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Discussion Starter #1
I purchased a reproduction rear spoiler from Classic Indutries, but my car is not a facotry rear spoiler car...

Does anyone know how I can measure the proper holes to drill my rear trunk lid to fit the new spoiler I just bought?

Or maybe, do any camaro companies make a rear template on where to drill the holes for a rear spoiler?

I need help guys...what do you all think?:confused:

Thanks.
 

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You could appluy blue painter's tape to trunk. Install studs into spoiler and place onto trunk lid.

Even on the sides, and align rear edge of spoiler with trunk edge. Mark tape where studs hit tape. Drill holes with tape installed. Remove tape, apply a sealant to studs, wrap studs inside of trunk lid with butyl tape and bolt down spoiler. Butyl tape will squish into place sealing the studs.

Unless somebody comes up with measurements.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Search "spoiler" on this site. You'll find lots of information, most guys make a cardboard template off the actual spoiler they are installing since the studs can vary from one spoiler to the next. That being said here is a diagram that can be used for reference http://www.stevescamaroparts.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderfiles/rearspoilerdiagram.pdf


Thanks guys for all your help so far. Im really glad Im a memeber of this camaro forum. Everyone is really knowledgeable here.

Also, thanks for that link jerry67. I think that diagram will help out alot.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Take the studs out and make a template. If you don't, you'll be sorry :)


Thanks for the advice, but what Im wondering is will the studs that are preinstalled in the spoiler come out, or are they held in there with some type of adhesive or glue?

Have you bought one of these reproduction rear spoilers form Classic Industries and actually taken the studs out before go2fast?
Ill give it a try, but I want to be totally sure they will come out easily since its a fiberglass piece. I want to be really careful and not break anything on it.
 

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I bought one from some place, don't remember who and unscrewed them. You can make the template leaving them in and pressing the spoiler on a piece of cardboard to make indentations. The problem is that if any are bent or not in perfectly straight it won't sit flat unless you make the holes bigger than they need to be.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks guys for All your info, it helped out alot.

First what I did was measure out those diagram measurments and marked them with a slightly bendable drafting metal ruler and pencil. That came from that link you provided to me jerry67 (thanks!). The rear end of the trunk looked like an engineering template when I was finally done marking where each hole would be.

Once I had that all done, I checked where everything was with the spoiler's studs itself to see how close my marks were from the diagram to the spoiler studs.

Since I didnt want to have to make slots in case the holes were slightly off, I made a template just as you suggested with the carboard go2fast and that really helped me to get the final holes marked in for drilling.

Once everything was finally marked, I drilled, and boom, evey stud lined up perfect and the spoiler went in smoothly! :hurray:

Ill post some pics this weekend when I have a chance. Thanks for all the help guys!
 

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go to firstgen.com and look on the page for spoilers they got all the measurements on how to do it. thats where i got it and did it on mine.
 

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Looking for some information regarding pre-drilled trunk/deck lids.

My baby was vandalized and I need to replace the trunk lid and I've seen replacements with spoiler holes pre-drilled and without any holes drilled usually with about a $10 or so price difference. I've seen lids as low as $124 and as high as $800 or more for steel. If you go for carbon or aluminum think more like $500-$1300. I'm just looking for a steel lid. I've been told that the newer pressings are better just the other day by a local dealer and I've read that the newer pressings are worse because they never retooled the presses just shipped them off to Asia.

With all that said I was expecting to pay around or under $200 as most sites have a decklid with pre-drilled spoiler holes in the $150-219 range. But from what I've read in this post the pre-drilled holes could be a problem in that my spoiler may not match the holes?

I just talked to Classic Industries today and they told me that the reason one of their deck lids was $80 more was because the holes were pre-drilled and that's worth the extra $80 and that's what I should buy. They didn't say anything about the holes may not match my spoiler.

Jeez you'd think these part houses were used car salesmen.

Howz 'bout a li'l help?
 

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You could appluy blue painter's tape to trunk. Install studs into spoiler and place onto trunk lid.

Even on the sides, and align rear edge of spoiler with trunk edge. Mark tape where studs hit tape. Drill holes with tape installed. Remove tape, apply a sealant to studs, wrap studs inside of trunk lid with butyl tape and bolt down spoiler. Butyl tape will squish into place sealing the studs.
I would never trust a template.

Everett's method is foolproof IMHO. :yes:

I would drill the holes "slightly" oversize to allow aligning the spoiler perfectly.
 

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I guess you're telling me not to get a pre-drilled decklid?

What about the quality of the pressings? Any thoughts on new vs old, American vs Asian?
 

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It is possible to find good factory trunklids.. used... which is way better than any repro part.. a few months ago at the Nashville swap meet, someone had a near perfect condition pace car trunk lid for sale for less than $100... (Yes, I should have bought it, but didn't need it)...
 
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