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Hi All,

I am troubleshooting a charging issue with my 69Z.I have to admit this is intimidating for me, I hate dealing with wiring issues... Anyway, I am getting 0V out of the alternator, I have replace the VR and even tried Jumping the Red and Brown wire at the VR and still nothing. I had the Alternator bench tested at Autozone and they tell me it is fine although I understand from reading some threads that their test may not be 100% accurate...

When I went to jump the red and brown wire on the VR I noticed that the red wire felt very thin and rubbery and also the plug at the VR looks like at some point it got very hot, see pic.

Now the car starts fine and seems to run fine until eventually the battery dies and it wont start. When that happens I charge the battery overnight and am fine again for a week or so.

So I have a few questions.

1. Can someone walk me through what and where I should be measuring and what I should be seeing?
2. Looking at the pic could the thin charred wire be causing my issue?
3. What is the round black thing on the wires, resistor?
4. Even if the pic is not my problem I think I would like to fix the wiring here, how would you go about fixing it? Just fix that wire and plug, engine compartment harness...

This is a matching numbers Z so I don't really want to hack it up if I don't have to but I do want it fixed. Any advice is appreciated

IMG_0649.jpg
 

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I'm away from my 68 Nova factory manual but I can say from the picture, the red wire with the tube on it is a battery 12 volt wire. The wire is a fusible link and maybe how it feels funny is that it's burnt ?. You should be able to check to see if you have battery voltage at the connector end on that red wire.
Two of the other wires go to the alternators small plug and one of the wires goes into the car to the GEN light.
I'll try and look tonight in my shop manual what voltages should be where on the plug.

I wonder too how the plug looks melted if you can get one off of a donor car or a new reproduction one.

On my 68 it still has the original adjustable voltage regulator on it and I did have to adjust it last year as the battery was getting close to 16 volts. Now I've gotten it down to 14.6 or so.

Jim
 

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x2 the fusible link sounds by your description as damaged if not fused.
I would just check continuity first to see which wires are broken, fused, etc. Once you have path through all four you should get some activity through the line as Jim says.

If you also upgrade to a Wells/Airtex VR715 solid state VR you won't have any under/over charging issues. RockAuto sells both the VR and the replacement harness if yours is truly toast - looks it in your picture.

Your Horn Relay is upside down as mine is too. which should make it easier for you to test the lines. :)
 

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Once you get your wiring and fusible links straightened out/tested, if you still aren't getting any output from the alternator, try tapping the alternator case a few times with a small hammer while the engine is running and then check for output again. If it starts putting out, more than likely the brushes are worn to their limit, tapping the alternator case usually causes the worn brushes to make contact with the commutator and allow it to put out power for a short time. If that's what the problem is, alternator brushes are not that expensive and not too bad of a job to replace if you want to fix the alternator rather than replace it.

I also agree the Wells/Airtex VR715 solid state voltage regulator is a great upgrade, you can put your old mechanical regulator cover on it if you want to keep it looking like an original mechanical regulator.
 
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