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Discussion Starter · #801 · (Edited)
Good to see you starting on the washer setup Lloyd. Do you still have the special "Y" connector? I think still have some I made. I was starting to repro the 'barrel' connector too, but that project fizzled out :(
Yes, I do have the Y connector, thanks Kevin. I also have the anti leak-down valves.
 

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Discussion Starter · #802 · (Edited)
Thanks guys, after a closer look at the other hoses (yellow, green and "red") I plan to correct them all.
Worked on the green and red RS hoses today, just don't like the stripe color used on the reproduction hoses. The green stripe on my original vacuum hose is significantly different than the bright green, near teal used by the repro parts manufacturer as shown below. I was able to match the original color pretty close with an acrylic craft paint, Liquitex Chromium Oxide Green.

Reproduction green stripe RS vacuum hose top, original below


Liquitex Chromium Oxide Green (beside original hose)


As with the repro fuchsia stripe change to orange shown earlier in the thread, I first stripped the bright green stripe off the hoses (3) using Xylene.


Applied the pinstripe stencil, and this time, added masking tape to secure the hoses to the worktable and reduce paint cleanup from the roller application




Newly painted green hose stripe top, reproduction below


Vacuum hoses have been re-striped and onto the test fit. The short yellow striped hose required a thinner stripe as per the originals.

 

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Discussion Starter · #803 · (Edited)
Another detail I devoted some time to today was replacing the incorrect harness bracket that is used to secure the starter / solenoid harness to the bellhousing. On replacement harnesses, the bracket used varies from the original. The best repro bracket I've seen is on the harness supplied by D&R who sources them from M&H Electric in Santa Fe Springs CA. I used a complete harness from American Autowire who suppled a gold zinc plated bracket shown below, which differs significantly from originals that were non-plated (natural) and vulcanized where the bracket attaches to the harness bundle.

American Autowire starter harness with bellhousing harness bracket circled in red



An original harness bracket shown on an untouched 13,000 mile 1969 Camaro SS L78


Original harness bracket


Restored



Harness bracket installed. As the wiring harness and the bracket were installed AFTER the engine and transmission were painted, the transmission-to-block bolt and immediate area would show tool marks from the bolt being removed then reinstalled to add and secure the bracket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #804 · (Edited)
The windshield washer pump wasn't working prior to its removal ..and it could use a freshening anyway..., I decided to source a few readily available NOS service parts including a new piston assembly, nozzle o-ring kit and donor pump.

Original washer pump with NOS donor left


Cracked pump piston housing

Replacement parts, valve kit and piston assembly



I started by completely disassembling the pump down to the base plate, solvent tanking, then a light polish with 0000 steel wool followed by lubing the moving assembly with lithium grease.



Original and NOS plastics are bone colored / off-white while reproduction plastics tend to be a bright white. Here, the NOS piston assembly is being installed. There is a groove in the base plate and on the sides of the piston housing where the piston assembly slides into. The spring loaded piston needs to be partially depressed into the bore to extend the metal connecting rod and held in position in order to slide the actuating lever over both rods / posts fixed in the base.




Next the ratcheting drum and retainer pin is added to the base.





The electrical assembly is then added. The plastic extension hooks onto the center post, the spring and rod is inserted as shown then the assembly hooks onto the base.




The pawl and spring are re-installed and held in place by a c-clip

 

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Discussion Starter · #805 · (Edited)
The plastic ratchet pawl is re-installed with an original clutch screw which also secures the electrical assembly to the base. This photo is from disassembly.


A new o-ring seal is added to the top of the piston case followed by a 3 part o-ring seal and the new nozzle cap. The original NL & C head marking screws were re-installed.



Original nozzle cap screws, 3 NL and 1 C re-plated



Below are 3 washer pump covers, the 2 shown on the top are from original, factory installed washer pumps and the 1 on the bottom with the Made in USA. script is from an NOS pump. I restored my original pump cover and the
69 stamp. I couldn't determine if there were additional characters stamped on the cover that may have dissolved over time and maybe the stamp was originally a date code? Any input / clarification based on original cover stampings would be appreciated.



The restored primary washer pump was bolted to the wiper motor backing plate using the 2 original, re-plated, NL head marking bolts with captured star washers.


The RS headlight washer solenoid was bolted to the motor plate from the back with its 2 original, re-plated slotted fasteners. These are unique to the solenoid.


A firewall seal gasket is added to the back of the restored RS wiper-washer prior to re-installation. As the 2 hash marks are aligned, the wiper motor is in the "park" position.


The restored and detailed wiper-washer with hoses and jumpers added, ready for re-installation.


