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Discussion Starter · #121 · (Edited)
Ben's turn to helped me today - put the radiator in and check the hood for clearance with the supercharger. Unfortunately we have a 3/8 inch problem - it's close but not good enough. The fenders are not really set right yet, and there's room to lower the engine a bit. We'll figure something out to make it work.

He said its fun to see it start to look more and more like a car.


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Curious where you plan to put your controllers and fuse box?
I have yet to weld the outer cowl panels on the car. It has been nice because it gives me access to installing parts under the dash.

The LT PCM is huge! Look where it can fit. Air flows through this area. I will have to make a access panel. I need to make a bracket and shield the connections from water. But how often do you need to change out a computer?


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It fits through the vent hole.

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It will also fit on the inside of the firewall just to the right of the throttle gas pedal.

I had to buy offset dowel pins for my brand new engine and bell housing. It was five thousands off which was the maximum tolerance. Was yours off that much?
 
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Discussion Starter · #125 ·
My bellhousing was in tolerance, lucked out, no shimming or offset dowel pins needed.

The LT5 controller won't fit in that vent but I like that idea! I was thinking about using the PS vent hole for the fusebox - it's 6x6 and 4 inches deep. It looks like the LT5 controller will fit where the dash speaker went, or the radio (mounted vertically) or behind the glove box. I really need to get the dash and gauges in an the Vintage air ducts to sort it out. Right now I just have the VA suitcase hung and I need to cut the gauge holes in the dash so I can put it in and figure it out.

Some folks have put them behind a false toeboard on the PS but it sure seems like it would not have enough ventilation in that location, but I haven't heard of anyone having problems there. Maybe you could put an access through the front of the spot where the factory heater fan went to get to your controller, and get to it through the inner fender?
 

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Discussion Starter · #129 ·
What hood is that?
It looks like a Rode gone rogue Xperimental 👍
It's a Ringbrothers Razor hood, thought we would do something a little different to get air out from under the hood so it flows through the cooling stack better and doesn't create as much lift. The lead time on this was crazy long, 6 to 12 months. They just build them when they get enough orders to make a batch I think.
 

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Discussion Starter · #130 · (Edited)
Plugging away - little bit at a time. Trying to make a little progress each day.

Today's work - cutting a few holes for the gauges in the Detroit Speed Dash insert. Didn't let the boys do this one, too expensive if a mistake was made - i have other things they can use the hole saw on for experience. Still have a vent and AC control to cut out but this gives me what I need for now to see how much room I have and where behind the dash for control modules etc.

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Discussion Starter · #131 ·
Stephen made up / installed radiator hoses today and learned about Gates PowerGrip clamps. Couldn't find any sized right so these will work for now, clocked perfect, right length and all.
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Great build. Glad to see your boys helping too. We seem to have several things in common. I also have 2 boys, a 69 bought many years ago (87 for me), both paid $875, and still needing to be finished lol. My plans have changed many times over the years. I had a girlfriend back in the day that told me that I would never finish it so I refuse to give up lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #133 ·
Test fitting the inner fender wells led to a discovery - the Willwood Clutch Master cylinder set up is too long by 3 inches for these oversized pieces, so I got a GM version which will fit with the bracket and rod from Speedtech (which I'm waiting on). Cut the factory rod off this one. It came pre-bled and has a quick disconnect. Of course I need to buy the other end that fits it for it to work with my throw-out bearing.
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Discussion Starter · #136 ·
Boys are headed out to camp for the weekend, but before they left Stephen got a lesson on different fittings and helped assemble / test fit some of the intercooler hoses and Y connector going from 5/8 to 3/4" hose. Should probably get the right tool to remove the little spring clamps on the GM fittings for hoses on this since they are on the heater coolant lines too and I'll be taking them off an on more than once I'm sure.
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Buying and cutting up hoses because you can't get some of these connectors any other way makes you feel pretty dumb, but seems there's no way around it.
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Isn’t it odd how after all we have collectively learned that a hose connection can be so convoluted?
Too bad removal is rarely as quick and easy as installation.
I have fought some that would wipe out a years worth of sermons🤬 ….even with compressed air, flushing with penetrating oils, and happy thoughts. It could be my skill set is just lacking.
I suppose in a perfect world without engine heat, particulate, and temperature cycles…. they work perfectly. 😁
I’m sure someone has sat down and used a cutoff tool, and TIG welded, silver soldiered, or some other means converted to AN, but that’s a labor of love, and my love nerve has atrophied.
 
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