Thank you for the encouragement. Spending a lot of time looking/dreaming at cars on line. Planning a resto-mod as wanting a few upgrades vs what I believe came from the factory.
Assemble manual is a must! Got pictures too.You probably know you need to bag and tag fasteners and take a lot of pictures before and during disassembly. Also the GM Assembly Instruction Manual (AIM) will help when you start putting it all back together.
I thought my steering column at the rag joint was free (blot removed). When I removed the the subframe body bolts, the subframe shifted forward damaging the rag joint. Also on of the body bolts was rusted and broke free the nut at the firewall. Bolt also broke. Not sure how I am going to fix this. At least it broke in a way the subframe was removeable.Nice. So you “broke a few things during the process”? Patience? Beverage Budget? Finger? Penalty for swearing?
Thank you, will try to post pictures as progress is made.Look forward to seeing your progress!
I agree with your remedy. As long as the bolt is still in the correct location, should be able to weld the nut back in place. Will be able to get some heat on the body bolt for removal. Only possible issue is if the mounting hole is too rusted and cannot get a good weld.U can arc weld nut at firewall once everything apart. if u can vice grip the stud(bolt now)
u can burn the bolt too,
The broken nut holder piece is available. Happened to me once, well nut was spinning. A buddy arc welded it down.
That is one thing that puts puts a bit of scare in me. Being off on my frame/body mounts. Want the car to drive straight when restored. Worse case the whole thing becomes some very cool yard art!I agree with BEUNY and a few others above . Make sure all of your measurements are correct because a 32nd off here and there at the front end becomes an inch by the time you get to the back end.Alex
The bolt broke during removal. When subframe was removed, that is when I noticed the nut was loose. Was unaware the nut floats, maybe I'm not as bad off as I thought. Will look into this furtherTechnically the nut floats. There’s a cage welded over it which holds it. I bent my cage up. New square nut under it. Then welded old cage back down.
Was planning on welding the nut to the firewall support, have to remove the broken bolt out of it. If its support to float, will have to come up with another option to fix the nut in place for bolt removal.yep, it needs to float or you won't be able to align the frame when you put it back together, unless you weld it after you have the frame aligned and the bolt in place - but that might be difficult to reach then.
It is my toe boards that need replaced. Purchased the floor and trunk pan from ADM, they did not offer just the toe boards, purchased the entire firewall. Was cheaper to purchase all together to save on shipping.In your disassembly description you mention the firewall needs replaced. if you are replacing the lower firewall/toeboard part it comes with new body mounts already on it.
Jeff
Amazing just how rusty these body bolts can get.Anti seize is your friend
Procrastinating getting that broken body bolt out. Update when removed.Actually it’s not if you think about it.
Passenger side/firewall. Cage nut looks ok, going to have find something to wedge inbetween the nut and the cage to get the bolt out. Luckly some of the bolt is sticking out of the nut, enought to weld a nut on. Hopefully with a little heat and penitrating oil will come out.Which one broke off?