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Discussion Starter · #142 ·
Copious comes to mind for some reason 👍
I’d be bald before I figured all that out….
Like I could actually figure it out🤔
I'll be bald before it's done! I spend lots of time staring at it in the morning drinking coffee, and then reading and thinking about what other's have done on similar builds. It's an adventure for sure, keeps me out of trouble :)
 

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Check out Stielow's build thread for dry sump tank positioning in the cowl area of the back fender passenger side if you're interested, # 135 and #221. The later they altered the passenger wheelwell for access. As usual his guidance and the shop that he uses does primo work.
 

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It's a Ringbrothers Razor hood, thought we would do something a little different to get air out from under the hood so it flows through the cooling stack better and doesn't create as much lift. The lead time on this was crazy long, 6 to 12 months. They just build them when they get enough orders to make a batch I think.
I used that hood. Make sure you mock up your booster and master cylinder if that is the way you are going. My master cylinder reservoir hit the vent hard. Had to go to a remote reservoir master.

Don
 
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Discussion Starter · #145 · (Edited)
Check out Stielow's build thread for dry sump tank positioning in the cowl area of the back fender passenger side if you're interested, # 135 and #221. The later they altered the passenger wheelwell for access. As usual his guidance and the shop that he uses does primo work.
Thanks! I love what he and the Sled Alley did with his tank (and the entire build), it's very innovative. Ultimately that was just a bridge too far us with this subframe and what I was willing to do. I think we can manage to use the bump-out they did on his tank in this one though to gain some capacity to get it up to 2.5 gallons which makes it less sensitive to height in the tank. Just need to think about how to implement it without sacrificing the non-sloshing benefit of a tall narrow tank that keeps the outlet from getting uncovered.

Mark's build was the inspiration for this one and gave me confidence we could pull it off. I've been over it multiple times looking at details, you will see lots of his ideas show up in this one and probably many that will go unnoticed. I should probably have the boys look at it and learn also.
I used that hood. Make sure you mock up your booster and master cylinder if that is the way you are going. My master cylinder reservoir hit the vent hard. Had to go to a remote reservoir master.
Thanks Don, that's something I hadn't even thought about. With the wider inner fenders there's no room for a booster and the master cylinder even dictates how much trimming is needed on the inners so a regular MC will fit. I knew that going in so we are planning on using manual brakes so hopefully that will help keep the MC out of the collision zone with the hood duct. I just looked at the hood and it looks like I have a fair amount of room before that vent starts turning down significantly. We're going to have to get dimensions on a Baer Master and figure out on paper if it's going to fit before it's ordered. Great job for the boys to help out with so they can learn how to deal with and plan around things like this.
 

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Thanks! I love what he and the Dutchboys did with his tank (and the entire build), it's very innovative. Ultimately that was just a bridge too far us with this subframe and what I was willing to do. I think we can manage to use the bump-out they did on his tank in this one though to gain some capacity to get it up to 2.5 gallons which makes it less sensitive to height in the tank. Just need to think about how to implement it without sacrificing the non-sloshing benefit of a tall narrow tank that keeps the outlet from getting uncovered.

Mark's build was the inspiration for this one and gave me confidence we could pull it off. I've been over it multiple times looking at details, you will see lots of his ideas show up in this one and probably many that will go unnoticed. I should probably have the boys look at it and learn also.

Thanks Don, that's something I hadn't even thought about. With the wider inner fenders there's no room for a booster and the master cylinder even dictates how much trimming is needed on the inners so a regular MC will fit. I knew that going in so we are planning on using manual brakes so hopefully that will help keep the MC out of the collision zone with the hood duct. I just looked at the hood and it looks like I have a fair amount of room before that vent starts turning down significantly. We're going to have to get dimensions on a Baer Master and figure out on paper if it's going to fit before it's ordered. Great job for the boys to help out with so they can learn how to deal with and plan around things like this.
Manual master should be fine since it’s shorter without the booster and isn’t angled up. I’ve never been a fan of manual brakes. It takes a lot of analysis to get a system with good braking performance. Have you considered hydroboost?

Don
 
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Discussion Starter · #147 ·
Manual master should be fine since it’s shorter without the booster and isn’t angled up. I’ve never been a fan of manual brakes. It takes a lot of analysis to get a system with good braking performance. Have you considered hydroboost?

