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1969 RS Camaro
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My fuel gauge is located is located in my instrument cluster. What's the best to get to the back side of it for trouble shooting and replacing it?
 

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Remove lower cover for the steering column and loosen the 2 nuts that support the steering column so that it will drop down a bit. You can then remove the screws at the top, bottom and left side of the dash bezel. You will also have to remove a couple of small nuts on the right side that are above the radio/ash tray area. The bezel will then slide forward and you should be able to get to the back of the gauge. It is not too difficult. If you have an assembly manual you can find all of the fastener locations easily
 

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My fuel gauge is located is located in my instrument cluster. What's the best to get to the back side of it for trouble shooting and replacing it?
Alex...I removed the radio rather than dropping the steering column. With that out of the way, there was plenty of room to work on the rear for removal. By the way, if you need a replacement, I have a good clean one that works. Let me know if you're interested. I added the console gauges to my RS and installed the 350 tach in its place. Good luck :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Alex...I removed the radio rather than dropping the steering column. With that out of the way, there was plenty of room to work on the rear for removal. By the way, if you need a replacement, I have a good clean one that works. Let me know if you're interested. I added the console gauges to my RS and installed the 350 tach in its place. Good luck :thumbsup:
How much would you want for it?
 

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Alex/Karl, please take the negotiations offline, we try to keep the regular forums clear of the buying and selling thanks!

Replacing a gas gauge while lying on your back will be challenging. The electrical connectors are in about 6 pieces plus washers. Trying to juggle those up in that tight space, ouch! :D

What is the current issue? Most 69 gas gauge issues are related to grounding issues at the tank or the tank sending unit. I have rarely seen a gas gauge not work if the tank side is working.

So give us more info please!
 

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Alex/Karl, please take the negotiations offline, we try to keep the regular forums clear of the buying and selling thanks!

Replacing a gas gauge while lying on your back will be challenging. The electrical connectors are in about 6 pieces plus washers. Trying to juggle those up in that tight space, ouch! :D

What is the current issue? Most 69 gas gauge issues are related to grounding issues at the tank or the tank sending unit. I have rarely seen a gas gauge not work if the tank side is working.

So give us more info please!
Sorry Kevin...got caught up in the moment :(
 

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1969 RS Camaro
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Discussion Starter #8
My fuel gauge is peg above full.Well I have been trouble shooting this for a couple of days and I feel like I have two problems with my fuel gauge.
1) I disconnect the plug in the trunk, grounded the wire on the car side going to gauge,turned key on and it did not move the needle. Then I went to the front of the car disconnected the plug just above the emergency brake and did the same and it did not move the needle. I also checked continuity on the wire going back to the trunk and it was good.

2) I checked for a good ground at the fuel sending unit. I also disconnected the sending unit ground and the gauge wire of the sending unit and check ohm resistence between them and did not read anything?

I have done alot of searching on this subject and the only thing I know for sure is I have continuity from the front connector to the back connector is good. Everything else is what I have read. Any suggestions would be great.
Thanks Alex
 

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Did you run the full trouble shooter? http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=195833

Just unplugging the sender lead in the trunk should have moved the needle way past full. But if it was there already you wouldn't see any activity. Grounding the harness lead to the body in the trunk should have pushed the needle past empty. Make sure you have a good ground to bare metal. Also check your fuse.

There should be resistance on the harness lead and on the sender lead. Since it is a 69 you can manipulate the sender with a wooden dowel through the filler neck lifting up will increase Ohm's. The sending unit needs the ground connected for that to work so that sounds like your issue in that test as you say you disconnected the ground.
 

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FYI - Any time I'm working on something behind the dash, the first think I do is take the driver's side seat out. After that, you can put something soft on the floor and lay on your back while working behind the dash. Sure makes it a lot more comfortable.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Which fuse? I assume that there is power there because everything else is working. But I sure would like to get a look of the back side of the gauge.
 

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Test the Pink lead for power. It should be the lower right of the fuse panel marked GAUGES. I assume you are speaking of the standard large right side instrument pod gauge and not the small center pod. The plug can be removed from the rear without removing anything if you can get under the dash on your back. Larger folks have to remove the drivers seat to get enough room to get under and be able to look up.
 

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As stated early a gauge past full indicates an open circuit from the sender. If you ground the wire at the rear and it doesn't go below empty the circuit is still open. If you ground the wire under the kick panel and it still isn't below full I would suspect the gauge is bad or something on the back of the dash.

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I picked up a sending unit today and got a gauge on the way. But I still want to get a look behind that dash to check power, ground and the gauge wire.
 

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When you disconnect the wire in the trunk and nothing changes it tells you the present problem is not in the tank. After you get everything in front of there working as it should you may find the sender not reading correctly but it presently is NOT causing the gauge to read past full.

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #16
When you disconnect the wire in the trunk and nothing changes it tells you the present problem is not in the tank. After you get everything in front of there working as it should you may find the sender not reading correctly but it presently is NOT causing the gauge to read past full.

Jeff
When I disconnect the ground wire from the rear strap area under the car by the gas tank and disconnect the tan wire in the trunk then I put a ohm meter on the tan wire leading to the sending unit and the other meter lead to the ground wire from the sending unit shouldn't I read resistance? Right now I don't read any resistance. When I do that to the new unit I get a reading. Thanks for the help I really appreciate the replies. Alex
 

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You should get a continuity test from the brown sender lead to the sender through the ground. And once you know you have a good ground Ohms from the sender lead. Once you have both of those hook it up and it should be sending Ohms to the gauge.
 

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It's the sending unit I bet. The brown wire connection must be bad outside or inside the tank on the sending unit. I just went through the same problem and had the same symptoms. I dropped the tank and found the sending units resistance strap had snapped off at the rivet connection.
 

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If you follow American auto wire troubleshooting steps for this it will also probably lead you to repairing or replacing the sending unit in the tank.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well I got my fuel gauge working. I replaced the gauge and it tested good per the trouble shooting thread. Then I replaced the sending unit and all is working now. To replace the gauge rather then take out the instrument cluster. I took out the drivers seat, the radio and I was where I needed to be. Thanks for the help. Alex
 
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