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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello -

I recently replaced my pinion yoke. I used a new nut and washer, a dab of silicone gasket sealer on the splines, and red loctite on the threads. I torqued to 150ft lbs and everything worked fine. (Thank you to Big Gear Head) Drove well and I am certain I did not change the pre-load. Problem is that now my pinion seal is just slightly leaking so I have a few questions:

1) Will I be able to loosen the pinion nut without heat using an impact? I'm concerned about heating the nut near the gear oil. The loctite tube says it requires heating to 500F to break down.

2) What is the best way to correctly remove and especially install the seal so it is straight? Is there a special tool?

I can't believe I did such a bonehead move as to not replace the seal when I had it apart! :(

Thank you again.

Hynek
 

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You should be able to repeat all using an impact to remove nut. I am sure you did not mess with bearing preload unless you have a 3/4 drive impact. I would R&R yoke and install new seal, examine the yoke area to see if there is a grove in it? Clean up with some fine emory cloth and repeat what you did before with new nut, sealer on spline and loctite if you wish, Go slow at you are tightening nut, feel for your orginal bearing preload, you should be able to turn snuggly but easy. Quit there.
Installing seal is easy , just go straight and tap in all way around, there is a tool for this but many of us dont have that access.
 

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Just don't drive the seal all the way in. The seal that is available for the 12 bolt car rear end is actually a 12 bolt truck seal and sometimes it will contact the outer pinion bearing if you drive it all the way in. Leave it out about 1/16 to 1/8 inch. Be sure that you use sealant around the seal before you drive it in. The original 12 bolt car pinion seal is no longer available.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Don and Freddie -

Once again thank you for the excellent information!

Best Regards.

Hynek
 
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