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Discussion Starter · #361 ·
Now that the motor and components are all fitting together, I wanted to focus on the systems that I'm changing up and getting them ready to fire up the motor. One thing that I wanted to do is adding a fuel door in the event that I ever needed to change out my fuel pump assembly and/or upgrade the pumps. It will make the job soo much easier/quicker in the future. I wanted to make it sort of look like it could have come this way so I wanted to blend in the bead rolls. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.

Here's the starting point where I hacked it away.



I made some pie cuts on the bead rolls then used a hammer and dolly to flatten them out. One side popped up and the other side popped down. Once it was all flat, I used my mig to weld it back together then ground it all flush with a flap disk.



I used some sprayed the door with etch primer, seam sealed the bottom side, then topped it off with some satin black to blend it in with the existing trunk. Once I get the truck cleaned out, I'll go back and spray it over with some trunk splatter paint to give it a more original look.







Tank is installed for good now.



I talked with Carl at Vaporworx and ordered some parts to finish up the install of the PressureWorx kit. If I had bought new I would have had all the terminals and wiring, but since I got it second hand, I needed a few of the terminals. He was super helpful and got back to me right away. Excellent customer service. It's also worth pointing out one reason why I'm so glad that I upgraded to the PWM, since I found some previous work that wasn't my best. I don't remember the soldering being this bad, but check out the corrosion. I believe I did this about 3 years ago, so it happened pretty quickly. This most certainly would have failed at some point in the near future. It pulled apart when I gave it a little tug. Per Carl's (and Andrew's) recommendation, I'll be crimping my connections going forward.



As many have likely found out, the backorder on the Terminator X Max kits is pretty extensive with Holley directly. I waited for about a month and in the end just decided to stick with a cable throttlebody, rather than going DBW right now. Maybe when they are back in stock this fall I'll try again. For now I shopped around and found a great deal on a used Nick Williams 92mm. Came with the sensors too which is a big bonus. It fit great, and just barely cleared the PS reservoir. I'm going to make my own version of the Motionworks DBC bracket using a truck cable holder that I've had for a while and good news is my old throttle cable fits with room to spare. WIN.





Moving back to my yoke swap on the rear differential, I started doing some research on the correct seal. I found out that all of the one's that you get at the parts stores and RockAuto are actually meant for truck 12 bolts. Some people used a small 1/8" shim or don't fully tap in the seal to get the right depth. Then I found out that there is one company that does make the correct seal, and it's available at Summit Racing. Ratech RAT-6109 for those interested. This will allow the seal to sit closer to the seal mating surface on the yoke since it sticks out farther.



Timkin vs Ratech.





This along with silicone on the yoke splines should fix my leaky differential. Then more exciting news is my driveshaft from PEM racing came in. I'm very impressed with the quality and how quickly it shipped to me. This is their Drag Racing 3.5" .125" wall driveshaft with 1350 ends and Spicer solid U-joints included. They had the best price by far, and it came with free shipping! I ended up measuring 42" with my combination, but if you are replicating this build measure yours first. The guy I emailed there said that this combo should be good for around 750+HP, so I should be well under this figure.



Installed my Sonnax 1350 ujoint and test fit everything. Looks like I measured spot on with about 7/8" of stick out of the trans.



I ran out of time to get the yoke reinstalled, but the new seal is in. I'll need to torque it and then check the rotational drag with a torque wrench. Then I can button up the driveline and test fit the exhaust. I'm hoping that my mufflers won't be too close, but if not I may have to modify them or possibly replace.

I'm hoping to get out in the garage tonight and get a lot of work done.

Ryan
 

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Discussion Starter · #362 ·
I've been working outside getting the house around for the early spring we are having. It's been nice enough for the last 3 weeks that I could have been driving my car which is extremely rare in NY. I've been plugging away with little projects here and there and have enough content for an update. After reading about all the problems that guys were having with the stock Tremec shifters leaking, I kept my eye out for a good used one and found a great deal on a barely used Hurst shifter. It didn't come with the shifter adapter, but I made one since Holley wanted $94 plus shipping for the little adapter. The shifter feel is much tighter compared to the stock Tremec. I measured before and after since I had the stock one installed at the time. The throw was about 5" from 3rd to 4th with the stock shifter, and 3.25" with the Hurst. This shifter takes out the slop and makes for a more firm shift.



