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12 Bolt Rear - Black Powder Coat Finish or Black Paint?

Posted in Paint and Body Section as well.

Hello guys,

Looking for some guidance. I have a 12-bolt rear with the axles and bearings out. I want to give it a good finish before re-installing the new bearings and axles and installing in the car. The ring and pinion and the posi unit are still in. I plan on rag backing the ends and then sand blast all the grime and old paint off.

After that I want to paint it or powder coat it. I have local guys that can do either. My question is that if I powder coat (which requires a heat treatment to melt the power app) do I risk damaging and components in the housing? The powder coating is a better finish but if the heat will raise any issue then I will go for the paint.

Any thought on this? Thanks.

John
[email protected]


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67' SS Convertible Camaro
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Pennsylvania
 

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I would powder coat it. If you want something that is durable this is the only way to go. A friend of mine who restores cars powder coats everything. He says it is cheaper over the long haul to powder coat than to strip it yourself and prep it for paint then purchase materials. Next project I do I will powder coat everything that can be unbolted. By the way the powder coating place should sand blast it for you.

Steve R.
 

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The Eastwood company, makes an epoxy based product, called chassis black. I've used it on a couple of subframes, and it has held up very well.
 

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The Eastwood company, makes an epoxy based product, called chassis black. I've used it on a couple of subframes, and it has held up very well.
 

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If you can, Id get it powdered also. I had a bunch of powder coating done for my car.

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67 Camaro SS Conv.
70 Challenger R/T Conv.
 

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I have used POR-15 which is VERY durable. What is the answer to whether to remove the ring/pinion or not due to the heat process?
 

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There are axle seals that will most likely not take the heat. If you are going to powder coat them I would remove all the innars. The POR-15 is a lot better IMHO, about $25 a qt. It seals out the rust and actually gets harder with contact with moisture. It can be brushed or sprayed on. Note-Spraying should be done by pro's as it can be extremely toxic unless proper precautions are observed but brushing only requires only normal vertilation!!

I brushed the POR (Paint Over Rust)-15 on the battery tray on my '64 Impala 5 yrs ago and its still looks the same today. Prior to that it would corrode every year from the battery acid but now I just hose it down and no damage. I would say the POR-15 would out last the powercoat because it it more durable.

Just my experience.
 

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Hi John,
I worked for a fabricator and we used to have stuff powdercated all the time. The baking ovens reach a temp of 400 to 500 degrees, usually for 6 to 8 hours or so, depending on what material is being painted. You will definitely have to remove all the parts in your housing if you dont want them ruined. That temp for that long could warp a ring gear. Before the powdercoating process they will dip it in a chemical rinse to remove all the grease, grime, etc., and this would also not be good for the pinion bearing and seal.
Also- if youre going to sandblast it I wouldn't trust a rag shoved in the end to keep grit out. I would tape the ends and centersection with a healthy amount of duct tape. Better yet try to cap the ends with spray paint caps and tape.
Hope this helps- Pete

[This message has been edited by pete b (edited 10-22-2000).]
 

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You are going to be taking a big risk if you try to sand blast the housing without removing the internal parts. The sand has a way of getting inside things that are being blasted, and can ruin seals. You should carefully mark the bearing caps, shims and bearing races as to which side they came out of, then check the bearing pre-load on the pinion, and remove everything. The pinion seal probably needs to be replaced anyway, and this will give you a chance to inspect the bearings. Then you can use whatever process you want to coat the housing. When you put it back together, just set it back up the way it was when you took it apart. BE SURE TO USE A NEW CRUSH SPACER AND PINION NUT. It will take a lot of torque to colaps the new spacer so you will need a good breaker bar with a cheater. Tighten the pinion nut untill the pinion bearing pre-load is the same as it was when you took it apart. Torque the bearing caps to 65 foot pounds.

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'69 RS/SS396 pro street
427/4spd/9"
 

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Just curious...do you (or can you?) prime a part before powdercoating it? I have my frame all nice and smooth and sanded (I mean it is MINT!), but I was wondering if you could powder coat it now, or if I will have to strip all the primer off of it?
 

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Chevy454-

Its got to be bare metal. Sorry!
Pete
 

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CURIOSITY KILLS, HOW BIG CAN A PART BE IN ORDER TO GET IN AN OVEN TO POWDER COAT IT. A FRIEND OF MINE HERE POWDER COATS PARTS, BUT THE BIGGEST PART HE CAN FIT IN IS LIKE 3 CUBIC FTS. JUST CURIOUS.
 

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Orench,
The powdercoater I used has an oven they built to do railings and staircases for shopping malls and condos. It is about 35 feet long and 15 feet high and wide! They can fit pretty much anything in there.
Most ovens I've seen at other powdercoaters are about the size of a spray booth.
How is San Juan nowadays? I lived there when I was a kid. It's beautiful down there.
Pete
 

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Hi, I was wondering about the size because I heard you people talking powder coating a chasis. San Juan IS OK but too crowded for me, I prefer the western area where I live, Mayaguez. Thanks for the inquire and have a nice day.
 

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Can you powder coat engine parts (like heads & block)? If so, before or after the machining is done?
 
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