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More like "Up to your Neck in wiring". This is on my list of Favorite Camaros! Just a beautiful piece of work with beautiful parts.
Brett 🚀 🚀 🚀
 

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Discussion Starter · #103 ·
Slow progress on the engine harness Joe, but that's really close, I just need to do one more twisted pair extension for the PS knock sensor and that will be behind me - what a pain!

I just haven't had much time to work on it with all the Summer activities - Stephen getting is Eagle Rank, 2 weeks of vacation, a 1.5 of Covid recovery, scrambling to get a Boundary waters canoe trip going because one of the adult leaders got Covid 3 days before we left, and I just got back from that - it's just crazy.

The good news is I have pretty much all the parts I need now except hoses for the oil and fuel and a vaporworks module and then fittings so I should start making good progress soon (fingers crossed).
 

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Discussion Starter · #105 · (Edited)
You'll find again time to work on the project...
I see you didn't protect neither coat the Speedtech chassis... Is this stainless steel??
I hope to get back to it after a 6 hour MTB race in a couple weeks (assuming I don't crash and break something). It's not stainless Marc, not sure what grade of steel it is but it's not showing any signs of oxidation (yet). I do need to get moving so I can decide if I want to get it powder coated before the paint shop if there's much of a lead time for paint which I expect there will be.

You'd think a retired guy would have all kinds of free time - I seriously have no idea how i ever had time for a job! :LOL:
 

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1968 Camaro LS3 TH400 Moser 9” DSE mini tubs
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😳MT bike …..your the iron man 👍
The WOW does good to pedal the grandson’s bike to set the derailer.
I’m looking forward to you, and the boys making progress, as I’m sure we all are.
 

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Discussion Starter · #107 ·
Ok, due to peer pressure, I'm back on it with the wiring - this morning's work on the PS knock sensor wiring with an extended twisted pair, heat shield, and home made stainless wire retainers. This sensor is close to the PS headers and I had to rotate it so the plug faces forward and modify the starter heat shield (not shown) to fit between the header and the knocksensor heat shield. There's about 1/16 inch air gap between the starter shield on both sides of it - that little piece took about 1 day to modify to fit. Bend, mount, install header, inspect, scratch head, mark, rebend, repeat for hours.

No help from the boys this morning - they are on Summer time sleep schedule I guess!

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Discussion Starter · #112 · (Edited)
The car? Interior?
Not much to look at really, the body is an empty shell. Here's a picture of the inside, just a bunch of wires and control modules and a fusebox that I need to find a home for. Vintage air suit case hung to help figure out where everything can go. Need to put the gauge cluster in to get a better see if some things I was thinking will work. Waiting on a couple hole saws to put the cluster together so I can put it in. I'll get an overall picture once I get the subframe moved back under it, hopefully this coming week before I do the MTB race - just in case I break something crashing.....

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Discussion Starter · #113 ·
Back at it - Stephen got the starter solenoid wire set up, and help with getting the headers back on, the subframe back under the car and reasonably aligned, and threw the fenders on just to take some measurements and see how big we can go with the oil tank. Don't make fun of my fenders, they are rusty looking but very solid GMs! :)
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I guess you like those Ultimate Headers? Would you recommend them? What kind of flange or fitting does the header have to connect the exhaust pipe? There website just shows an open pipe. I guess you could weld a flange or ball and socket to the stainless steel?

My engine mounts and subframe forced the engine to sit very close to the firewall. I could not disconnect the direct injection electrical plug on the back of the engine. The engine sound deadener foam was rubbing on the firewall.


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I chose to cut a hole in my firewall and add more room for my hand to unplug the connector.


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Did you have the same problem?

My LT4 sits a lot lower than your LT5. I don't know if it is the different engine or if it is the different subframe and motor mounts.


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I know, I ask too many questions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #118 ·
Out of curiosity what are you considering for a hood? Looks like that LT sits up pretty high.
Yeah, it's a ways up there isn't it? I had an oh crap moment when I put the fenders on and saw what it looked like. I did a bunch of measurements and thinking about it before I ordered the hood but still OMG I thought! Anyway, Stephen and I did some more measuring off the fenders and I think our plan will work, I hope to be able to post a picture after we get a bit further that will show it works. If it doesn't I'll just have to jump off a bridge LOL.
I guess you like those Ultimate Headers? Would you recommend them? What kind of flange or fitting does the header have to connect the exhaust pipe? There website just shows an open pipe. I guess you could weld a flange or ball and socket to the stainless steel?

My engine mounts and subframe forced the engine to sit very close to the firewall. I could not disconnect the direct injection electrical plug on the back of the engine. The engine sound deadener foam was rubbing on the firewall.


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I chose to cut a hole in my firewall and add more room for my hand to unplug the connector.


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Did you have the same problem?

My LT4 sits a lot lower than your LT5. I don't know if it is the different engine or if it is the different subframe and motor mounts.


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I know, I ask too many questions.
Absolutely not to many questions, that's what these forums are all about right?

They are the Ultimate headers, designed for this subframe. Really not a choice for an off the shelf set with this subframe, they were designed by Speedtech and Ultimate headers makes them to order of those plans. They come together into a 3 inch collector. I post a picture when I get a chance. Looks like you have a DSE Subframe? They probable have something for that set up. I'm pretty sure the ones I have would work with yours since this subframe is closer to the engine. I don't think you need something that tight on yours though, it would make for some unnecessary some complexity you moving things around.

Yep, I had to cut my firewall. There's 3 inches between the plane of the firewall and the VA Suitcase so I'll make a 2.5 inch deep doghouse to go around it later. The Speedtech Extreme has slotted bolt holes for the mounts and there's 2 different positions for the mounts that move the engine fore and aft as well as 2 positions you can put the mounts on the block so there's huge range of where it can go. You can see the slots for the mounts in the frame in post 41. The subframe had to have some modifications to let me get it to where I wanted and not hit the pan.

I would guess the big difference on the height is the supercharger since it has larger impellers and cooler on top, but might be the subframe too. The block is essentially the same between the LT4 and LT5. I have a little over 8.5 inches from the top of the thermostat housing to the top of the supercharger hat if you want to compare measurements.

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Holley makes a set of headers for a DSE subframe and LT engine. I am tired of buying Chinese stuff. I like the Ultimate Headers but they only make a set of shorty headers for a DSE subframe and LS engine.

The Ultimate header looks to be better quality at a cheaper price compared to the Holley header.

Ha, I am happy to hear you have the same clearance issues as me. I am not happy you have to cut the firewall and have extra work. You are right. There is a lot of room between the Vintage air and the firewall.

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I made a square insert with a larger lower cone section to get more clearance around the transmission.

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Do your sons really want a hood to cover that engine? When I was their age, a monster engine with no hood was appealing. You are not building a sleeper. Ok, you need a hood.
 

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Discussion Starter · #120 ·
Holley makes a set of headers for a DSE subframe and LT engine. I am tired of buying Chinese stuff. I like the Ultimate Headers but they only make a set of shorty headers for a DSE subframe and LS engine.

The Ultimate header looks to be better quality at a cheaper price compared to the Holley header.

Ha, I am happy to hear you have the same clearance issues as me.
You could put an LT in without cutting the firewall but it would be really tight and the engine would really need to come pretty far forward. I think Mark Stielow did that on one of his builds and an LT4.

Which brings to mind BTW - I'm pretty sure he used midlength headers on his LT5 build and said on a supercharged motor it wouldn't make any noticable difference at his power level. Having the mid length would certainly give you more options for placing your O2 sensors too. I ended up using an extension on the PS.

Curious where you plan to put your controllers and fuse box?
 
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