What I started with





Finished product, and also got the boot fit up nicer than I had it last fall.



I have also been working on a DBC throttle bracket for the last few weeks here and there. I finished it up last night and am very happy with how it turned out. 1/8" aluminum plate and a 02ish truck throttle cable bracket that I trimmed the 3rd mount off of. I used a piece of cardboard, then a thin piece of aluminum, then the final piece.





Final product. It works really well and I also have room if I decide to run a cruise control module.



I have also been working on prepping the supercharger for the final install. Now that I confirmed that the snout needed no further porting, I replaced the spring isolator with an Eaton solid unit then silicone'd it all back together with Loctite 598. Note that this is what is supposed to be used, not just any black/gray silicone.







I also bought some aluminum online and made up some plates to reinforce my intercooler brick. I sent those out to be welded and should have them back by the weekend.



Then externally I had to make a clearance for the fuel fitting off of my fuel rail. I added a fuel pressure adapter so that I can put a regular gauge on there in the event I needed another spot to troubleshoot my fuel pressure. At the time I had lost my fitting, but I used this -6AN fitting I had to mock it up. I was positive that one of my boys took it and put it in a drawer or bucket or something. I'm also planning to make a bracket to mount the fill port for the supercharger coolant off of those two holes. Will make for a nice simple bracket to mount that fill port.





Well it wasn't the kids that lost it...



I also starting on my wiring. Carl from Vaporworx recommended 8ga wire from the battery directly to the Pressureworx module, so I'll do just that. I also routed the MAP wires along with the fuel pump wires so that I can utilize the boost referenced feature. Not much to show, but this big mess. I'm glad that I went with Carl's recommendation of 25' of wire because I needed all but about 3'. I was planning on buying 15', but I would have been way short.





I also had a few parts come in from RockAuto. New knock sensors and a really nice molded hose for my booster. Both were really cheap. That molded hose will work perfectly and routes so cleanly around the supercharger. It's the part number for a ZL1 Camaro, but could be the same for a CTS-V. It needs to be modified slightly, but I'll grab a picture when it's installed.





Cheers,
Ryan
 

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Discussion Starter · #363 ·
I made a bunch of progress this weekend and I officially have reached the end of the parts buying stage... well maybe more tires, but you get the idea. Earlier in the week I broke broke down and finally picked up a bigger torque wrench. I've needed one that goes over the 150 lb ft unit that I have a few times now and this seemed like a good time since I had to torque my crank bolt. Before I torqued it though I wanted to pin the crank which as super easy with the kit from LSX Innovations.



I only ordered the torque wrench, but when I looked in my box there was also an extension set. Funny because I've been meaning to buy another 1/2" extension. Thanks AutoZone!



I picked up another crank holding fixture that bolts in place of the starter because surprise, the overseas one that I bought didn't even come close to fitting. I got the one from MAF and it was a perfect fit. After I bolted it in position I torqued the crank bolt per the instructions. Now can I just say that 235 lb ft is a lot of torque! Glad that's over.



Next up was making a bracket to hold my reservoir/ fill cap. For a little bracket like that, it looks simple, but took me a while to get it just right. It sits about an inch higher than the highest part of the brick so it should do it's job to purge all the air out of the system. I want to replace those bolts with some button head or allen socket bolts.



Here is the fuel pressure tester schrader valve I added. Could come in handy someday.



I've been holding off on installing anything on this side of the motor until I got the balancer torqued so I had clear access to the starter area. Installed my eBay find LS3 starter and was anxious to know if it worked. So I installed it, tested the starter solenoid and it easily bumped the motor over. Such a tease...



