1967 RS SS big block convertible unfinished

965 Views 23 Replies 9 Participants Last post by Vega$69, 15 d ago

bobjs67rsss

Discussion Starter · 19 d ago

I bought this car in 2006. Did a nut and bolt restoration, the project stalled and has been in deep storage for over 10 years. Over 800 shop hours. I registered the car here as missing the original drivetrain. Decodes as, born the third week of June, interior black, convertible custom interior, Norwood in Ohio, black custom bucket seats, butternut yellow, power white top, all tinted windows, power convertible top, thm 400 3speed automatic, center counsel, rear antenna, rpoz22 rally sport, 396 325 horse, deluxe seatbelts, appearance group and not in the codes (fast ratio power steering and four piston manual disc brakes). The car looks like a brand new car after professional restoration. I have a Numbers correct totally rebuilt block and transmission rebuilt. Interior mostly finished. I do not have to sell, just have a feeling I’m not gonna get around to finishing it, and it deserves to be finished. All body parts were NOS except a good mark hood and passenger door. Just curious what an unfinished but mostly done project is worth. Naturally I understand I won’t retrieve all the money invested so far…

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BillDini

· #2 · 19 d ago

Numbers correct or number matching. There is a difference. One came with the car and one didn't. As far as the price it is certainly equipped well and someone check all the boxes when they built it. I would be only guessing but I would say north of 45k to start, higher if number matching.

Sauron67MM

· #3 · 18 d ago

Bob, My number and email is at the bottom of this reply. Give me a call please. Scott

Rallegreen

· #4 · 18 d ago

BillDini said:
Numbers correct or number matching. There is a difference. One came with the car and one didn't. As far as the price it is certainly equipped well and someone check all the boxes when they built it. I would be only guessing but I would say north of 45k to start, higher if number matching.

Rallegreen

· #5 · 18 d ago

Clean and elegant Convertible big block tastefully done, nice car. These cars are fetching some decent money. Most if not all these cars have gone over a hundred thousand miles. I think the numbers matching come to play on cars under 5 thousand well documented miles on the car. Who wants a numbers matching 150 thousand mile engine blowing blue smoke.

BillDini

· #6 · 18 d ago (Edited)

Rallegreen said:
Clean and elegant Convertible big block tastefully done, nice car. These cars are fetching some decent money. Most if not all these cars have gone over a hundred thousand miles. I think the numbers matching come to play on cars under 5 thousand well documented miles on the car. Who wants a numbers matching 150 thousand mile engine blowing blue smoke.

Number matching always brings more cash at sale time. Both mine are totally rebuilt back to stock condition even though they have 70k and 80k mileage. Paperwork especially with GM losing all our records makes number matching even more important to prove authenticity with cars like my 68 Chevelle L79. My 71 Camaro SS does have all of it’s our original paperwork but it is still worth more cash with all numbers matching including the transmission and rear end. It’s just how it works.

Rallegreen

· #7 · 18 d ago

The big money is low mile cars documented unrestored. The more miles, the less becomes orignal because parts got replaced

bobjs67rsss

Discussion Starter · #8 · 18 d ago

If you read the post, it says it’s missing the original drivetrain. Thanks for your reply.

BillDini

· #9 · 18 d ago

Rallegreen said:
The big money is low mile cars documented unrestored. The more miles, the less becomes orignal because parts got replaced

True but my number matching 68 Chevelle convertible L79 is worth much more then your NOM convertible L79

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BillDini

· #10 · 18 d ago (Edited)

bobjs67rsss said:
If you read the post, it says it’s missing the original drivetrain. Thanks for your reply.

I think your biggest money loser on your car is that it isn’t finished. By the time you do door panels, seats and convertible top it’ could cost 10k if done in a shop. I would finish the car otherwise buyers may feel your just another guy that has lost interest and willing to take less to get rid of the car. You aren’t number matching but you are documented which is certainly worth cash and work to date appears to be well done and the car is very well equipped. However it’s the buyer that will price the car and not me or anyone else. What would you need to get out of the car to be happy?

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srode

· #11 · 18 d ago

I would pay a shop to finish it first then sell it - that's a very nice car finished and I think you will get paid back well on the money it takes to get it across the finished line.

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Vega$69

· #12 · 18 d ago

With all these opinions and number v non numbers discussion no one has answered the OPs question.

What is it worth?

I see $50ish as a fair price. Maybe spend $10 to finish it and get $70ish?

I’d take a very nice NOM car over a so-so numbers car anyway.

Numbers don’t mean that much nowadays unless the car is a Z or BB SS and imho condition is more important than #s.

