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I was looking for some input on rebuilding my 302 out of my 69 X77. I was looking for any tips for the rebuild other than keep it as stock as possible.

I have most all the original parts 1178 837 480 186's carb and intake etc missing some hardware stock fuel line and a few brackets. But was interested in opinions on the little things like freeze plugs drain cocks that would need to be replaced.

Here is where I am at right now. Block dropped off at shop with crank still installed. I scheduled rest of tear down, hot tank and spec's to see where we are at.

Before storage I oiled and then coated the block and crank with grease and wrapped it in paper then bagged. The cylinder's are smooth but may have a small ridge... (can not catch a finger nail on but can be felt with tip of finger?).

Pistons still have rods attached but not installed in motor. Heads where redone over the years by Jerry but have been wrapped up since. He also did the distributor for me, again wrapped up like the day he gave it to me. I will probably have him do the carb and the 837 before it is done.

The cam is an aftermarket as the fellow I bought it from raced the car. It also had a crane roller rocker arm set up.......Would like to have stock but open for opinions on that.

FWIW The car has been sitting almost 18 years weight off springs.... Not looking for a full restoration at this time.....I only want to get the motor back together and in the car so it can be driven......I think that over all it will be good for the car to do this at this time.

Thanks in advance 8 Ball

:reason for tear down was a broken distributor gear. So, I have never seen this motor run but there does not seem to be any visual damage in the block......
 

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Hey Matt.

Moved it for you.
 

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Agree with Al on the petcocks and brass plugs.
I would use moly rings, hone the cylinders, use a GM -140 camshaft, or its aftermarket equivalent, assemble and drive her. Leave the roller rockers.
JMT's
 

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Agree with Al on the petcocks and brass plugs.
I would use moly rings, hone the cylinders, use a GM -140 camshaft, or its aftermarket equivalent, assemble and drive her. Leave the roller rockers.
JMT's
Agree with Everett but just some thought, you mentioned a slight cly bore ridge? Meaning some wear. Might consider reaming that with a ridge reamer (easy) and going to moly rings that are .005 larger so you can fit the ring in the worn bore with closer ring end gaps. Not critical but if you wanted to hold blow by to a minimum.
Might even go a step further with roller rockers, check the rocker arm geometry. Hope valve guides are good.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Great suggestions please keep them coming.... I told machinist no rush so I do not know if it will even get to the hot tank for a week or two.

Thanks Al, sounds good.

Don, do you mean visible or spec wear?

Everett, New lifters and push rods with the cam? Timing chain? double roller?

How about an oil pump suggestion?.....again, not worried about my stock one just want to make sure I have good oil pressure.

Sorry, for all the q's but I have been neglecting my homework and have been away from my cars for to long....fwiw, I am searching the past posts for info...and will retain all original parts for the next care taker......so no worries there.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Everett sorry forgot how to edit a post.....I mean does gm have the new lifters push rods and cams and chain for this build? or do I need aftermarket for the 140?

This is what I cam up with from GM Performance parts
thanks again
 

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sorry but that is COMP cams not Crane
Sorry, Crane was what was in the motor.......I will correct when I figure out how to edit the post.......thanks zman
 

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Great suggestions please keep them coming.... I told machinist no rush so I do not know if it will even get to the hot tank for a week or two.

Thanks Al, sounds good.

Don, do you mean visible or spec wear?

Everett, New lifters and push rods with the cam? Timing chain? double roller?

How about an oil pump suggestion?.....again, not worried about my stock one just want to make sure I have good oil pressure.

Sorry, for all the q's but I have been neglecting my homework and have been away from my cars for to long....fwiw, I am searching the past posts for info...and will retain all original parts for the next care taker......so no worries there.

Thanks
Matt, what I was referring to is that normally when someone buys rings for a specific bore, the stock style ring gap is built in but adding any additional bore wear just makes those stock ring end gaps larger .
If my piston clearance is acceptable, I normally get the .005 over size ring. A normal set of .030 over bore will take these type rings but if you want to get picky and control ring end gap that controls more blow by , you can specify .035 or even in stock applications .005.
I recall Ramco rings offered this and I think Sealed Power or Speed-pro does.
Its not a mandatory thing , just old tailored engine specs.
To take the full benefit here, ring end gaps need to be filed to fit into the engine bore without the piston about an inch into a square bore then measured with a feeler guage.
If you don't fully understand it , no need to mess with it.
Stock Z 28 oil pumps or Mellings pumps are good. Just make sure the oil pump pick up tube is tack welded on or bolted on.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Don,

Thanks, I do follow you and will pass your fine suggestion along to the engine shop.

I want to put it together right the first time and not be starting a thread on what went wrong if you know what I mean......

BTW I love the Frost Green....:thumbsup:
 
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