I also found an nice place to mount my fuel pump controller. Nice and out of the way, on this little mounting plate I made. I have the wires from the battery and crimped the terminals and it's installed on the controller now. Just need to crimp the battery side and then from the controller to the fuel pump itself. Shouldn't be long now and I can test fire the fuel pump and controller. Before I test it though I also need to make a bracket to add the flex fuel sensor inline.





Not sure why I kept putting it off, but I made my fuel crossover too. I used all Racetronix fittings and lines and they installed very easily. Very pleased with them.



I have been working on and off for about 2 weeks trying to figure out the best place to install my catch can. I was hoping to place it roughly in the same spot as the cylinder head mount, but the 8 rib tensioner occupied one of the mounting holes. What I was going to do is shave off 1/4" from the backside of the bracket and then it would bolt in place. Then my father in law came over and said why don't you find a way to maybe bolt it to the tensioner bracket. Then a lightbulb went off and I came up with this pretty clever idea. Since the bolt hole that holds the tensioner on is tapped all the way through and is completely open on the backside, I installed a longer bolt through it and it created a stud that I could use on the backside. Then all I had to do was shorten the bracket that came with it and drill/tap one hole on the bracket. Doesn't harm the integrity of the bracket, creates a nice spot to mount the can low and gives easy access to it for service. Super happy with that install.

Took way more time that I wanted, but I'm super happy with the results. The lines are backwards incase someone notices. I'll need to switch them before I fire up the motor.





Then my last parts showed up. I had a buddy from Florida help me out and welded my brick for me. Shipped it there and back safely so that made me happy. Brian did a great job, thanks again man! For those that don't know, the stock intercooler bricks can collapse from boost even under stock psi. So it's really important to reinforce them, but especially if you overdrive the supercharger like I did.





Then the PLM heat exchanger came in. I've seen a few guys run this in a first gen Camaro one of which was an RS so I know it fits well. I'm going to copy what the RS guy did so I already know how I'm going to mount it. Just need to make a bracket.



I also opted to use the GM Synchromesh which is supposed to be the best for the TR6060 and T56 Magnum's.



Now that the intercooler brick was here I didn't waste any time and got that installed Friday night. Then I kept grabbing parts off my bench and before I knew it, the motor was completely assembled and final torqued.





I'm getting so excited now! My punch list is getting very short and I'm really down to finishing some wiring for the ECU/Fuel pump, bolting my exhaust back on, fill/top off all fluids, prime the motor and send it! I'm hoping to get a few nights in the garage this week and turn the key next weekend.

Cheers,
Ryan
 

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Discussion Starter · #364 ·
I had to pull my tank one last time since I forgot to add a grounding wire to the fuel tank. I got that installed and added a metri-pack connector to for the fuel level sensor so that I can pull the tank quickly if needed. I added a ground wire from from the main battery wire feed for the fuel pump.



Got the tank back in and all the connections made. So glad that I added that trap door.



8 ga wire that splits into the two feeds for the fuel pump. Should be minimal voltage drop from the battery.



The fuel pump module is all done and installed. I'm waiting on some connectors so I still need to hook up the MAP - and MAP signal wires, as well as looming the wiring. But as is, it will control the fuel pump but without those wires it won't be boost referenced.



Before I loom up the engine wiring I wanted to hook everything up to confirm that I don't have any wiring or sensor issues. All the wiring, headers, and coils are now installed on the car. I do need to make a few little clearance dents for the plug wires and access to the plugs. I also bought a longer throttle cable so that I can route it a little more neatly than how it is currently. Otherwise the motor is pretty much in the final stage of assembly.





Hopefully this is helpful for someone out there, but these are the belts I used for the 2.5" upper pulley and the stock CTS-V accessories with the ICT low mount Alternator.



I then moved my attention to the heat exchanger. This was the largest one that I could find that would work with everything in the stock location. I had considered getting a larger exchanger and having some fittings welded to it, but that didn't work out. It would physically fit in the space, but with the hood latch and center brace installed it was clear I would need some major modifications. This exchanger is still much larger than the stock CTS-V and with the upgraded circulation pump, I should be ok. I'll keep an eye on my IAT's once I get the car up and running.









