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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys - I recently installed the Edelbrock Performer E-tec 170 top end kit on my original 327. This was an original 210HP version with a 2 barrel.

Anyway, Edelbrock suggests a 1.5 roller rocker and stock size pushrods (7.191). This said, I ordered Summit 1.5 roller rockers and 7.191 pushrods because that's what size Edelbrock said came stock. I found out during brake-in that something was definitely wrong because I heard a chatter shortly after and shut it down to find out that I had two of the rockers back out and come off the stud. I found out that I didn't tightem the polylockas properly. Apparently you're suppossed to adjust them, back them off a quarter turn and then lock them and retighten back from the quarter turn. This may have been most of my problem but also am finding that 7.191 was not the stock size and that 7.8 is.

Does anyone know what the correct stock pushrod length is?
 

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"Stock" (pre GM Roller) = 7.794" ;)

'Stock' GM Roller = 7.164"
 

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Do not rely on the numbers.
Machined blocks,machined heads,aftermarket stuff,gasket thickness,lifters used,rockers used, all play a part in the correct length. Measure... then order what you need :yes:
 

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they are right -always check for proper length-clean the valve stem -smear a light coat of grease over stem and re-install rocker to zero lash and roll over motor -inspect location on stem -roller marks should be in center of stem --push rod too short, the marks will be on top side of stem
 

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Do not rely on the numbers.
Machined blocks,machined heads,aftermarket stuff,gasket thickness,lifters used,rockers used, all play a part in the correct length. Measure... then order what you need :yes:
X2 always measure
 

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Guys - this isn't the "Performance" forum ;)

He's obviously not going for a all-out street HP build here, just trying to get a little bit more out of a 'stock' 327/210!
He's not 'Zero-Decking' for max compression, angle milling the heads to reduce chamber cc (or even fitting the latest trick head confiquration needing custom pushrod lengths), changing Rocker ratios and other common mods required for a max efficiency HP build ... so matching pushrod length to lever is just not necessary at this point :noway:

I also read into the post he's not as mechanically inclinded as some and needed a base number to get his engine back operating correctly so he can enjoy his modifications to date ...

Lets get the correct 'stock' pushrods back in there, get the valve train adjusted correctly for his performance level and go from there.
If he posts back he's ready to move on to the next level, I'll be among the first to explain optimizing the ratio, centering the rocker contact and getting the system adjusted correctly :yes:
As I have in many other posts where the OP asked for that level of information ...

As always JMHO
 

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Guys - this isn't the "Performance" forum ;)

He's obviously not going for a all-out street HP build here, just trying to get a little bit more out of a 'stock' 327/210!
He's not 'Zero-Decking' for max compression, angle milling the heads to reduce chamber cc (or even fitting the latest trick head confiquration needing custom pushrod lengths), changing Rocker ratios and other common mods required for a max efficiency HP build ... so matching pushrod length to lever is just not necessary at this point :noway:

I also read into the post he's not as mechanically inclinded as some and needed a base number to get his engine back operating correctly so he can enjoy his modifications to date ...

Lets get the correct 'stock' pushrods back in there, get the valve train adjusted correctly for his performance level and go from there.
If he posts back he's ready to move on to the next level, I'll be among the first to explain optimizing the ratio, centering the rocker contact and getting the system adjusted correctly :yes:
As I have in many other posts where the OP asked for that level of information ...

As always JMHO
Understood.... but he swaped heads which means gaskets,and rockers...all bets are off. Better to check and be safe IMO.
 

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Understood.... but he swaped heads which means gaskets,and rockers...all bets are off. Better to check and be safe IMO.
I agree Doug whenever you swap to aftermarket alum heads you should always check pushrod length.I went to dart heads and every one of my intake pushrods were hitting had to have them clearanced,although stock length worked in my situation i know others that it did not.
 

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when you build engines , you chek everything and clearances regardless-if this was done-it would have been caught before even firing-atleast that is what i do in my 30 yrs building
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Sorry guys....just now getting back to the forum.

Not sure how to take the comments from Vintage 68...... I am mechanically inclined and do have experienced in building engines. It's just that this is my first roller valvetrain engine. I marked my valve stems and retightened my rockers, went through a full rotation and they are spot on as far as centered throughout the full travel of the roller on the stem. My entire issue turned out to be proper tightening of the polylocks....

I was mostly concerned with what the stock lenth was because Edelbrock said that 7.191 was stock and it didn't make sense to me as the roller lifters sit so much higher.
 

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.... Not sure how to take the comments from Vintage 68...... I am mechanically inclined and do have experienced in building engines. It's just that this is my first roller valvetrain engine. ...

I was mostly concerned with what the stock lenth was because Edelbrock said that 7.191 was stock and it didn't make sense to me as the roller lifters sit so much higher.
Since your OP was;

... I recently installed the Edelbrock Performer E-tec 170 top end kit on my original 327. This was an original 210HP version with a 2 barrel. ...

... Apparently you're suppossed to adjust them, back them off a quarter turn and then lock them and retighten back from the quarter turn. This may have been most of my problem but also am finding that 7.191 was not the stock size and that 7.8 is.

Does anyone know what the correct stock pushrod length is?
Two things in the OP were, I thought, fairly obvious ...
1 - you were just upgrading a stock 327/210 with a 'kit' for a little performance improvement and some 'bling' - not doing a HP build using performance matched aftermarket intake, heads/valve train and cam for max. output ...
2 - you didn't really understand the standard procedure for setting up a valve train ...

Sorry to insult your intelligence with my reply - I just didn't want the replies to drive you off into another geometry area, in search of your OP request to get the 'stock' pushrod information ...
I'll stay out of your posts - you obviously know what your doing ;)

Back to building my 'little' (vs. >1000ci anyway) engines ...
 
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