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Discussion Starter #1
So I'm 17 and I've been saving up for about a year and a half to buy a 1969 Camaro and this one just happened to pop up at the right time and for the right price. I will be asking a lot of questions and some of the questions may be dumb so keep in mind I have 0 idea of what I'm doing. I also don't have a welder yet(soon) so I will just be stripping the car for now. I do have a few good things going for me. 1. My dads been doing this sorta stuff for about 40 years and he restored his own 1969 camaro when he was 17(you can see pics by looking at my garage on my profile. 2. AMD is 15 minutes away from my house and its the main distribution and installation center(Buford, GA) 3. Summit is about an hour away. 4. I have common sense.


This was when the car got dropped off. My driveway is like a hill so the trailer couldnt get up it so they dumped it right there. It came with 2 cars worth of parts. Everything but motor and tranny.

I had about 10 of my friends come over and push it up my driveway and into my garage. There was no steering wheel so I used a pair of vise-grips.

I wanted to start with the quarters since they had horrible skins installed a number of years ago so I melted the lead out of the passenger side seam.
I changed my mind and wanted to do the floors so I could install subframe connects but I ran into a few problems that I didn't spot before I bought the car.(not a big deal its just more work, time, and money...)

Apparently the driveshaft or something went right through the floor so they decided to patch that with some rivets and sheet metal.

Next thing I went to was the riveted floor patches that the same guy put in directly above the old floor.

I also noticed that the rocker was replaced by someone who actually "used" a welder....

I pull up the floor patch on the drivers side to notice this... Theres the same one on the drivers side and there were 2 more floor patches installed behind the front seat supports but they actually cut out the old floor and welded in the patches with brass. I'll probably still replace them but they did a better job.

Since I was stripping the entire floor I noticed "some" bondo on the transmission tunnel and stripped it off to find a serious amount of dents and about a quarter size hole.
All and all the floor is gonna need some attention but its not as bad as some cars and it can still be fixed so I'm not too upset and I'll do my best to fix it.

So I know these rust out a lot on first gens so the dash frame is gonna need to be replaced and I'm gonna cut it out before I do floors to make it easier to reach the toe boards.

Pretty sure AMD sells this piece can anyone link me to it?

Also, how do you get seam sealer off your skin? I was stripping it off the floor and now its all over my arms and legs :)
 

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Having seam sealer on your arms and legs when you go to school is a badge of honor.

It is not a chick magnet but the guys will be jealous.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
When the time comes purchase a quality welder with gas and fully adjustable rheostat.
Here's the patch panel you're asking about. Made by CHQ and sold by AMD. Good luck with your project.
Quarter Panel Patches | CHQ W-956
I was debating between a Miller MIG 141($700) and a Hobart MIG 140($589 but I have $100 off so $489) but I'm pretty sure I'm going to go with the Hobart since their reviews are wayyyy better which surprised me since the the 141 is Miller.
 

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Mitchel, Hobart and Miller are both owned by ITW. That's not to say their welders are the same. I know the Hobart has good reviews both online and on this site. The only thing I don't like on the Hobart 140 is the heat settings are controlled by click settings. Not a fully adjustable rheostat that in my experience is invaluable for tuning it in. The Miller 141 is fully adjustable. I am biased as I own a Miller 211 and really enjoy using it.
 

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Mitchel - Great to see young blood in the hobby and one who is eager to start off right. I look forward to seeing your progress.
Remember we are open 24/7 ;)
 

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I was debating between a Miller MIG 141($700) and a Hobart MIG 140($589 but I have $100 off so $489) but I'm pretty sure I'm going to go with the Hobart since their reviews are wayyyy better which surprised me since the the 141 is Miller.
Love my Miller 140 Autoset.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So I ran into a slight problem today. I have a driveway that is a small hill and I back the car up so I can work on it. Does anyone have any recommendations on how I can back it up safely because right now I'm holding it from rolling down my driveway and it almost ran away from me.


I back it up about half way out of my garage for more space and better lighting. I was thinking about mounting one of those boat winches to the floor but I'm not sure.


I installed a set of subframe connectors that came with the car and started stripping the floor and pulling up the patches that were put in by the previous owner. The old floor looks completely gone but thats only in that one area pretty much everywhere else its solid which is good.

After that I went through and completely stripped the floor down with some harbor freight wire wheels for my angle grinder and it worked way better than I thought. The entire floor is stripped and ready for the POR15 when it comes(Wednesday hopefully) so I'll keep you updated. The only thing holding me back in this build is money so expect some progress every Wednesday(day I get paid).
 

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Mitchel - I have a similar pitch to my driveway. I use two rubber truck/aircraft wheel chocks behind the rear wheels, sometimes with cinder blocks added behind them just for extra resistance on the driveway when pulling or tugging hard on her. Also I use the emergency brake. Helpful if currently installed.

The truck rated rubber chocks may be overkill to some but I feel safer with them in place than the thinner lower profile rubber ones out there for passenger vehicles. Not that much more cost wise than the smaller passenger vehicle ones either.

https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Black-Wheel-Chock-2A092
 

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Very cool! I got my 69 when I was 18. Still have it 35 years later. I'm not far from AMD either and about 1.5 hrs North of Summit.
 

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Discussion Starter #13

Ok so I took off the front clip and it came off in 3 pieces which was pretty easy. I went to summit Tuesday and got some new rad support bushings and bolts so thats all fine. I know its not pictured but those cowl boxes(I think thats what theyre called) are rusted out completely and someone covered them up with a thick later of fiberglass. You can see where I cut a hole in it to see if the cowl box was completely gone underneath and it is.
 

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Oh and I got my POR15 in the mail today and the can was dented on one side super bad and I couldn't get the lid off so instead of destroying the can and not being able to reseal it I called amazon support and they refunded me my money and let me keep the can :)

PS thats an entire gallon and its not cheap stuff
 

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Oh and another thing I did Tuesday was I went to the Tag office and I got a Georgia Title issued for my car. Thats pretty cool considering Georgia doesn't require titles on 1985 or older and its pretty rare for them to issue a new title for a car this old.
 

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Oh and I got my POR15 in the mail today and the can was dented on one side super bad and I couldn't get the lid off so instead of destroying the can and not being able to reseal it I called amazon support and they refunded me my money and let me keep the can :)

PS thats an entire gallon and its not cheap stuff
Head down to your local paint store and buy and empty gallon can, transfer the contents and the label and consider it done, can will be a couple bucks at most.
 

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If you haven't done it already set up a system to document your build.

I use 3 ring binders with separator tabs.

I keep all receipts in one section. Instructions in another and so on.

Also take pictures of your progress. Another important to me item is to organize the pictures in different folders so you can easily find the ones you're looking for down the road.

I would also suggest uploading them to a 3rd party server like photobucket.

Can't tell you how many times guys say they lost their built pics when a computer crashed or lost their cell phone.

Also to keep your project from going stagnant try to do something every day or two. Even if it's just doing research on the internet.

A big project can get overwhelming. Realize any big project is just a bunch of small projects combined. By breaking it down into small projects you can stay focused and will feel the satisfaction as each one is finished.

From you're post thus far it looks like you have a prettt good handle on things.



Good luck with your build and enjoy the trip.
 

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A big project can get overwhelming. Realize any big project is just a bunch of small projects combined. By breaking it down into small projects you can stay focused and will feel the satisfaction as each one is finished.
Well said and spot on!
 
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