I'm having a little trouble figuring out how I want to mount my coolant circulation pump in order to maximize the flow while keeping it accessible for servicing. I need to get the exchanger final mounted before I can find a final mounting spot. I also found out recently that the pump actually can be run off of PWM. Pin A is ground, B not used, C is PWM+ signal, and D is 12v Ignition. Most people tie the C and D pins together which makes the pump run at 100% duty cycle. My thought is that I can use Holley to control the circulation and use IAT's as my trigger to increase the duty cycle. For now I'm going to wire it for the pump to run 100% because I just want to get the car up and running right now, but this is a project for later this summer I think. I still need to do more research since Holley only has a PWM- output, so getting the PWM- signal to PWM+ is my homework.

If I can get out into the garage tonight I'm pretty sure that I can start the car tomorrow!
 

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Discussion Starter · #365 ·
Close but no cigar... I worked from 8 - 2am Friday night and didn't quite get it all finished up. I probably could have gotten it to the point of firing this weekend if I chose to not install the flex fuel sensor now. I went back and forth because I don't "need" it, but it's something I eventually want to play with. It would be a huge PITA to do it when the hood is back on so I bit the bullet.

I wanted to focus on getting the fuel system finished up, so the flex fuel sensor was next up on that list. Like always, I mocked it up with cardboard first, then used my final material. Version 1.0 I was planning on using two small bolts to hold on the bracket, but after getting it fit up in there, I realized that I could use one of the mounting studs off of the brake booster and it would give me more clearance around everything.







The fuel lines are always a discussion, but I've been very happy with using the Nylon fuel lines and Dorman fittings. Here's how I've always done them and have had great success. Caulk gun method requires you to use a two post caulk gun and a brake flare tool. It really couldn't be any easier. If it's your first time doing it, I'd suggest using a practice piece to make sure you have the right clamping force and pressure. Position the fuel line in the brake flare tool, use the fitting to measure the correct depth so you can have the right amount of stick out, make sure the line and fitting are both centered in the caulk gun, then slowly press the fitting in. I pressed mine in dry, but you could also use a window cleaner or something that would evaporate to make the press a little easier. If you get the right amount of clamping pressure there is minimal amount of marks left by the brake flare tool. I used a little heat to form the tighter bends around the wiper motor and it was a perfect fit! Very happy with the install.







Fuel system is now fully plumbed and wired up. I bought 10 gallons of fresh 93 octane so I'll fill the tank and then I can check for leaks. Now I can move onto the heat exchanger install. I welded a few flange nuts to the core support and drilled a few holes into the aluminum angle iron to hold it to the car. Then after shuffling the heat exchanger around side to side, I found the best position for functionality and aesthetics. I wanted it both centered in the grill, and also not interfere with the RS headlight doors or the center mount. Once I was happy I drilled the holes for the HX mounts.



The HX will be leaned back about 1/2" in, but for the picture was leaned forward.



Lower mounts, done. Now onto the upper mounts. After scratching my head and looking for pieces of metal for inspiration I found what I needed. Sorry honey, we don't need this shelf anymore. Haha. Hot rodding at it's finest. These little brackets were perfect for what I needed. I'm so happy with the way that they turned out. I literally just put a few bends in them and tweaked slightly and they fit like it was made for this application. The two HX mounting holes on each bracket were perfectly spaced, just needed to be slightly drilled out. I had targeted a hole on the upper core support and the hole on the bracket lined up and was centered perfectly!







I figured that I got lucky on the first one and it would take more effort to mirror the second one. The car gods were looking out for me and I matched the same angle as the passenger side and it fit identical to the other side!! I was so shocked that it worked out that nicely for me. That had to be one of the easiest jobs I've done on this car.







Then I reinstalled the radiator. I love bolting on existing parts. A few bolts and one wiring connector. Lower hose was the same, but I'll need a new upper to be made/bought.