 

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Discussion Starter · #806 · (Edited)
A couple of notable details about the RS washer pump system.
Indications are that early cars used black jumper wires with a red stripe whereas mid year and later cars used solid brown/beige wires as shown below. Reproduction jumper wires use incorrect brown rather than black terminal connectors.


For RS (UPC CE1) optioned cars the main washer pump feeds the headlight nozzles rather than the windshield washers. The pump's fluid output from both nozzels is combined through a black "Y" connector, as shown, which is not currently reproduced (reproduction hose kits include a 90 degree white "T" connector).



The supplementary washer pump coil mounted above the wiper motor supplies washer fluid to the windshield nozzles (rather than the headlight nozzles). Fluid is directed through the front facing nipple on the pump coil via a short length of hose then redirected through a one-way anti-leakdown T valve to each windshield nozzle. According to former GM Engineer John H (John Z), the valve serves to retain washer fluid in the hose/nozzle so it's available on-demand and doesn't siphon back to the fluid reservoir which is a considerable distance. These valves (PN 4919503) are not currently reproduced. Discussion on CRG about the correct color of the valves suggests that RS optioned cars (and non-RS UPC CE1 optioned) may have received off-white (bone) colored valves or all black. From what I've read on the Corvette forum, all black valves were used in 1969 production and off-white valves in 1970. My 2B Norwood car had its original black valves. Note the jumper wires are fed under the wiper motor rather than over it.

 

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Nice work as usual! I would love to see the car one day when you are finished and have it at a show. Do you think you will be done this year?
 

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Discussion Starter · #808 ·
Nice work as usual! I would love to see the car one day when you are finished and have it at a show. Do you think you will be done this year?
Thanks Tony, yes I'm hoping to finish the car this year providing I can muster the time. My goal is to show it at MCACN in November if all goes well!
 

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Discussion Starter · #809 · (Edited)
Working on installation of the front turn signal assemblies. RS' through January / February 69 received a signal lens with stainless trim and with the inside of the lens surround painted Argent Silver. Backing plates were plated gold dichromate (not gold or silver zinc), bulbs used were the painted style rather than modern translucent tinted bulbs, and the lens attaching screws were stainless with a pointed, chisel tip. Lens gaskets were off-white foam.

Restored original front turn signal backing plates re-plated gold dichromate (I can't take credit for the restoration of these). Made in USA stamped, retaining nuts use a captured star washer.



Lens with stainless trim and Argent Silver paint on serrated reverse side of lens surround






Original style painted 1157 bulbs on right vs modern translucent tinted bulbs on left



Lens retaining screws, re-polished stainless, chisel point.


Original lens gaskets (PN 5961316) were an off-white, dense foam construction vs currently available reproduction gaskets that are gray synthetic rubber. The gasket can be seen when the lens is installed.




Gasket visible through installed turn signal lens.


Installed front turn signal assembly.


 

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I’m not on here much anymore but while looking for something I rediscovered this thread. Lloyd I’ve gotta say between you and Chick, you guys have the 68/9 Z restoration guide down to an art. Well done.
 

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I spent the last few days of my spare time reading EVERY page of this and I don't think I have ever seen this level of attention to detail on a restoration. Your knowledge, talent, and patience is something most of us can only dream of. You are truly an artist.
Thank you very much for taking the time, not only with the incredible restoration, but posting detailed explanations as you worked through it. For someone willing to take the time to read every post in this thread there is a lot of knowledge to be gained. I learned a few things and made a mental "punch-list" of things that will be improved on my car as a result of your hard work and willingness to share your knowledge here with us.

Thank you for taking the time to share, you contribution here is very much appreciated.

Oh yea.....COOL CAR!! I have been wanting to make the short ride up to Chicago for the MCACN, looks like I will get to see this in person this November- I can't wait!
 

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Original lens gaskets (PN 5961316) were an off-white, dense foam construction vs currently available reproduction gaskets that are gray synthetic rubber. The gasket can be seen when the lens is installed.
Hey Lloyd, it's all coming together brilliantly! I'm using the Soff Seal gaskets for my lights. The off white color is also closer to the originals.


White Dishware Font Porcelain Wood
 

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Discussion Starter · #813 ·
I’m not on here much anymore but while looking for something I rediscovered this thread. Lloyd I’ve gotta say between you and Chick, you guys have the 68/9 Z restoration guide down to an art. Well done.
Darrell, thanks for the feedback, its very much appreciated. I have been following your preservation project on SYC with keen interest as well.

