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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1967 Camaro and I'm needing some experienced advice on pulling the 4 speed Muncie tranny out (and reinstallation) to have a leak fixed and a general refresher. I've read the "Official" Chevrolet 1967 Chassis guide numerous times.... as well as a few other publications. I think I've gathered the necessary tools and equipment etc. and the guide gives reference to using guide pins in the top holes. I understand the concept but where do you get the pins? The guide has a GM part number (J1126)... and a picture that looks like a bolts with the head cut off... if so I think a person could make some of those... but what size are they and the approximate length? I thought by chance some of you have removed a tranny or two and you might have a tip or two that may help. like, what's the best way to support the engine when I have the tranny out..... thing's like that.
Let me know if you have any suggestions.....
Thanks,
Don
 

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I ground the heads off two correct sized head bolts to lengthen them the length of the heads and use them..

I want to say Pontiac head bolt's or maybe main bolts???

I put them in on just one side to make it easier to R&R them hand tight.

had them in my tool box for more years than I can remember??

pdq67
 

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are you going to use a lift of jack stands? you definetly need to support the rear of the engine when you remove the cross member or you can say good-by to your dist. cap. if your real high use a pipe jack stand or if your low just use a bottle or floor jack with a block of wood.
 

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are you going to use a lift of jack stands? you definetly need to support the rear of the engine when you remove the cross member or you can say good-by to your dist. cap. if your real high use a pipe jack stand or if your low just use a bottle or floor jack with a block of wood.
Yes...
Two jack stands, a legnth of 4x4 and some 2x4 and 2x2 will help out holding the rear engine up. It is ok to tilt down because it allows you to get at the top bell housing bolts. You guys know the two that are hard to get at :(

Kev
 

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Make sure to use a large block of wood under the oil pan to spread out the load. Also, remove the distributor cap AND rotor because you'll have to slightly lower the engine to get out that annoying bolt in the bellhousing on the driver's side near the linkage arm. Makes sense also to get yourself a scissor trans jack. There's no way you're going to bench press that trans and line it up when you go to re-install. PLus it helps with removal.
I support the trans with a floor jack near the bellhousing to get the x-member out. Once the x-member is out, lower the engine using the trans jack. This way you're not using the oil pan to carry all that load. Once it's lowered, put the block under the pan, give it a slight lift, loosen the bolts, and slide the trans out. Continue with BH removal.
Use the alignment pins in the two upper bolt holes during re-installation. I cut the head off a standard bolt to make them.
 

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Makes sense also to get yourself a scissor trans jack. There's no way you're going to bench press that trans and line it up when you go to re-install. PLus it helps with removal.
.
It used to be no problem to remove and reinstall with no jack at all. But that was 25 years ago, it's amazing how much things change in 25 years.:sad: Mike. :beers: :beers:
 

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big mike,

I have to froun(Sp?) & laugh too b/c of my NOW old man's weakening.

It's a real bi-ch getting old to me......................

You ain't lived until you bench-pressed a 3-speed stick OD up in there from a shallow hole in the ground in the middle of a spitting snow blow as a kid trying ta get his old beater going before it finally froze for the winter.....

Slide into the hole under the car feet first on your back w/ the tranny on your chest pointed the right way and grunt, kick and cuss until you put it up in there!!!!!

He, He!!

pdq67
 

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Yep Paul..

Some of them buggers were heavy :) A 1990 Dodge P/U 3 speed trans is heavy and hard to push way up in there isn't it ! Boy, I though I was going to die ....

Kev
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hey... thanks for all the replys! Yes, the way to go is to use a T-jack! No way am I gonna try to muscle it Out or back IN! I've got everything done except to unhook the shifter linkage and actually lower the tranny down and out. That is scheduled for another day this week. I don't expect to have any unforseen issues.... Thanks to all for the tips!
Don
 

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I've always wanted to make a small "box" shaped deal that would fit on my floorjack that would locate my tranny but never have..

