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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I got the new stainless steel exhaust installed, I went with Pypes after some communication with them. There was no aftermarket off the shelf system to work with my 4 link system as the upper bars get in the way. The Pypes system turned out to be pretty close but will require some modification to fit. I also bought down pipes from Pypes per recommendation of the representative that I talked to. The down pipes are made to work with manifolds, I however am running mid length headers. I knew that the pipes would require some modification they ended up working very good as did the whole system. I also was able to modify the cross member on convertibles and install the extension brackets that are also from Pypes. Overall very happy with the system. At some point I may come up with a more substantial cross member but for now this will work.

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Continued working on the weather stripping replacement today. Going into the day the only parts that I had left to complete were both vent windows and the rear window verticals. This is a painful and exhausting installation. I installed removed the vent window and installed the weather stripping then put the vent window back into place without removing the window glass. There are 2 nuts, 1 bolt, and 2 screws that hold the regulator in. As I said in an earlier post the wiring and some other work in this car was not very good. Here are some pictures showing that work.

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The outer window felt had to be removed. Unfortunately, I did the weather stripping in the wrong order as I have already installed my new window felts. Luckily, I was able to remove this without messing it up.
I removed the 2 screws from the window glass that hold it to the regulator, this allow me to move the glass toward the latch enough to lift the vent glass out.

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Once removed I removed the two screws as well as the nut and spring on the bottom of the window glass this allows the vent window to be removed. To allow the trim to separate the screw at the top of the channel (where the window would raise up to) must be removed this also has to be removed to install the long straight piece of weather stripping that acts as a seal for the window.

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Here is a picture of the clips that hold the angled part of the weather stripping in, these are a pain to install.

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The driver side turned out pretty good. I still have to do the passenger side but I will get that done in time when I can move the car to the center of my garage for an extended period of time.

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Nice work and great documentation Austin. A couple of suggestions on the exhaust would be to use band clamps instead of the u-bolt style. Also use exhaust paste/cement on the joints regardless of the clamp style used. This reduces the amount of torque required to seal the joints on the u-bolt style clamps. If you ever have to remove/disassemble the system it will come apart much easier and without damage. Keep up the good work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Nice work and great documentation Austin. A couple of suggestions on the exhaust would be to use band clamps instead of the u-bolt style. Also use exhaust paste/cement on the joints regardless of the clamp style used. This reduces the amount of torque required to seal the joints on the u-bolt style clamps. If you ever have to remove/disassemble the system it will come apart much easier and without damage. Keep up the good work.
Thank you for the kind works, I am trying to document as much as possible! I have never heard about that for the exhaust I will do that. Additionally, I see your in Waterloo that is only a little over an hour from me. I went to a car show at the fairgrounds there last year actually (didn't have the Camaro there). Hopefully they can resume the car show next year.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Austin, I now see you're in Dubuque. I was at the Waterloo show. Hopefully this coming year will be better for shows. Fingers crossed.
If they end up having that show or any other shows you will have to let me know. Hopefully I will be able to bring the car!
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
I decided with my plans for this car, occasional road trips, that I should upgrade the cooling system. For this I turned to cold case radiators. The kits showed up packaged very well, all fins were in good condition. You can see in the picture below of the first test fit that the radiator was in very good condition.

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I decided to purchase their kit which included a fan and shroud. These comes not attached and need to be mounted as seen in the picture. Not to difficult to do and turned out very good.

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Using the GM serpentine setup and a stock inlet/outlet radiator made it necessary to make a custom upper radiator hose. I just used a simple rubber 90 and straight piece with a piece of pipe in between the two. This works just fine but lacks a little rigidity so I will be making a custom bracket on a CNC mill at work once I am able to get some time on it. Once this is made, I will include some pictures of the bracket. I used the closest two available holes and the bracket is only supporting a hose so it should work fine.

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Earlier I had moved the battery to the truck, using a box from summit racing. I also ran some wiring along the front of the floor for my EFI. To clean up the truck (and keep rust dust down) I threw a quick couple coats of POR-15 on it. By no means is this a professional paint job of new trunk pan but my pan is still in very good shape. I didn’t get in every inch of the truck but I will, I just wanted to get the majority covered while the weather is still decent.

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I also replaced the trunk seal, this was probably the easiest piece of weather stripping on the entire car to replace. When I removed the old one it basically disintegrated. Now the truck lead needs to be adjusted as it does not want to close down far enough to line up with the rear of the quarter panels.

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
A little update I have installed new stainless transmission lines. I would highly recommend these, they were bought from Camaro central. Shipping cost was high due to the fact that these need to be shipped in a very large box but these lines worked perfect.