 

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Discussion Starter · #366 ·
I also had to figure out what to do with the booster hose. The ZL1 hose I bought is 1/2", but the booster fitting I have is 3/8". After looking around my garage I found a cap that just happened to have the same OD as the ID of the 1/2" hose. So I cut the end off of it and installed the sleeve. The hose also was a two piece design with a coupler in the middle. So shortened center of the hose and put it all back together. Couldn't ask for better fitment.





I was able to reuse my metal tube for the CAI by shortening it by ~5" and tweaked the mount slightly and it worked like it did with my LS1. I just had to use the 45 degree coupler vs the 90 degree I used before. I think the filter on it now is 6" which could be a restriction so I'm planning to eventually by a 8" or 9" Green Filter. But for now I want to get the car up and running. Easy change later.





I also was playing around with the wiring a bit to see what all needed to be addressed. I wanted to get everything hooked up to confirm that it all functions before I tuck it all up and make it tidy. I've been there before where there is a problem and you have to undo the nice clean work... I built my own 2 pin to 4 pin CAN adapter for my Holley harness, but I built mine from a splitter I bought on eBay. Nicely built splitter, almost a shame to cut it up. I needed the splitter though since I'll be using both my 3.5" touchscreen, USB cable and the Dakota Digital CAN signal for the gauges.



Looks like a terrible mess, but in reality is very close to being done.



I was so happy when I fit my exhaust up that it will clear my new driveshaft. I was thinking I may have to modify it, but so glad I don't have to. I'm really down to some really basic things before I can get fire up the car. Biggest thing is where I want to mount the HX pump and then routing the coolant lines. After that I need to button up some wiring, fill all fluids, bleed my clutch, build/buy a new upper radiator hose, prime the oil pump, and turn the key. I'll plug away at these things this week and maybe I'll take Friday afternoon off.

Cheers,
Ryan
 

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Discussion Starter · #367 ·
That brings me up to the present with my build. Sorry guys, slacked on posting updates here. Hoping to fire it up this Friday or Saturday!
 

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Discussion Starter · #368 ·
Also thought I'd post this up since I had a question about it before. There is a square stock that I welded to the bottom side of the bracket so that it won't rotate.

 

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Discussion Starter · #369 ·
Thanks man, I appreciate that. It's certainly been a juggling act and most importantly, I have a very understanding wife.

Last Friday night I made a big push to button up all of the remaining items on my punch list. The biggest thing was mounting my heat exchanger pump and routing all of the lines without kinking them. I've been thinking about the placement of the lines for about a week now and finally am happy with this location. By mounting it here I didn't need to drill any holes in the core support and the hoses had a sweeping angles so there aren't any hard turns or kinks.





The BMW CWA50 pump uses a quick connect fitting for the inlet, which I was able to source from RockAuto. It was for a heater hose off of a 2005ish VW Golf.



Then I routed all of the hoses as neatly as I could.







Then after final fitment, I realized that I needed to notch the center support bracket just slightly so the heat exchanger bracket I made would fit better.



I painted and reinstalled the upright supports for the heat exchanger. Then reinstalled the center support, horn and hood latch.





I got some black annodized check valves, 3:1 heat shrink with glue, and an assorted clamp set to finish things up.



I'm not sure if it's 100% needed, but I also bought this inline PCV valve that was recommended by Holley per their instructions for their tall valve covers. I may end up removing it since I also have one in my valley cover.



Then it was time to fill or top off all of my fluids. Trans, rear diff, PS pump, and the engine. Not sure if it was entirely necessary, but I used this crazy contraption to pump oil into the galleys. It's hard to say if it worked or not and it was certainly messy.





Then I got everything plugged back in and realized that my GM oil pressure sensor was junk... I figured it was a long shot since it was a used sensor. I ordered two sensors from Lowdollar Motorsports and they showed up really quickly.





