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You're very welcome, Glad to see you put them to good use. Honestly, I just wanted to be able to say I helped with such a great build.. LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #423 ·
Continuing on the assembly of my rear differential, I installed and torqued down my ARP Wheel studs to match the front. I've never used a screw in stud before, but according to Yukon I added some high strength thread locker and torqued to 90 lb ft. I actually used 95 lbs just because. Before that I also cleaned up the mating surfaces since they were raw uncoated. I just found some gray paint that I had left over.





Once they were installed, I put the C Clips in and the puck that comes with the TrueTrac. I really like that little puck instead of the pin in the Eaton copy because there is hardly any endplay in the axles now. I also like how the puck is retained in the carrier with the clip. Very nice design overall.





Another little adjustment that I needed to make was how I mounted the brake lines. Where they were on the top of the axle housing rubbed on the exhaust tail pipes, which I didn't realize until I was taking out the differential. So I cut them off and rotated down where the stock lines would have been. I didn't get a picture, but because of the relocation, I had to bend up some new lines to meet up. Both ended up a little short so I used some extra line I had.







Once the new lines were finished, back in the car she goes. Just needs to be filled with oil and that's a done deal.



Good news is that the Rocket wheels fit the rear! So they will work for rears if someone is interested.



Now that the rear is back together, it's time to start on the frame connectors! Out goes the interior. I'll need to modify the rear seat frames anyway for the mini-tubs so I needed the back seats out anyway.





First up before I did any cutting was to make sure that the frame was square. Now I thought it was good to go, but I never had a tape measure on it. Glad I did because I was out of square by about 3/16". Also the frame measured 1/2" more forward on the passenger side from the same reference point on the rear frame. I basically loosened up 3 body bolts and the 2 core support bolts. I left the short side rear frame bolt tight, then pulled on the passenger side wheel with some jackstands under the body and the weight taken off the frame. Worked great. I had to do that twice to get it to move enough, but after that I was 1/16" out of square, and the frame was only 1/16" forward now. Close enough for me.



Cut out my templates and laid them out roughly where they will go.





So because I had to take out the battery and battery tray to get to the core support bolts I figured I'd also install my new coolant overflow tank. It's from a 75-79 Chevy Nova and fits really nicely in the passenger fender space that is unoccupied.





It has a nice single mounting tab that meets up nicely with the ridge on the passenger fender too.





Almost invisible now. You can see the old overflow I had. When I had my 14" fan it was tucked down nice and low, but after the C7 fan was installed, I had to relocate to the fender brace temporarily.



Here's what it looked like before. Not a great picture, but you can see it doesn't flow in that location.



That's all for now. Hoping to start on the passenger side frame connector tonight.

Cheers,
Ryan
 

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Ryan, nice work on the rear end, should be able to handle that extra power you have now. I've got a 8.5" truetrac that's in the works with 30 spline Moser axles for later on in the year.
Its great to be able to do a lot of the work yourself while saving some dough. Simon.
 
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