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I also want to document some of the things that have been going on with me EFI. As stated earlier I am running a FAST EZ EFI 2.0, FAST dual sync distributor, MSD 6al, and MSD Blaster 2 ignition coil. FAST worked with me on the leaking injector bore and sent me a new throttle body, I did have to call a couple times and speak with a manager as the unit was no long in warranty. The most recent issue was that I would start the car and the handheld would display a "comm error" then shut off and restart right away. This would just continue to happen. I emailed FAST but didn't get a reply the next day so I called, spoke with someone in tech who gave me three things that might fix the issue. First was to check the switched 12v source, I did this and it was a clean source. Second was to remove the extension cable for the handheld and plug the unit directly into the ECU, tried with no luck. The third thing was to send the handheld to FAST for a reset. After trying the first two I called and spoke with a different tech who offered another possible solution, to reset the handheld without sending the unit back. I tried this while on the phone with the tech and it seemed to work although I could only run the car for a couple mins as I had a transmission leak. This evening I fixed the transmission leak and ran the car for a little longer, the ECU/Handheld did not display a "comm error". I am cautiously optimistic, hopefully this problem is resolved but I am not going to get too excited yet. Hopefully the weather this weekend is decent, if so I will get the car out and drive it around. There is still a ton of work that I would like to complete on this car but it will be nice to get the car running and not have to worry about the fuel injection system.

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Yes I know that my overflow tank is very ugly, I will be replacing this eventually but right now getting the car running is much more of a priority. Also the under hood wiring shown in this picture is the current situation, its a little messy but I will clean that up once I know everything is correct.
 

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Please tell me that battery box is bolted down or AGM.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Oh yes it is most definitely bolted down to the truck floor. I am happy with the battery box to this point, it is just a Summit brand box. I routed both cables and the vent through the truck floor (with grommets). I grounded the battery to the frame in the rear and routed the positive to the starter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Small update/tip for anyone doing weather stripping. I ordered a complete OER weather stripping kit from Classic industries it came with the black little push clips used to hold the weather stripping in place. The push pins included in kit suck! The leading tip is larger diameter than the pin. Getting them to push in is near impossible. I struggled through getting them to fit by smashing the end I ended up using them all and breaking a few. I ordered more push pins from Camaro Central, they showed up and worked 100x better the tip is not larger than the pin like the ones included in the OER kit from Classis industries. See the picture below, these are the pins from Camaro Central unfortunately I do not have any pictures of the ones included in the kit.

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More in depth updates to come this weekend when I get some work done on the car. I am hoping to test the fuel injection more this weekend as well so hopefully I will have good news about that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Small update of work complete over the weekend. It is a good thing that I did not get my hopes up to high that my fuel injection was going to work because it didn't. I fired up the car to take it for a drive around the neighborhood and after checking fluid levels and for leaks got in the car and seconds later the handheld displayed a communication error same as it was before I spoke with FAST. The recording for FAST says they are option on Saturday 10am to 4pm I believe, so I called them on Saturday when working on the car. As you could probably guess no one was there. I left a message with the previous technician that I spoke with but have yet to hear back (2 days later).

I am beyond frustrated with the fuel injection so I decided to work on replacing the passenger side vent window weather stripping. I was able to complete this but I won't bore anyone going as in-depth as I did with the driver side. The weather stripping on the passenger side couldn't have been any dryer. As seen in the pictures below it came apart in pieces. I think the vent window turned on pretty decent for an amateur.

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Unfortunately there is snow in the forecast for this weekend so its not looking good for driving the car any time soon even if I do get the fuel injection sorted out. That will however, allow me to make a lot of progress on the car. I am planning to get the vent window reinstalled, work on making my electric oil pressure gauge work, and install the weather stripping on the rear quarter windows. I will be getting ahold of FAST asap to get a solution figured out hopefully I do not have to pull this system off and replace it with something else.
 

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Austin,
Glad to see you are marking progress, I just did the Esther striping you are doing on the center does doors and quarter windows. I think it makes a difference in the appearance of the car never mind function. I would have thought by the ads the fuel injection was easy. Seems like that is not the case at all. Good luck and keep us updated on the issue.
Derek
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Austin,
Glad to see you are marking progress, I just did the Esther striping you are doing on the center does doors and quarter windows. I think it makes a difference in the appearance of the car never mind function. I would have thought by the ads the fuel injection was easy. Seems like that is not the case at all. Good luck and keep us updated on the issue.
Derek
I can only speak for the system I have which is the FAST EZ EFI 2.0 that being said at this point I am not at all happy as this is the second issue I have had. I am 4 phone calls deep and still not solved. I will keep this updated if anything changes with the fuel injection.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Called FAST tonight still do not have the fuel injection comm error resolved. I am going to replace the fuel injection battery connections this weekend and check the grounds. At this point I am at a loss as to what the issue could be and FAST is not exactly being helpful.

