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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm thinking about buying this emblem. Trying to figure out how you can verify whether emblems are original or not? I see folks posting the part number, but don't they just repop that too?

Looks like it's showing a little wear. He wants $25. Worth it?

Apologies if this is covered somewhere and I missed it -- thanks in advance.



 

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From what I have seen the original parts have the GM part number cast into them and this is not done with the re-pops. I don't see a number in those pictures.
 

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Lot of the stuff OER repops nowadays has the GM part numbers cast in.

I really can't say about the emblem pictured here....gut feeling is original...looks old.
 

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Many times its not the part number cast inot the back but a casting number. I have several NOS 67 emblems and the number on the emblem is not the part number on the box. I kow they are GM parts because you can tell the way they are made from the repops. I do believe that is an orignial embelm. If the price and the part satifies you, then by all means buy it...
 

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Its a GM part, typical poor edge finish. Repros do not have that edge. Nice shape for a old GM part. Usually, the blue is scratched or checked. Worth $25 for sure. Clean well with soap and use a little 0000 steel wool on the chrome and plastic polish on the blue. should clean up nice!
 

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I can see a part number in the casting in the second pic. Looks like a GM part to me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Lot of the stuff OER repops nowadays has the GM part numbers cast in.
That's kind of what I was thinking, b/c I have some Z emblems that I'm taking off the car, and they have a part number on the back, but look brand new and the back is almost too shiny to believe they're originals...

I didn't take pics of the back, but here they are, in case anyone is interested. I'll take pics of the backs and post them tonight, just for future reference... I'm trying to sell/trade them as repops -- I better make certain I don't have the real deal on my hands (event though I really don't think the are OEM).
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=183864
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Thanks, everyone for the quick feedback! I went ahead and bought it just now. I'll clean it up and post some before and after pics when I get it.

If anyone wants to get rid of an OEM rear bowtie emblem and/or 327 side emblems please let me know! Thanks!
 

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The way it is supposed to be, as I understand (and I seem to recall a thread outlining all this) is that:

an original part nearly always has a GM number, even if it is just a casting number which may not be the part number. An example of this is a window crank handle, which has a casting number on the cast handle, but the assembly with knob had a different part number.

reproduction parts that are licensed by GM may have the casting number included

reproduction parts that are not GM licensed cannot have the GM numbers on it. An example of this would be a rear spoiler; if a rear spoiler has GM numbers in it, it is not a repro

The above looks like a GM piece, and you're probably going to want to do a little more investigation before selling the Z28 emblems you're taking off. I am not a Z guy, but I recall some "NOS" versions being worth more than others, based on when the emblem was made. Seems to me there is some detail on the OE and earlier NOS that was different on later NOS pieces.
 

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Eric, I recall a thread recently, our friend "440 6 pack" stated his OER rear spoiler had the GM numbers on the back. As a matter of fact, Classic Industries number for the OER repro 69 spoiler is 3949798....while their number for an original GM is G6590. I figured it was a misprint in the catalog but it shows up the same on the website...:wacko:
 

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Going from the rough edges, and if that back plate is unpainted with a little surface rust...it iis the same as the orginal I have here.
Clean well with soap and use a little 0000 steel wool on the chrome
What ever you do DONT use steel wool on chrome...no matter how fine it is you will still pick up fine scratch marks in certain angles..
Get a big bit of kitchen Aluminium foil crush up, use thinners or cokeacola (or water if have none) and rub well.
 

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Cool! Let me know. :beers:
PM sent. BTW, I have used 0000 wool on a lot of chrome, are they like new? no, but they look better! Yes, there might be some fine scratches, but this is used chrome, there were scratches there before I started :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
PM sent. BTW, I have used 0000 wool on a lot of chrome, are they like new? no, but they look better! Yes, there might be some fine scratches, but this is used chrome, there were scratches there before I started :D
'preciate it!
 

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I can see a part number in the casting in the second pic. Looks like a GM part to me.
So can I ...
Agree it looks like a GM piece :thumbsup:
 

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John -- just to clarify your comment, you're talking about the bowtie emblem, not my Z emblem above, right?

Thanks.
I guess, just to 'clarify' ... I can see them 'both' then ;)
Yes, I was agreeing with Mike's original statement that he could see the GM reference number on the back side near center of the original 'Bowtie' emblem.
But, I can see the 3958642 on your's also l:)

btw - I've seen 'OEM' GM emblems WITHOUT a number stamped/cast on the back also.
They were over the counter pieces in a GM box and had a sticker on the box (Group and Part #) and back of the emblem giving a supplier code and reference number - it isn't a long stretch to think that a sticker could weather and fall off over the years if one of these was used for an accident repair back-in-the-day ...
BUT - it still wouldn't be a "production" emblem from the assembly line, so the subject may be moot.

The majority of the "OEM" branded boxed stuff I've used or seen since the 80's does not have an actual GM part number on the emblem itself, but that may be the mix or age of the parts I've used - I haven't bought any in a few years.
 
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