[ridesdirt]

I did a search and there are posts with this info, but it is buried in some threads and I thought this may be easier to find if someone was looking for the info.
When upgrading power a lot of people will beef up the drive shaft to match. Most common upgrade is to go from 1310 stock sized u joints to 1350 u joints.
Here is what the difference looks like:

stock driveshaft vs 3.5" aluminum - huge weight difference.

up close of each end:

 

[SoCal805]

definitely more meat on the bones with larger U joint saddles and U joints. I have 1330 on he 67 (automatic car) but do have 1350 on the T56 car (383). Both 3 1/2" Aluminum DS

This is the 1330 compared to the stock 1310

 

[ridesdirt]

@SoCal805 I was going to throw this in here too, I found your pictures and was going to credit you for them. But when I tried to save them off the internet, it was saving in an odd format so I just skipped it. Good add here.

 

[Vega$69]

Might wanna read this before jumping on the Alum DS bandwagon.

Driveshaft Basics: Steel vs. Aluminum vs. Carbon Fiber - PST

Steel, Aluminum or Carbon Fiber? Answers From the Industry Leader Precision Shaft Technologies. If You Need a Driveshaft, You Need PST.

pstds.com

 

[fast_in_muskoka]

Did you forget an attachment ?

Might wanna read this before jumping on the Alum DS bandwagon.

 

[Melmount]

I use a 4” dynotec shaft with 1350 u joint. Cromoly.
x nascar piece. I have several some different sizes. If anyone needs one. It’s possible I have the size.

 

[srode]

1330 are marginally stronger than 1310. 1350 are where you get the step up in torque handling capability.

 

[SoCal805]

Might wanna read this before jumping on the Alum DS bandwagon.

Do tell....

 

[Vega$69]

Do tell....

Driveshaft Basics: Steel vs. Aluminum vs. Carbon Fiber - PST

Steel, Aluminum or Carbon Fiber? Answers From the Industry Leader Precision Shaft Technologies. If You Need a Driveshaft, You Need PST.

pstds.com

Perhaps the biggest drawback again aluminum is its susceptibility to breakage. In these situations, not only will the driveshaft fail, but shrapnel-like pieces can damage adjacent systems and possibly injure vehicle occupants and those nearby. In addition, noise and vibration will be more noticeable with aluminum.

 

[SoCal805]

My $.02 is if its a track, 1/4 mi, car making over 500hp than a steel DS or exploding wallet fiber for higher HP. For me having drag raced all my life but with cars making mid 400 hp running a tire I have never had an issue with Aluminum. Even in a 4200lb+ car running a tire with 3k rpm clutch dumps.

Heck just look at all the cars with stock 1310 u joint shafts that are still on these 50+ year old cars then have 300-400hp

I did the Super Chevy tour for years. The one aluminum DS fail I saw at The Strip in Vegas, Inland Empire shaft, was the front weld failed so yoke just spun in shaft. made some noise on the line but otherwise no breakage.

Regardless of DS material one has...a DS safety loop should absolutely part of the mix. NHRA requires one if running a tire but that "why" translates into street use also...unless you are into pole vaulting.

and yeah go with at least 1330 but better yet 1350 yokes/U-joints

 

[ridesdirt]

My driveshaft is a PST.

@Vega$69 I did read that before purchasing and was concerned so I called PST, they recommended the 3.5" aluminum for my application. With so many options available today - everything has its "pros and cons". I did not want my driveshaft to be a weak link, they told me the one I got was rated to 1200 horsepower... and nitrous, I don't think I will ever have over 500 in my ride so I thought that was a decent safety factor.

 

[SY1]

I will go AL 1350 eventually. Safety loop until then. Been in a car when rear 1310 u-joint failed, that was fun. Uncle lost his GTX to a front u-joint/driveshaft, he survived, car did not. Pole vaulting does happen. He talked to me more than once about a safety loop when I got into cars. My steel 1310 is on borrowed time at 54 yrs old, and its heavy.

My reasoning. GM 96 Z 1LE had aluminum driveshaft option. I like carbon fiber, worked with it since 81 in aviation. But when used in heavy load carrying applications there is almost no damage tolerance. I would worry road rash on the street may compromise one pretty easily. Dragstrip is a great place for one though. Plus I will never make enough power to need carbon & that is a good thing for several reasons.

 

[DOUG G]

For us visual guys...

 

[slazisme]

Looks good and I'm sure your new driveshaft will work out well but other than weight savings of about 11 lbs. I really don't see any tangible advantage going with aluminum. A major point being steel is stronger than aluminum and it can be quite a few bucks cheaper. I guess it comes down to personal preference.

 

[Just 1 More]

Ok, I'll be that guy... Should have gone carbon 😁

 

[StevieBB54]

Ive had safety loops in the back of my mind. Are they designed to be installed in the front of the DS or rear? I dont have much if any room in the front, I kind of thought the H pipe that is just behind the front u joint would act as an anti-pole vaulter. No?

 

[SY1]

NHRA (2017) says max distance from front u-joint C/L to be 6 "

 

[Vega$69]

If you have an x pipe or h pipe exhaust it may be close enough to the tailshaft to support the DS if the front joint breaks

 

[SoCal805]

Yeah, H or X pipe behind front yoke would be a poor man's safety loop. It would not suffice for NHRA tech inspection as a SFI rated one would be needed....but for practical purposes it would eliminate the pole vault ooopsy otherwise.

 

[DOUG G]

Also to pass NHRA Tech, it needs to be 1/4" thick...

NHRA (2017) says max distance from front u-joint C/L to be 6 " View attachment 303811