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BillDini

· #13 · 18 d ago

Vega$69 said:
With all these opinions and number v non numbers discussion no one has answered the OPs question.

What is it worth?

I see $50ish as a fair price. Maybe spend $10 to finish it and get $70ish?

I’d take a very nice NOM car over a so-so numbers car anyway.

Numbers don’t mean that much nowadays unless the car is a Z or BB SS and imho condition is more important than #s.

But I did, I valued it in its current state to be 45k + or higher if number matching

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The Camaro Guy

· #14 · 18 d ago

The quality of the restoration is very important. If you watched the Mecum auctions they talk about that all the time. There was a color change on a 63 Vette that brought 300k plus for example. I would finish the car and look at $60-75K.

dhutton

· #15 · 18 d ago

Finish it if you can. You will take it in the shorts selling it unfinished.

Don

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jadams

· #16 · 18 d ago

"Maple Motors" in Hendersonville TN has a beautiful base 68 camaro droptop in inventory right now at 49,900. Albeit, nothing works,(horn,wipers,etc), but it will sell. Your car is above and beyond that in rarity, and desirability. That said, NOT everybody can go out in the garage and figure out how to get things working, like accesseries, just as the same person cannot finish a car restoration, no matter how close you are. Others are correct. The more complete you make it, the more it will fetch. But to get in the 45-50K range, it at least needs to be roadworthy.Just my .02. Good luck.

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Vega$69

· #17 · 18 d ago

dhutton said:
Finish it if you can. You will take it in the shorts selling it unfinished.

Don

A finished car will always bring more than a project.

However, unless the OP has the time and desire to finish it himself, the cost of having a shop finish it may not be recouped even if the car sells for more $.

$10k at a shop only buys you 60-100 hours depending on the shop. My guess is a shop is going to want 200-300 hours plus parts.

BillDini

· #18 · 17 d ago (Edited)

Vega$69 said:
With all these opinions and number v non numbers discussion no one has answered the OPs question.

What is it worth?

I see $50ish as a fair price. Maybe spend $10 to finish it and get $70ish?

I’d take a very nice NOM car over a so-so numbers car anyway.

Numbers don’t mean that much nowadays unless the car is a Z or BB SS and imho condition is more important than #s.

I disagree with your comment that numbers matching doesn't matter. Today many cars do not have a good paper trail and numbers will show what the car came with. If you take both my cars, one is a 99 point car and the other is a clean original with a lighter restoration SS with a 350. You mention only BBC or Z's but fail to mention all the other cars such as my L79 that came with a unique drivetrain ie, M21 and 12 bolt. I searched many sites on this topic and all said additional value for a number matching car. Lets take my 68 Chevelle, no paper trail but fully number matching down to the distributor and carburetor. Without proof that it is a true L79 car numbers are the only way to prove the car is original as shipped and in that case the value drop would be huge if it wasn't. A simple restamp of the engine pad will prove nothing but the entire package will. Take my 71 Camaro are you saying that the Z27 package added no value with the original drivetrain versing a car with a drop in drivetrain? That makes no sense. I understand your view about a so-so car numbers matching versing a well done car but if both are well done the numbers car will always bring more cash.

As for answering the OP's question being a number matching car or not it is a fitting discussion as for total value of his car. Let's assume he has no paper trail what would stop him from installing a L78? A knowledgeable Camaro expert would figure it out but how about the less knowledgeable buyer. Sorry about the long talk but you are dealing with a guy that has never bought a non matching car and I have had quite a few cars over the last 50 years.

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Vega$69

· #19 · 17 d ago

We agree. Different strokes.

I could care less about the #s. I care about the quality of the build. And performance.

Protours and Restos done right go for way more than #s cars.

If as you say 2 equal quality cars for the same price? Yeah take the #s. If the premium added to the asking price is worth it to a buyer go for it.

Bottom line. If the cars are equipped the same, even with Nom drivetrain, in reality it is no different than the #s car. Even if it started as a plain Jane L6.

BillDini

· #20 · 17 d ago

Vega$69 said:
We agree. Different strokes.

I could care less about the #s. I care about the quality of the build. And performance.

Protours and Restos done right go for way more than #s cars.

If as you say 2 equal quality cars for the same price? Yeah take the #s. If the premium added to the asking price is worth it to a buyer go for it.

Bottom line. If the cars are equipped the same, even with Nom drivetrain, in reality it is no different than the #s car. Even if it started as a plain Jane L6.

Agreed especially with Resto mods being much more expensive however a properly done restomod usually has big bucks into the conversion cost. Cars today do come in many different classes and vary in prices. What counts is you own what you want and enjoy to drive.

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