On a more positive note the bracket for the upper radiator hose has been squared, and milled on 5 sides. I am now in the process of cutting the extra material away using a bandsaw as to now waste valuable CNC mill time. I have completed about half of the cutting then the finish machine the piece to the correct depth. The second piece to this bracket will be quicker to machine as it is much smaller.

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The custom parts are a very exciting and rewarding part of this project. Hopefully I can continue to make a few more custom parts but most items are available for these cars so its not cost effective (or worth the time) to make my own unless its required as all my machining has to be done at work after hours. I will be sure to post pictures of this bracket when it get closer to completion and when its done. I am not sure when that will be hopefully soon, but it all depends when the CNC mill is available.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Fuel injection update! Friday morning I sent Fast an email, the email started by stated that this should be forwarded to the highest seniority person available. I received an email back from the technical service manager within 2 hours. He apologized for the inconvenience and stated that he would have the lead tech call me between the hours I stated that I was available. I got a call from the lead later that night while on the phone we talked through possible causes for the symptoms I was experiencing. We decided that the first step would be to test for interference and voltage drop. To do this he had me hook to 12v switched wire directly to the battery. To do this I separated the 12v switch Fast wire from the loom, this would also allow me distance from all other electrical components to limit interference. The red wire in the picture is the wire that I used as a jumper directly to the battery.

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After getting this all rigged up while being on the phone, I started the car. I was able to get the car to operating temperature without the ECU throwing a communication error. Prior to this trial I had not be able to do so since breaking in the engine.

At this point we concluded that we were making leaps in the right direction, so I shut the car down as it was snowing into the garage. This morning I tore apart my temporary solution and made it permanent. To avoid a voltage drop and get away from any potential interference I decided to hook only the fuel injection to the 12v switched wire in the painless harness. The other wires that were previously hook to this wire (fuel pump relay wiring and MSD 6AL box) I hooked into the fuse box in an empty ACC location. You can see I have 2 spots available in the picture below, ignore the messy wiring as nothing was routed cleanly until I know the system works.

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I started the car again after completing all me rewiring and had the same result as last night. No Communication Error!! I am hoping that this fixes the issue I have been having. To clarify the issue (if we are correct with this fix) was not in the FAST system, as I assumed it was a mistake that I made. I ran the wires in loom across the firewall when I terminate the wires for connection I was to close to the coil. FAST recommends 10 inches between the coil and any wires as I found out during my phone call last night. The other possible issues was that I tied the FAST 12v wire, Painless 12v source wire, MSD 6AL box, and fuel pump relay all into the same termination. It was easier to rewire the FAST and Painless into a weatherpak connector under the driver side fender than pulling them through the firewall. This means that I would not have 12v source for the MSD box and fuel pump so I used an available ACC spot in the fuse panel.

The FAST technician requested that I call him and let him know the results as well as look into a couple of other perimeters next week. I am confident that we are on the correct path to finding a solution. I would like to let everyone know that Dallas from FAST was very helpful and patient. Big Thank you to Dallas for the exceptional service!
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Small update. I have pulled the plug in the passenger side head for the 5th time it was still leaking coolant. I am going to try a brass plug and clean the threads of the hole entirely. Hopefully that works to eliminate the leak. If anyone has experience the same thing with an aluminum head feel free to chime in with any advice.

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Additionally, I finally received my new window felt kit from Classic Industry's as the first had two of the same felt. If anyone has a picture of the intersection between the outside window felt and the rear trim I would like to see the correct way for these pieces to overlap or maybe someone can tell me if the picture below is correct. My car was cobbled when I bought it so I want to confirm what I am doing is correct.

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I also got all the excess aluminum cut from my radiator hose bracket, now it just needs to be milled to the correct thickness, have the holes drilled and tapped, and the (cap) needs to be made. Surprisingly work has been swamped so I have not been able to get any time on the mill.

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I'm not sure if this will help or not, but I had coolant seeping around a bolt hole that wasn't being used on the front of the block. I tried tread sealant and teflon, didn't help, so I used some blue Loctite thread locker on the threads, never saw a drop after that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
I'm not sure if this will help or not, but I had coolant seeping around a bolt hole that wasn't being used on the front of the block. I tried tread sealant and teflon, didn't help, so I used some blue Loctite thread locker on the threads, never saw a drop after that.
I will definitely keep that in mind as I have never heard of that before. I spoke with a co-worker in the maintenance department and he suggested putting sealer and the thread then wrapping that in pipe tape. Apparently he used to see this probably once in a while and that was the solution that he used. Hoping to get the car put back together this week and get it to operating temperature to see if the repair holds.
 
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