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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm getting ready to install sound deadening this weekend and want to really make sure the firewall gets thoroughly treated. The car is a fully-assembled and operating vehicle, so it's not in pieces with easy access to everything. My question is what is the best way to remove enough "stuff" like the heater box, cables, etc. so I can access the interior side of the firewall itself for treatment? Anyone out there that has installed sound deadening (and thermal insulation for that matter) on a finished vehicle that can offer some input? Any tricks, or things to avoid, would be appreciated. Thanks.

Kenny
 

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That’ll be fun....

An exercise in the law of diminishing returns right there....

Don
 
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For you to make it worth doing, in my opinion, you have to almost strip the entire interior. Carpet ,console,seats, heater box,kick panels, all of those need to be removed and treated for it to make it worth the trouble. I did my underside roof inside the doors, firewall, floor, and kick panels. I used the 2 step "sound and heat" lizard skin and then covered with dynamat. Don't know you will notice much difference doing just the firewall. Floor gets hot too.
 

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I was goin to say the same as the others, your car wont be
"a fully-assembled and operating vehicle" for awhile, if you do that the right way.

Take the front seats out and get under there and start removing stuff, may as well rehab your heater if it's been in there a long while. Are you installing a new firewall pad since you have your firewall exposed ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for all of the replies so far. I should have been more clear, I'm not planning on just sound deadening and heat insulating the firewall, I'm removing the entire interior (front and rear seats, carpet, console, etc) and intend to both heat insulate and sound deaden the entire interior and trunk. And yeah, I'm certain it won't be a fully functional vehicle for a period of time! I was just focusing on the firewall on this post since the engine bay is a significant source of both noise and heat and that's seems to be the hard area to access. I bought the car as a fairly recent nut-and-bolt restored vehicle so I won't know what will need replaced, if anything, (firewall mat, heater core, etc) but everything is clean and flawless; I just want it to be more quiet! So, with that additional information, anyone with suggestions on accessing the interior firewall?

Kenny
 

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Kenny, to do a good job, you have to take out the glove box, heater, accel pedal, brake booster, steering column and support, ebrake, both kick panels, defrost duct and the electrical harnesses. Pretty much everything which is bolted or screwed to the firewall area :)

These pics are after I put the deadener on the firewall and put back the pad, duct and kicks.



 

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If you don’t have the factory assembly manual, I buy or download it. I never worked on a Camaro before, with the exception of the glass, I completely disassembled and reassembled my car with that manual. Very helpful.
 

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1969 Camaro RS Z/28, M20, 3:55
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Kenny, to do a good job, you have to take out the glove box, heater, accel pedal, brake booster, steering column and support, ebrake, both kick panels, defrost duct and the electrical harnesses. Pretty much everything which is bolted or screwed to the firewall area :)

These pics are after I put the deadener on the firewall and put back the pad, duct and kicks.



These images sure answered one of the questions I had on if you install the deadener under the firewall pad. Another question I have, and others can chime in, did you also apply the sound deadener product inside the doors, and if so did you install it on the entire inside of the outer door skin (IML in aircraft jargon)?
 

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1969 Camaro SS 396
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It seems like it's always 1 step forward two steps back. I'm in the middle of installing the AAW update harness and ran across this thread. I just finished up rewiring the instrument cluster and was looking forward to reassembling the dash and getting this thing running again. Was looking at the options for insulating the firewall and looks like to do it right I'll need to take it apart a few more notches. I just wrestled that brake booster back on too. E brake and drive kick panel are already out so at least I didn't get too far along.

 
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