access. going through the small wiring and horn relay. I have just purchased the New System so have not been able to try it out yet. But you will have brighter headlights and less strain and voltage loss on your system. As far as your question, probably. But if you are looking at increasing the efficiency and performance of your whole elect. system consider this change. Mark (Mad Electrical) is hard to get a hold of and I can see why.
 

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No need to touch / cut or move any wires. I just installed this alt yesterday http://www.4alterstart.com/pages/st...p://www.4alterstart.com/highoutputalternators It's a nice unit and it's plug and play. Before at idle my old 60A alt only put out 25A at idle. With the car running, lights on, and heater on the car called for 42A. So what was happening was my voltage dropped to 11.9V. The lights dimmed. With the new alt I can turn on the same things and the alt was keeping up. I now have 42A at idle and my volts are 14.2. Something to look into, instead of doing the whole conversion changing wires around.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks For Your Advice.......james, The Alternator That I Bought Doesn't Have The Internal Regulator
 

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Please talk to Mark at Mad Electrical. I disagree with MNM. I too also added a new AM volt meter and seemed to keep up and voltage reading at 14 with my Proform 100. But it is taxing on your whole elect. system. Your lights and everything are run through the horn relay and the wiring are not up to snuff. That is why your lights and dash lights would be dim, not like todays lighting. Every accessory is pulling through the horn relay. If you plan on adding elect. fuel pump, electric fans, big output stereo, HEI, aftermaarket a/c etc. It all causes a voltage drop. Why are so many people suggesting about adding relays? It's because they don't draw alot of elect., but delivers full power. Mark will correct my mistakes and set you up so that you are happy.
 

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Please talk to Mark at Mad Electrical. I disagree with MNM. I too also added a new AM volt meter and seemed to keep up and voltage reading at 14 with my Proform 100. But it is taxing on your whole elect. system. Your lights and everything are run through the horn relay and the wiring are not up to snuff. That is why your lights and dash lights would be dim, not like todays lighting. Every accessory is pulling through the horn relay. If you plan on adding elect. fuel pump, electric fans, big output stereo, HEI, aftermaarket a/c etc. It all causes a voltage drop. Why are so many people suggesting about adding relays? It's because they don't draw alot of elect., but delivers full power. Mark will correct my mistakes and set you up so that you are happy.
What do you disagree about? Maybe I'll explain better. It puts out the amperage needed and uses the external regulator. My volts stay at 14.4 all the time. Before I did the relay conversion the lights would dim with nothing on. With the relay conversion and the heater on they would dim. It would only dim because the alt only puts out 25A at idle. My old alt just wasn't putting out the amps. Take an amp reading at the alt with light and heater on. It takes 42amps, atleast in my case to keep up. 9A for the MSD and batt, 15A for the lights and 17A when the heater is on.
 

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As was pointed out, rewound high output EXTERNAL REGULATED alternators are in fact available. They do not REQUIRE any changes to our cars wiring.

But, at a minimum I'd suggest a second 10 gauge wire be run (in parallel with the one in the original harness) from the alternators output stud to one of the screw terminals on the horn relay.
 

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Jim
Why do you think he would disagree? It's a sweet setup.
 

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Jim
Why do you think he would disagree? It's a sweet setup.
I have no idea...

The only power that runs "through" the horn relay is the current drawn by blowing the horn.

The tab and 2 screws on the horn relay are also used as a "distribution block" for primary power throughout the car, but this is a sizeable peice of steel and has no resistance or power loss. It's just a convenient place to connect stuff.

All the primary power leads on our cars are 10 gauge from the factory, and there are certainly some current limits there, particularly with the single 10 gauge wire feeding the main fusebox (if lots of extra accessories are added that are pulling power off the fusebox itself, it's not a problem with the designed load.)

INHO, in a firstgen with basically stock wiring, the horn relay is by far the best and most logical place to pull power for "extra" accessories from, and if a "bigger" alternator is added, it's the most logical place to deliver that power.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
for power can you use either of the screws on the horn relay to hook up fan relays.. or to run a wire from alternator to the horn relay ? does anyone know the color of the low beam and high beam wires ? I want to put a couple relays going to the lights, thanks
 

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for power can you use either of the screws on the horn relay to hook up fan relays.. or to run a wire from alternator to the horn relay ? does anyone know the color of the low beam and high beam wires ? I want to put a couple relays going to the lights, thanks
Get a chassis manual, all the factory wiring diagrams are in it. I installed the mad electical full power kit along with a 100 amp internally regulated alt. and I'm verry happy with the system. I have loads of power for my 1000 watt system, msd ,elec fan etc. I used to suffer hot start problems, but not anymore also my headlights are WAY brighter with the relays than my friends' camaros. Go to mad electical web site they have some good info there. Other than keeping your Camaro original looking there is no benifit to keeping the old mechanical voltage regulator, and anything over 60 amps may hurt it. Step up to new technology with a solid state internal voltage reg. the conversion is easy.
 
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