After working all night Friday and a few hours Saturday morning now it was time. I set up my base tune, all the fluids were topped off and everything was as ready as it could be. Finally turned the key and it coughed a few times and nothing. Just would crank, no fire. After walking away for a day and coming back I was able to determine that it was a user error. I somehow flipped the odd and even coil connectors so the engine was the equivalent of being 180* out on a motor with a distributor. I didn't have enough time Sunday to work on it any further, but after flipping those quickly on my lunchbreak yesterday, I tried again with success! What a great feeling that it fired up pretty quickly once all the connections were right. I was nervous about the oil pressure since it was a brand new motor, but it came right up within 1-2 seconds and had a steady 60 psi.


Now what was the biggest tease is that I had a stubborn clutch that didn't want to bleed. I had the Speedbleeder from Tick, but it still didn't want to bleed. Since the remote bleeder is so long, I just cracked the bleeder and put it in the reservoir overnight. I went out last night to button up a few coolant hose leaks I had and tried to bleed it again. Then finally after about 5 mins there was a huge bubble that came out of the bleeder and that was it. Clutch pedal was great now. I switched from the 7/8" bore that came with the Tick kit, to a 3/4" bore to make the pedal a little softer. Last year I found that the clutch was very touchy and had a very narrow window for a perfect release. I'm very happy with the slightly longer travel and not having the pressure so heavy. Should make for a much more enjoyable drive.

I cleaned everything up and snapped a few pictures. Very pleased with the outcome. The weather is supposed to be decent at lunchtime today so I'm going to get some break in miles under my belt.









Cheers,
Ryan
 

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Pretty sweet man. Almost ready for the first cruise?
 

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Spoiler alert, he's already done the first cruise. Been following this cool build over on LS1Tech where his updates have been more frequent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #372 ·
You caught me. I've had it out a few times. Here's my post from last week:

I am happy to report that I was able to take the car out on the maiden voyage with the new drivetrain. Since I'm still working from home I was able to get the car out for 20 mins or so on my lunchbreak. Keep in mind that the motor is a fresh rebuild so I need to take it easy for the first few hundred miles. Although I have a buddy who brought up a good point. When you buy a crate motor, or any of the engine rebuilders, they break the motor in for about 15-20 mins., then put it right on the engine dyno for full WOT pulls. He's built hundreds of motors and helped with countless others at a big shop down in Charlotte. So I trust what he says, but still made me nervous haha.

That said, I didn't take the car over 4k rpms this time. I was listening for any strange motor sounds, driveline vibrations, watching the oil pressure, watching IAT's (can get very hot because of the supercharger), watching coolant temp, feeling out the transmission, shifting gears, getting a feel for the new clutch and etc. I'm happy to report that the oil pressure cold was about 60 psi, and warm idle was around 35 psi. Right where I wanted them to be. IAT's were higher than I'd like, so I need to check into that. Coolant also got warmer than I'd like at around 200-205. Fans come on around 195, and before with the LS1 it would hit about 198 and then drop to 185 pretty quickly. I think there may be a bubble in the motor somewhere.

The transmission was also something I have been worried about since I tore it completely down. I'm happy to report that it shifts great, and the Hurst Blackjack shifter makes for an incredibly short shift. That is something I need to get used to. It's about a ~3" throw, which is much different than the Pro 5.0 that I had last year. I also now know what everyone means by the T56 being a notchy transmission. Whenever I would change gears last year there was always this little mechanical "notch" that you would feel before you went into a gear. 4th gear in particular had a notch that was more pronounced and would actually grind occasionally which I think was a bad synchro. This year is completely different. Gear shifts are buttery smooth and it just slides into gear. I'm so happy that I didn't seriously mess something up when I re-assembled as well as that the trans was healthy since it was a used unit. VERY happy about that. The transmission shifting is so smooth with the gear shifts which is something I pleasantly surprised with.

Another thing that I changed was something I had planned on doing regardless of my engine/trans swap. I am running a 4th gen Camaro clutch master kit from Tick and when you get it from them it comes with a 7/8" bore Tilton unit. While this makes for a short throw, it makes the clutch pedal more stiff and also made for a very narrow window for a smooth gear change. I swapped it out for a 3/4" unit that added ~1.5" to the throw, but is so much more enjoyable to shift gears. The sweet spot for clutch engagement is wider so it takes less thought to shift smoothly as well as a more stock feeling pedal feel. I'd say it's only slightly more stiff than "stock", but it's to be expected with a twin disk clutch.