I spent the last few days of my spare time reading EVERY page of this and I don't think I have ever seen this level of attention to detail on a restoration. Your knowledge, talent, and patience is something most of us can only dream of. You are truly an artist.
Thank you very much for taking the time, not only with the incredible restoration, but posting detailed explanations as you worked through it. For someone willing to take the time to read every post in this thread there is a lot of knowledge to be gained. I learned a few things and made a mental "punch-list" of things that will be improved on my car as a result of your hard work and willingness to share your knowledge here with us.

Thank you for taking the time to share, you contribution here is very much appreciated.

Oh yea.....COOL CAR!! I have been wanting to make the short ride up to Chicago for the MCACN, looks like I will get to see this in person this November- I can't wait!
Thank you for such kind words. We've all learned what we know in this hobby from others and I'm often frustrated when I search for information that proves difficult to find, is fragmented, incomplete or even wrong. There is an investment of time required to write, photograph and publish these posts but if it helps guys out or just creates a dialogue then I'm motivated to continue. Thank you again!
 

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Discussion Starter · #814 ·
Hey Lloyd, it's all coming together brilliantly! I'm using the Soff Seal gaskets for my lights. The off white color is also closer to the originals.
Hey Rob, excellent find, and thanks for posting. Those Soff Seal gaskets are a great alternative to the other available off-color repros. Even better they are made in the US.
 

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Lloyd, all I have to say is WOW........and thanks for the great pictures and updates. You should gather everything in a 69 Camaro restoration book - you'd recoup all the $$ you spent on this museum piece. Keep up the great work!!
 

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Below are 3 washer pump covers, the 2 shown on the top are from original, factory installed washer pumps and the 1 on the bottom with the Made in USA. script is from an NOS pump. I restored my original pump cover and the 69 stamp. I couldn't determine if there were additional characters stamped on the cover that may have dissolved over time and maybe the stamp was originally a date code? Any input / clarification based on original cover stampings would be appreciated.
Yet again this reminds me to never throw out old parts :eek: My cover had been spray bombed but found this after cleaning. The "24 69" is much easier to read than what I could get a picure of.
Blue Rectangle Gadget Font Electric blue
 

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Thanks Tony, yes I'm hoping to finish the car this year providing I can muster the time. My goal is to show it at MCACN in November if all goes well!
Every car my friends restored to concourse quality were driven weekly and never saw a show. Must make you sick to read this. Last frame off car I built was driven down dirt roads and in the rain the same week it hit the road.

I do appreciate your attention to detail and the accuracy you put in the build. Good reference material. I like to drive my cars and do not follow the trailer queen concept.
 

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Working on a few areas so will have more posts over the holidays. In the meantime I got the rear wheel well trim back from polishing so I thought I would install them now rather than risk damage setting them aside for later date. They are NOS and were in ancient packages however they did have some shelf wear so polishing dealt with all that. Originals and some NOS rear wheel well trim have a "C" cut-out as shown on the vertical section of the leading and trailing sides of the trim. They did require some massaging to get them to fit tight to the body and I used a series of small clamps prior to securing them to the fender lip.



Note the C cut-out on the trailing side of the trim
I am in the process of putting wheel well trim on my 69, there are no holes currently in the rear quarter panels.
How is the trim supposed to be orientated in the opening? Meaning, does it go flush with the rear of the opening and let it fall where it does in the front? Is there a specific amount of lip "reveal" for the forward or rearward position?

Also, I ended up with 3 different head sizes of screws for the rears and they all claim to be "correct".
Do you have the size of the screws you used?
 

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Discussion Starter · #819 ·
I am in the process of putting wheel well trim on my 69, there are no holes or anything in the rears.
How is the trim supposed to be orientated in the opening? Meaning, does it go flush with the rear of the opening and let it fall where it does in the front? Is there a specific amount of lip "reveal" for the forward or rearward position?

Also, I ended up with 3 different head sizes of screws for the rears and they all claim to be "correct".
Do you have the size of the screws you used?
I assume you're working with repro moldings as NOS moldings have pre-drilled holes. Here is a photo of the correct style molding screws. I can get you some photos and measurements of the hole locations and lip reveal however they may be cut slightly different that the ones you are installing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #820 · (Edited)
Lloyd, all I have to say is WOW........and thanks for the great pictures and updates. You should gather everything in a 69 Camaro restoration book - you'd recoup all the $$ you spent on this museum piece. Keep up the great work!!
Mike, thanks for the great feedback and I'm glad you're following the build. I'm trying to keep the build "real" as there are lots of examples of over-restored cars out there and my goal is to try to duplicate the way the factory built the car as closely as I can - with all the flaws! Not sure a restoration book is in my future!
 
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