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Discussion Starter · #821 · (Edited)
Yet again this reminds me to never throw out old parts :eek: My cover had been spray bombed but found this after cleaning. The "24 69" is much easier to read than what I could get a picure of.
View attachment 285900
Rob, thanks for posting a photo of your washer motor cover stamp, really helpful! I see the build date of your Z is within 2 weeks of mine (and both Norwood). I don't know if the washers were built in batches (like alternators and distributors) however 24 69 is (now) a known date so I think I'm going to add the 24 to my cover stamp. Another detail from your cover stamp is the orientation of the stamp is the inverse of how I applied mine. That is to say, in your photo the raised boss is on the right side of the photo with the date reading right side up. Mine is upside down to yours...that's because "69" reads the same upside down! Here is my original (partial) washer cover stamp turned the same orientation as yours (plastic boss on the right). The stamps are the same and the partial yellow ink mark to the left of the 69 on my cover likely would have been the 2nd number of the Julian date. When viewed in the engine compartment the date will read upside down. This is great info, thanks again for posting.


 

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Discussion Starter · #822 · (Edited)
Waiting on some washer hoses to arrive, for some reason the Camaro vendor kits don't provide enough hose length for the reservoir-to-washer pump so the supplied hose would have to be stretched - that isn't going to work! The ribbing is now well presented either. The smaller diameter washer fluid hose in the kit that connects the washer pump to the headlight washer T is also incorrect. Once the replacement hoses arrive I'll post more information and the vendor details. In the meantime I'm continuing to build the RS headlight door mechanisms and testing their operation.


Test fit, everything lines up, need to connect the return spring and adjust the turn signal wire grommet.
 

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I am in the process of putting wheel well trim on my 69, there are no holes or anything in the
How is the trim supposed to be orientated in the opening? Meaning, does it go flush with the rear of the opening and let it fall where it does in the front? Is there a specific amount of lip "reveal" for the forward or rearward position?

Also, I ended up with 3 different head sizes of screws for the rears and they all claim to be "correct".
Do you have the size of the screws you used?
Clarify. Never saw moldings without holes. When you say there are no holes do you mean the quarter? Post in the Bodyshop forum.. I've only been doing this professionally four decades.
 

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Rob, thanks for posting a photo of your washer motor cover stamp, that's really helpful! I see the build date of your Z is within 2 weeks of mine (and both Norwood).
My pleasure; I'm happy to be able to contribute something! The NCRS report on mine has 28-Feb as the production date, so its not one of the odd duck March 02D cars. Also just fyi I was browsing through some older posts and don't think the part shown in #363 is a pitman arm?

:rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #826 ·
My pleasure; I'm happy to be able to contribute something! The NCRS report on mine has 28-Feb as the production date, so its not one of the odd duck March 02D cars. Also just fyi I was browsing through some older posts and don't think the part shown in #363 is a pitman arm?

:rolleyes:
Good pickup Rob, its clearly the Idler Arm in #363, I've edited the post. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #827 · (Edited)
Not much time today, decided to focus on a couple of small things I've put off. The front lift hook on my car would have been brush painted dull aluminum. My shop partner had a leftover rattle can of gas tank paint...its dull aluminum with no metallics so it was ideal for what I needed. Sprayed some gas tank paint into a mixing cup and brush painted the hook ensuring brush strokes were visible with over-brush onto the shouldered bolt.


 

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Are you planning to brush-paint the rear hook as well or leave it natural? Some of the numerous threads out there suggest the rear hook and distributor hold-down bracket were sometimes brush-painted silver as well so I’m deciding what to do myself with my 02D Z :unsure:
 

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Discussion Starter · #829 ·
Good question Matt, my understanding is only the front lift hook was brush painted and the rear hook was left natural steel (was the case on my car). I have seen original cars with the front intake manifold plugs brush painted dull aluminum as well as the distributor hold-down bracket. That was not done consistently. I asked one of the senior Legends judges recently what they look for and he replied only the (front) lift bracket so I didn't go further than that. He also stated the front intake manifold plugs should be black (manganese phosphate). Rather than tempt fate I didn't go further with brush painting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #830 · (Edited)
A coupe of miscellaneous updates as I work through the Rally Sport grill and headlight mechanism installation.

Headlight Adjustor Screws - originals were manganese phosphated, have a different head style and a distinct tapered tip (bottom) vs repros which are sold zinc plated (top). This is a Legends judging item.


RS Vacuum Hose Straps and T's - long plastic tie straps, PN 4778650 are used to secure vacuum hoses under the radiator support top bar (3), the windshield washer fluid supply hose to the heater hose (2) and the black vacuum source hose to the RS vacuum tank - to the hose & wire harness bundle on the left side inner fender (2). I refer to them a "long straps" because a shorter version tie strap was used elsewhere in the engine compartment. Original long straps I have seen have mold circles, one on either side of the head slot, vs reproductions that don't. The repro long straps included in the RS hose kits have a locating / retaining pin that originals don't. The tips are slightly different as well.

Original long and short straps (left) vs repro long straps (right).


Mold marks shown on original long strap head (left) vs reproduction (right)


Locating pin on reproduction long straps (2 on left) vs original strap (right)


Original (left) vs reproduction (right) strap tip detail


Repro (top) vs Original (bottom) large RS hose vacuum T's (2 used under radiator support top bar). Other than the color of the plastic, white vs off-white, they are identical.
 