So far I've only had one leak, which was an easy fix since it was just a coolant hose. Needed a different hose clamp since the one I had was a little wonky. My diff isn't leaking which is a huge win!

Overall I couldn't be happier with my first outing, and my first impressions are that this is going to be a beast of a car. I kept running out of gear when I would hit the throttle. I have a lot of work to do on my tune, but the engine would pull hard. Chirps the tires without trying to. :shock: It's really going to be a handful, and I like that.

It's funny I'm relived that the car is back up and running again, but now I have a laundry list of things that I need to do to get the car running better.

Figure out why the coolant temp is getting higher
Why I have higher IAT's ~60 degrees over ambient
Lower the fuel pressure. Since I have 850cc injectors for when I run flex fuel, I lowered to 43psi in the tune, but my actual is about 65-67psi.
It surges at idle when hot, so I need to adjust the blade position and/or adjust the IAC settings
Integrate VSS into the tune so that I can have the reverse lockout function like stock. Right now I have it set to activate when the TPS is under 2%, but when I lift to shift it was open, so that's not good. I think I'll add a secondary condition to something like MAP input.
General cleanup of the tune
Need to replace my battery. It is weak and didn't want to re-start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #373 ·
Since then, I was able to get my fuel pressure adjusted very easily with the Vaporworx module. Just a little screw that needed to be turned to get my fuel pressure down to 43 psi. Then once that was adjusted and the fuel table was adjusted, I was able to set the idle. That cured the hunting idle.

My IAT's have leveled out and are right around 15-20 over ambient. Must have had a bubble or something and it has bled out now.

Overall super happy with the swap. I need to address a leaking trans cooler line and re-adjust the clutch master, and keep driving it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #374 ·
Ok, time for an update! I've mostly been driving the car and tweaking my tunes to get the car to perform how I want it. I'm no professional by any stretch of the imagination, but I've got the car running pretty good. One little detail was just not right for me however. The engine wasn't building boost the way that I was expecting and to be honest, I was a little disappointed. It didn't want to build any boost over 100 kpa (0 psi, WOT, or atmosphere) in gears 1, 2, or 3. It would start to build about 4-5 psi in 4th gear, and I would see full boost 11-12 psi (180ish KPA) in 5th and 6th. While glad to see the boost numbers, the upper gears aren't ideal for building the boost on the street. After spending hours reading on the internet and the owner of Boost District, Roshan and I did a video chat. Can't say enough good things about that customer service, especially since I wasn't even a customer of his! Would direct anyone to his site if you are thinking of an LSA supercharger, or parts for one.

During the chat he had me do a few diagnostic checks and confirmed that everything was functioning correctly. I was leaning toward it, but he was convinced that it was a weak bypass valve that was causing the issue. Basically anytime the vacuum drops below about 70kpa, the motor should be building boost. That generally comes on right off of idle around 1200-1500 rpm.

I bought a new Bypass valve and compared it with the old one. While the old one looked to be in good shape, the spring tension on the new was noticeably more stiff and did hold the vacuum better. I got it installed Saturday afternoon and took it around the block for a test drive. Now, with the old bypass the thought went through my mind, "What is all the fuss over these superchargers?". After the new fully functioning bypass installed I totally understand what the fuss is all about. It felt like a completely different car and was blowing the tires on command. I was starting to build boost right off of idle, and would quickly ramp up to 200 kpa (14psi) in any gear now. What a simple fix and what a night and day difference! I only got a chance to do a quick drive, but what a difference that made. I'm not 110% happy with this swap, and is fully meeting my expectations of what the LSA supercharger would do. Time to change my pants and get more seat time, haha.

