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Discussion Starter #1
it was a beautifull sunny day and i decided i was going to replace my front spring bushs . that sounded simple enough and i had the new parts so i was thinking i could do this in a few hours and be watching saturday afternoon football and smashing down beers in no time.....well 3 weeks later and that idea to replace bushes turned into removing my springs completely, dropping my tank , removing my diff, replacing every suspension part from the doors back etc etc....in my haste i tore down my rear drums without taking a picture or any reference .... i did a few searches on here but never found any real good directions on how to put it all back together so here is my 23 steps to a hard pedal.
here is every part you will need to get the job done . i did it with minimum tools. 2 in fact ,a small flat head screwdriver and a spring puller hook.

i started with putting some molybedinum paste on the piston sleeves and sliding them home


next push the ebrake cable through the hole if you have had it out. click and its home.

slide the forward pin in through the rear

place the front shoe in position ( caution:the smaller shoe)and clip in the shoe hold down spring.i did it pretty easy with tough fingers.

lets get the park brake lever on next. believe me this spring is tough and a rag and the spring puller comes in real handy here.

put the larger rear shoe in line with the park brake lever using this locater slot.

dont forget this side has the washer for the spring to locate on

this is the time to slide in the adjusting pivot leaver. its 3 prong arms sit in nicely once its behind there.here it is all loosely assembled for now, and loosely is no understatement as without the springs on yet it does seem a bit unsecure. push on the other shoe hold down spring without getting too agro like me .
 

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Discussion Starter #2
dont be shy and place that oval strut spring onto the strut. take note the strut is one directional and one sided.


the strut can go in now but i did find with a bit of pulling it can be removed and replaced later without too much hassle.


give both pads bit of a jiggle and push them inwards into position making sure your shoe spring hold down pins are reasonably straight.


finally we can start tightening up everything with a few springs. get these 2 on first after putting on the cylinder backing plate you can see in silver here. note: with the blue spring attatch the shoe end first then the hook end.


we are on the home straight now with the park brake return spring


looking good, lets get the orange return spring on. as with the blue coloured spring above these 2 springs need the ends that go onto the shoe attatched first. they dont seem very secure but once they twist in and the hook end of the spring is attatched there is no way these springs can come off.


now the light blue and i used my screw driver as a lever and then let the spring slide down the shaft to get this one home.


lets clean and lube both ends of the adjustor. take note one side of the car uses an anti clockwise thread and the other is clockwise so be carefull not mixing them up.


install the anchor spring and pad adjustor at the bottom and once again this spring can only go one way if you want it to clearance your adjustor. a bit of tinkering and you will see what i mean.


here is a better pic showing the clearance and the way the spring sits.
 

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Excellent instruction! Very visual.
Primary shoe goes to the front of vehicle, i.e., short friction material shoe.
 

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Hate to bust your bubble but looks like the shoes are on backwards in that last pic. Short shoe belongs on rear.

Jeff
Well I screwed that up again. I meant to say short shoe to the front (primary leading shoe). I see the orignal post has been edited now but I think all the pics except the last one have the short shoe to the rear.

Jeff
 
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