Heck, I don't R&R it often enough to mess w/ it...

pdq67
 

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If it helps, I got my scissor t-jack from Harbor Freight tools - $75. It works well
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hey Guy's.... got the tranny out no problems thanks to the advice! But as usual I encountered more issues. Seems that the stock bronze pilot bushing in the crank had been replaced with a needle bearing. Well, probably due to the lack of lubrication it failed and gouged the IP shaft on the tranny which will now be repalced. So now I have the "opportunity" to learn how to remove the clutch and clean out all of the loose needles etc and believe me... install a correct bronze bushing.... (to me they seem to be the best choice for this application, since there are oil impregnated and there's no way to get lube to the needle bearing)
So can anyone share any tips on what I'm ablout to tackel?
Thanks,
Don
 

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if they put in a bearing and going to replace it with a bearing put grease in there also for pilot bushing grease it well as for trans is the input end all scored up for the leak where is it coming from front of trans will leak if parked downhill muncies dont have front seals in them alot of times pilot bearing goes cause input bearing on trans is no good. i rebuild transmissions e mail me if any other questions for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hi, I read your response.. Thanks! I can use all the advice I can get.... FYI,I'm having the trans rebuilt as we speak.. (professionally of course) and yes, the front bearing in the trans is open. I'm changing that to a sealed to lessen the possibility of the "leak"...... But now my task is to disassemble the clutch etc. to remove the race and remains of the needle bearing.... if it would have had the brz the IP may not needed replaced.... it too will be new.... I've never actually done the clutch removal (as well as the tranny) thing before but I've got lots of resources to tap and feel I can gitter' done! So thanks aging for your post to my question... the tip I received on the trans removal helped a bunch.
 

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The clutch is pretty simple, I'd recommend a zoom kit from summit for nearly anything. It's a quality piece, and include the pressure plate and disk, plus an alingment tool. Just unbolt the old and when you bolt on the new, stick the slignment tool thru the disk and into the pilot bearing, try to get it as close to "lined up with the crank" as you can. Tighten the pressure plate bolts in stages in a star pattern, you don't want to bend it. It will be "tight" against the disk with an 1/8" of air still between the pressure plate and flywheel, gotta compress those springs real even. Torque em to specs.

While the clutch is off, check the flywheel for discoloration, cracks, or "checks." Anything ugly, it needs to come off and go to a machine shop for resurfacing. If it looks nice, leave it on, clean it, and hit it with some 220 grit sandpaper to break any glaze.

If you take the flywheel off, get new bolts to attach it to the crank, they are special, go to Chevy dealer or order ARP's.

For a bronxe bearing, you'd pack it full of grease, stick something that is a snug fit into the hole, and beat on it, the pressure of the grease will force it out. I don't know if this method will work with a toasted roller bearing.

Your car will use a 10.4" clutch with a 10 spline disk, and a short throwout bearing. The "good" bearings say "BCA and a number" etched right on them. Auto Zone carries them. I bought a different one once, it was a timkin, which should be a good bearing, but the backside was some sort of black plastic, and it really didn't feel right. I did not use it. Remember, the entire clutch fork goes in the groove in the throwout bearing, the 2 lil clips DO NOT clip over the outside edge of the bearing.

If you got the disk lined up, the trans should just slide right in. If it stops with 1/2 to 3/4" to go, it's hung on the pilot bushing, have someone press the clutch while you push the trans and it will slide right home.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Update, well the clutch removal and install went off w/o a hitch.... thanks to the tips from everyone! The tranny slipped in with a little restsance but after I got it lined up and started there weren't any problems. I got everything hooked up and tested and then took the car for a spin.... everything operated smoothly.... I was very happy about that. Now, the next problem. I was hoping that it was just the tranny that was leaking but I still have an oil leak (although not as much as it used to be) that is dripping off the bottom of the bell housing. It must be coming from the back side of the engine somewhere.... I'm thinking the possibilities are, the intake manifold, the heads, the oil sending unit... but it's hard to determine. So any suggestions on where else to investigate would be appreciated.
Thanks, Don
 

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First suggestion would be the the input shaft on Muncies do tend to drip. Check the oil level in the trans, I generally consider them "full" if I can just barely stick my pinky in far enough to get oil on the tip. If the oil level is all the way to the edge of the hole, it will probably leak out the front of the trans.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
..Update, well as it turned out the leaks were form the valve covers. I've used cork gaskets originally and they leaked so I changed them out to the rubber.... they too over time developed a leak. I was about to resort back to the cork but decided after some research to use Loctite Instant Gasket. This is a rubber/RTV Silicone "blend" that has worked for me in the past on water leaks. Since I have chrome valve covers that tend to be hard to get sealed with gaskets I decide to go that direction. It worked and hopefully the problem has been resolved.
Thanks to all you folks who replied to my post and to other post on this site and to the replys they reveived I'm almost road ready for the upcomming summer!
Don
 
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