Don
Good to hear on the fit, thanks.

Hydroboost is my bailout plan if I don't like the full manual brakes. I know they take more braking effort and I'm pretty sure I will need to switch to aggressive pads to be happy with the pedal pressure needed to slow down vs what came with my calipers/discs. I know at least one person locally that autocrosses with them in an LS 69 with 335s all the way around, so I'll pick his brain on set up before I buy more parts.

I like the idea of better modulation and feedback of manual compared to power, it's a trade off I'm going to have to explore. I'd be interested in your take on hydroboost and noise level / feedback? Hopefully if I end up wanting to go that route this Jones PS pump won't exceed pressure limits on a hydroboost if that's even a potential issue.
 

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Good to hear on the fit, thanks.

Hydroboost is my bailout plan if I don't like the full manual brakes. I know they take more braking effort and I'm pretty sure I will need to switch to aggressive pads to be happy with the pedal pressure needed to slow down vs what came with my calipers/discs. I know at least one person locally that autocrosses with them in an LS 69 with 335s all the way around, so I'll pick his brain on set up before I buy more parts.

I like the idea of better modulation and feedback of manual compared to power, it's a trade off I'm going to have to explore. I'd be interested in your take on hydroboost and noise level / feedback? Hopefully if I end up wanting to go that route this Jones PS pump won't exceed pressure limits on a hydroboost if that's even a potential issue.
Maybe I’m getting old and lazy but I just prefer power brakes. I’m not racing so no need to modulate brake pressure etc. A quality hydroboost system is not noisy in my experience. Just buy a quality system if you go that route.

Manual master bore selection is critical imho. Has to be based on caliper bore etc. There’s some math out there if you want to dig around.

Don
 

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Steve, your build will hopefully help others down the road that might incur issues along the way, keep up the process! I finished my LS conversion with a Gen 3 last year but haven't had as much fabrication along the way.

Don you're not old........you're well seasoned through experiences along the way, you're valued input helps tremendously on here and elsewhere without the extra BS thrown in for good measure as does a character here periodically.
 

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That is awesome. My father discouraged my interest in cars claiming I would become a high school dropout… 🤣

Don
 

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1968 Camaro LS3 TH400 Moser 9” DSE mini tubs
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It’s just so good to have that ability and access to make it what you want. 👍 I dig it.
It’s probably nicer to have the resources to buy anything you want….but it’s really satisfying to make it, and someone asked “ where did you buy that?”
So I just reply
“Oh I know a guy that welds stuff so….”
Well done Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #156 ·
I would love to claim this piece of work, but its stainless tig welded to mild steel tubing, above my pay grade and equipment - so I paid to have it done (outsourcing). The reservoir is from GM off the shelf, reapplied the one from Mark Stielow's build, but I claim the integration into this build and how we approached it which is different. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #158 · (Edited)
Power steering is a wrap - just need to flush the cooler and 1 last line. The Goodrich 910 hose is everywhere except the high pressure side coming off the pump which is Fragola 6000 series PTFE with black cover. The Goodrich is a bit fiddly trimming the aramid braid for assembly, tough stuff. Braided fishing line cutters seem to work well, just tedious. Will tidy up the lines later with hose retention clamps after the oil cooler lines are done, they have the right length and angles to put them where I want them long term the way we built them.
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Discussion Starter · #160 ·
Tank is ready to go in to explore / finalize plans for vent and fuel line routing. 1/4 inch stainless vent from fill tube across the top of the tank to fit within the installed space without rubbing easily, then stepping up to 3/8 stainless tubing for the tee combining the 2 vents to minimize risk of pressure drop inside the tank for the fuel pumps and to match the -6AN ID for either Finch or II Much vent systems (haven't decided which to use yet). What a PITA finding all the stainless compression fittings! Will figure out vent line end and fuel line junction mount location after the line routing is planned.

The -6AN Goodrich 910 hose for fuel and final vent line let's you make bends with a radius under 1" without kinking and is PTFE lined so no fumes escape plus no decay from any fuels I would consider using.

The pump on the left has the adapter for the fuel pressure sensor which has enough overhead space to angle it up a bit from horizontal following GM specs.
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