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Discussion Starter · #831 ·
More preparation of the RS grill, adding the headlight washer nozzles and hose connections. As headlight washers were used on other GM cars of the era the nozzle spray angle will differ so they are not interchangeable. For my originals I had them re-chromed and I re phosphated the washers and nuts.

Restored Original RS Headlight Nozzles



Examples of (top) an original nozzle from another GM product (note the spray angle), (center) a reproduction nozzle and (bottom) the restored, original headlight nozzle.


Washer Nozzles installed in the RS grill with Original T's. Installation of the nozzles requires the grill stiffener to be fitted on the grill.





 

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Another detail I devoted some time to today was replacing the incorrect harness bracket that is used to secure the starter / solenoid harness to the bellhousing. On replacement harnesses, the bracket used varies from the original.
Yet another interesting find Lloyd. Its nice the correct clip allows the harness to be detached without removing the bellhousing bolt. In an ealier post you also have the clip on the lower heater box that secures it. The AIM shows this on UPC 1 M2 and again for the L6 engine on UPC 12 A6. I wasn't sure if this was only for the L6... none of my survivor pics have a clear shot. But if you're using it, I want one too :cool:

It appears you have most of the wiring mods sorted out now. I've found several tags on my original harnesses but haven't seen them mentioned in your build. Did you find anything like these?

Automotive lighting Automotive tire Motor vehicle Audio equipment Headgear
 

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Discussion Starter · #833 · (Edited)
Thanks for your post Rob. I discovered there is a difference between the starter wiring harness bracket used on big block vs small block applications. Below is an an example of an original small block bracket which is both longer than the BB bracket and has more vulcanizing. I plan to edit my previous post on the bracket once I restore the replacement SB bracket. About the wiring harness labels, yes I have seen them on original harnesses however I don't know how they decode or how they were used. Its possible they were used to identify sub harness branches by the wiring provider or maybe as a batch or QA mark.
 

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Discussion Starter · #834 · (Edited)
Original Air Cleaner lid decals were made with a foil top layer and adhesive paper backing. Current reproductions are printed on adhesive foil only and lack the old style paper backing. James G describes this perfectly; "they were printed on beer bottle label foil paper". Maybe its just me...but when I see a reproduction decal on an air cleaner lid its decal side profile is "thinner" due to the lack of a paper backing. This difference is about 0.1MM, not a lot. Interestingly this issue came up during Vintage Certification judging of a 1967 Z/28 air cleaner lid at MCACN this past November. Instead of applying the reproduction decal to the lid directly I decided instead to add a paper backing for a more authentic look. As the paper used on original decals was white or off-white stock (see photos) I used a file folder for the paper backing as its thickness and coloring is about right. I traced the decal onto the file folder paper then carefully cut out the tracing using an Exacto knife. I used epoxy glue to first attach the paper backing to the foil decal, with attention to the corners as they tend to curl when subjected to engine compartment heat, then glued the paper backed decal to the air cleaner lid.

Original 302 Air Cleaner lid decals with exposed paper backing



Original decals had the Printed in USA script on the border, not all reproductions have this detail



Cutting the paper backing for the decal from a donor file folder


Finished Decal applied to the "GM chromed" Air Cleaner lid. On the reverse side of the lid is the "straight version" of the Service Instructions





Original Service Instructions script from 1A Norwood build Z/28
 

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It's interesting to see how haphazard the decals were installed. I can see how decals like the trunk stickers were there for info/instructional purposes only so no need for a precise location. But I guess the factory didn't see the need for a template of some sort to position them more accurately even though they are there for engine dress up and looks.
 

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Lloyd, I wish I took a picture, but I just took an original 327 air cleaner foil label off a lid (69 closed version) and NO paper backing. The foil was adhered directly to the painted lid. Maybe there were differences in suppliers?

Wait, I DID take a pic, here it is:

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tin Font Rim


Then I looked at my other lids, I have a 307 and another 327 with the paper backing, hmm...
 

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Discussion Starter · #837 · (Edited)
Kevin it's possible the air cleaner decal in the photo you posted is a reproduction. They've been available for many years which would explain the age. Originals I've seen have the Printed in USA script on the lower border and that one doesn't. Second you mention its a foil only decal. There could have been more than one supplier during the model year however unlikely Chevrolet would have had more than one print spec. Can't say for sure of course but its not consistent with typical production decals.

Here is an original 327 air cleaner decal with the paper backing and Printed in USA script.

 

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Discussion Starter · #838 · (Edited)
It's interesting to see how haphazard the decals were installed. I can see how decals like the trunk stickers were there for info/instructional purposes only so no need for a precise location. But I guess the factory didn't see the need for a template of some sort to position them more accurately even though they are there for engine dress up and looks.
Good observation, there was no location "standard" for the air cleaner lid decal, however despite that I'd say they were generally positioned "straight" or at least "non-crooked" unlike the trunk lid underside Jacking Instructions and Posi Caution decals which were not as you've pointed out. The AIM does specify the location for every decal however there are no measurements.
 

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About the wiring harness labels, yes I have seen them on original harnesses however I don't know how they decode or how they were used. Its possible they were used to identify sub harness branches by the wiring provider or maybe as a batch or QA mark.
I'm pretty sure the id number is the last four digits of the GM part number. The rear harness tag on mine is 1692 which matches p/n 8721692 (all except RS option). The tags on two of my other harnesses likewise use the partial p/n. Since these harness labels can also be found on other Chevy models, I've asked for more information on sYc.
 

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Correct Rob. I ordered a complete set of tags for my L-78 Nova and those last four digits match the part #'s on my Nova as you described.
 
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