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Hi all. I'm taking my '67 back to the original look with some Rally wheels. I'm thinking of putting 15x7's with 4.5" BS all the way around, but have seen some that have done the mixed, with 15x7's in the front and 15x8's in the back. I don't want the tires bulging out of the wheel well, but I don't want them sucked under it either, giving that 'wimpy' look. When looking from behind the vehicle, I'm looking for the widest tire, but with that straight, all in line with the body look.

I've looked at a variety of pictures and posts, but haven't really gotten an answer to my concern above. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Still up in the air about the tire size, but I think I'm going with BF Goodrich 215/60/15's on the front and 255/60/15's on the rear. Unless anyone sees an issue with these or can recommend a better setup based on what I've mentioned above.

I found this rally kit at Rick's Camaro. I've seen pricing all over the place regarding these rally wheel kits. Does this look like a good kit for the money?

http://www.rickscamaros.com/camaro-rally-wheel-kit-15-x-7-complete-for-cars-with-disc-brakes-1967.html

I've also seen the all chrome rallys, which I like the thought of just having one piece instead of a trim ring, however, I might like the original two tone look of the argent silver wheel vs. the chrome trim ring and center piece. I've found some at Classic Industries here:

http://www.classicindustries.com/camaro/parts/*RWK18.html

Any thoughts on setup or applicable pics would be appreciated!

Thanks!
 

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Well, I don't know what the quality is of those trim rings and caps. Probably ok ? I think the wheel's are Wheel Vintiques. Check Summit or Jegs prices for comparison on wheels. WV wheels are decent quality, however they are not hub centric like original GM wheels. Just the lug nuts center the wheel. There are adapters available to make them hub centric. If you wanted to go with 15x7 all the way around, used GM FW code wheels are common at cheap prices and are hub centric. They're 4.25" backspace.

Just something to think about. Also, last heard 215/65 T/A's are getting hard to find.....
 

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Garth,
I have checked with tire shops, a couple of service advisors I know, and a couple of engineers at the Big Three and they all tell me that OEM wheels are lug centric, at least in the late 60's and on. This is why the lug nuts have are conical in shape. Yes, the hub cutout in the factory rally wheel is smaller in diameter but it is still not a hub centric wheel. Factory wheels that are aluminum will have a closer fit because the mounting surfaces are machined, including the center hub bore. But you can still put the wheel on very easily, there's a lot of clearance. A steel wheel from the factory, ala Rally wheels, had the hub bore stamped out. No way could they hold tolerances tight enough for a wheel to be hub centric.
Bottom line, make sure your aftermarket wheels are balanced per manufacturers instructions and mounted on your car the correct way. People have been putting lug centric aftermarket wheels on their camaros since the 60's. Crager SS, Centerline, American Racing, all the others are lug centric and have been forever. Its not a big deal.
 

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I bought my 4 Wheel Vintiques 15 X 8 and 15 x 7 rallyes from Summit a couple of years ago without caps or trim rings for a total of $380 plus $9.95 shipping.

Rick's might charge you freight of $49 in comparison.... I was really happy with Summit's service over the years.
 

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Garth,
I have checked with tire shops, a couple of service advisors I know, and a couple of engineers at the Big Three and they all tell me that OEM wheels are lug centric, at least in the late 60's and on. This is why the lug nuts have are conical in shape. Yes, the hub cutout in the factory rally wheel is smaller in diameter but it is still not a hub centric wheel. Factory wheels that are aluminum will have a closer fit because the mounting surfaces are machined, including the center hub bore. But you can still put the wheel on very easily, there's a lot of clearance. A steel wheel from the factory, ala Rally wheels, had the hub bore stamped out. No way could they hold tolerances tight enough for a wheel to be hub centric.
Bottom line, make sure your aftermarket wheels are balanced per manufacturers instructions and mounted on your car the correct way. People have been putting lug centric aftermarket wheels on their camaros since the 60's. Crager SS, Centerline, American Racing, all the others are lug centric and have been forever. Its not a big deal.
I hear ya Chet, just goin' by what I've read here. If you search this forum you will find differing opinions.

btw, In the other recent thread where we were discussing WV wheels, there was some mention of the nice paint finish....Do yours have the sticker on them disclaiming any paint warranty ? Mine did. I actually found some blisters with a little rust underneath. Poor paint adhesion. Needless to say, I stripped the wheels to bare metal, epoxy primed and refinished....
 