Earlier in the week I was browsing the Holley FB posts and came across a guy selling a Terminator X Max ECU and wideband sensor for not much more than a new stock X ECU. Both were new and never installed because he immediately upgraded to Dominator. I sent him a message and he came down on his price even more, so I bought it. When I first bought my Terminator X, I didn't go with the X Max because I had no plans to go DBW or Auto trans, but what I didn't realize until afterwards that you can easily use the speed sensor input for the auto trans for the T56. The trouble with the VSS signal with the T56 is that Holley won't read a VR sine wave signal, but would need a square wave signal to read properly. But the X Max can read that signal. What it is important for me is now I can easily use an output to control my Reverse Lockout. I can also now upgrade to use the DBW throttlebody in the future. I have the pedal and TB, just need the harness to complete.



Here is a J4 connector and pins so that I can give Holley the VSS signal from my trans. I also found out that pin B17 is an input for the trans temperature and because my TR6060 hybrid trans has a temp sensor on it, I'm going to tap into it and see if it will read properly.



When I build my glove box panel, it was just big enough for the base X ECU, but the X Max is a little over 2" longer so I had to modify my panel. It's not pretty, but it is hidden. Had to drill some holes to access the upper mounting holes for the ECU.





All tucked away and reinstalled. It took a little bit of playing around, but I got the settings right to have the ECU read speed and the reverse lockout functions just like stock. Love that!!



I also ordered a set of 3" mandrel bent tailpipes for 67-69 Camaro hoping that they would be able less work to bolt in. Wrong, they didn't even come close with my mufflers. Now I need to decide if I want to get new mufflers and then make it all work, or add these tailpipes to what I have now. Flowmaster super 60's. My car sounds amazing, but is just too loud. I need to quiet it way down. Any muffler suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Leaning towards Hooker Aeroflow.





Lastly for this update, I noticed after my drive Saturday that my shifter is now leaking... It's a Hurst Blackjack shifter and I love the feel of how it shifts and is very precise. I'm going to call them to see what can be done to fix this leak. I think it's coming up the seal and into the top cup. It's on top of the shifter plate, so I'm confident it's not the shifter base seal. The top plate comes off with 4 allen keys, so I'm going to pull that off and see if I can possibly clean it up and seal with silicone or what Holley tech has to say.





Hopefully I can get my mufflers quieted down, seats bolted back in and can take the family out for a cruise. I have about 30 more miles before I change out the break in oil and cut open the oil filter. The motor feels really tight, but I want to cut the filter just to know what's going on inside the motor.

Cheers,
Ryan
 

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Stop it! You’re making me want to supercharge mine lol.

I hate Flowmasters....I don’t care what series they are they just drone. I’ve owned a bunch of them over the years and when I was younger it didn’t matter but now I will not put up with the drone anymore.

My Camaro has the Hooker Blackheart mufflers and I love them. Great mellow sound when cruising and deep idle tones. Whe you stomp on it they bark as good as anything else. Oh, and NO DRONE which is the best part.
 

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Discussion Starter · #377 ·
350ss, haha you'll love it. If you were closer to NY I'd say we could meet up and I'll take you for a spin. You'd be shopping for one on the way home. I can't wait to get my clutch and engine break-in time over and I can find an empty parking lot. :cool:

Thanks Tony.
 

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Tim - The Northwest 1969 Camaro
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Interesting read. When you first started talking about your boost issues I remember thinking to myself the entire point of a roots type supercharger (not 100% sure what you are running has vanes but I'm rolling with it) is no turbo lag lol. They are meant to provide compressed air from RPM 1 through whatever. Glad you got it squared away, sounds great. I can second what Matt said above. I have the blackheart mufflers and I really like them. I think I posted a video somewhere you can hear them idle. When you punch it they punch it but none of that undertone, filling vibrating drone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #379 ·
I appreciate the input guys. After reading and watching a bunch of videos I bought a pair of Borla ProXS mufflers yesterday. They are supposed to be one of the quietest mufflers on the market, yet best performing. I will have a full 3" exhaust so I want to quiet it down as much as I can. Right now it scares the kids and neighbors when I start it up. I'd like to go on a cruise with the wife and kids soon so that is a big priority for me right now. They should be here tomorrow, so fingers crossed it is what I want.
 
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