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"If you wanted to go with 15x7 all the way around, used GM FW code wheels are common at cheap prices and are hub centric. They're 4.25" backspace."

X2

Especially if you are going to have to do this with the WV wheels. "I actually found some blisters with a little rust underneath. Poor paint adhesion. Needless to say, I stripped the wheels to bare metal, epoxy primed and refinished.... "


FW wheels are hub centric on first gen Camaros.
 

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All GM rims were, and had been since the 50's, Hub Centric PERIOD - on both cars and light truck applications. :thumbsup:

All you'd have to do is read the rim spec. to know this.
(Any GM 'Service'"Advisor" should know this basic information - if they are worth a $hit :p )

Chrysler vehicles or the 60~70's were also. Can't speak for the 80's on stuff, I gave up on them by then ...
Ford's cars can be, dependent on model type. Oddly, many of their small, often 4-lug, cars were while the larger were not ... Their trucks are not.

Your use of hub or lug centric replacement rims is up to you.
For most street use applications, with decent lug stud quality assured and proper lug type used, a lug centric rim type will not cause issues.
For any competition you will want increased stud strength, and size if needed, to assure proper rim retention under increased stresses.
Many competition sanctioning bodies also require stronger studs and a dedicated lug type.
 

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Garth,
I don't have any stickers whatsoever on my wheels about paint. Just the one to say they are lug-centric and need to be balanced as such. Entire wheel is silver. Nice. No sags, bubbles, etc.

OP,
Buy them thru Jegs. Free shipping! Save about $100.

Vintage,

You have your sources, I have mine. I'll trust my friend of 35 years who has managed a Firestone store, Goodyear store, and has been a service advisor for ten years. His father was a district manager for Firestone. Nobody knows wheels and tires like him. Search the internet on wheels and you won't find a definitive answer to this. I'll stand by my buddy and common engineering principals. You may believe who you want, its your car.
 

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I've got original GM rally wheels on two Camaros. After the lug nuts are removed, the wheels still need quite a bit of force to release from the hubs. If that's not hub-centric, then I don't know what is.
 

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Wheels machined for tapered lug bolts? Lug nuts tapered? Difference between hub diameter and hub bore less than .010 of an inch? If yes to the first two and no to the third, they're lug centric. Corvette wheels tightened by a spinner and no lug bolts? Hub centric. Believe what you want. Doesn't make a bit of of difference in performance or wear.
 

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I prefer 235's for the front IMG_0563.jpg
 

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Hi,
I have 15x8 on all 4 wheels.
225/60-15 in front and 245/60-15 in rear. Backspacing is 4" on all rims. Looks nice, but I have tire rub on outside at the rear wheels with load in the backseat, otherwise not, and I have standard height suspension w. monoleaf in rear.
I would recommend 4.5" backspacing at rear end if you would like to avoid that problem.
/Mikael
 

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Yes, BS 4.5" on the rear is the only way to go. On mine there's just a slight rub on the inside when go hard around sharp corners as the tire "bends" in a bit....no big deal.

I've got 4.5 BS on front with the 15 X 7s and the clearance is just right with 1" dropped stiff springs, I don't see how I'd fit 15 X 8s in mine with 4" BS....
 

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I've got 4.5 BS on front with the 15 X 7s and the clearance is just right with 1" dropped stiff springs, I don't see how I'd fit 15 X 8s in mine with 4" BS....
Actually, before replacing the front coil springs and shocks the front tires were rubbing at the fender lips and the headers were hitting every bump in the road. Now it is working but the front wheels are too much ut out in the wheel wells.

Have to admit that I have ordered 17x8" rims (5-spoke) with 4.5" backspacing for all 4 wheels, 235/45-17 in front and 245/45-17 in rear, but I will keep the rallyewheels :)

/Mikael
 

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I have the same set up as Elmer and I get many positive comments. I have BB springs on the front of my RS/SS SB vert with AC. I spaced the inner fender back about 1/4 inch and just took the top chrome bolt out. I bought used Vette 15 x 8s, sandblasted and put the short caps on. If you look around you should be able to pick up some used ones. I paid $75 a few years back for mine.
 
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