You can find moisture on the valve covers in almost any engine. That's why you don't want to start your car in the winter, if you have it stored. A warm engine + cold outside air = moisture.
327 engine
I pulled my engine out today a 327 and when we pulled the oil pan off we found parts of the crackshaft seal wire retainer on the screen of the oil pump, approximatley half of it. We also found a piece of the seal retainer wire in the valve crank section and pulled a couple of rods to check the bearings. There was also pieces in the sludge on the bottom of the oil pan and we recovered about half the seal wire. This has definetley raised some alarm bells whether to put this engine back in my 67 camaro which I bought about 2 months ago. The thermostat was also put in upside down and there was also moisture on the underside of the valve covers and a small amount of water in the oil filter. We think the moisture is from the motor not making any heat.
With these discoveries I am now going to be looking for a rebuild or another engine. My engine is a 327 with T0304s on the front and GM 3782870 on the rear of the engine. Do I rebuild this engine or find something else?
With these discoveries I am now going to be looking for a rebuild or another engine. My engine is a 327 with T0304s on the front and GM 3782870 on the rear of the engine. Do I rebuild this engine or find something else?
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Sounds like just maybe somebody had trouble pulling the damper key outta the crank so just tried to install the timing cover over the woodruff key and ruined the seal and it's spring..
As for the T-Stat being upside down, it won't hurt anything except make it take longer to cycle the first time is all.. Not the best, but probably better than no T-Stat at all, imho...
pdq67
As for the T-Stat being upside down, it won't hurt anything except make it take longer to cycle the first time is all.. Not the best, but probably better than no T-Stat at all, imho...
pdq67
If it was mine I would disassemble it just to qualify it. The price you will pay for new rings, bearings, and gaskets is cheap insurance.
The stuff can't get past the filter so you are fine, imho!!
BUT that said, Farm Boy is right if you really want to know for sure if it is OK!!
And I've dropped a p/r down in an engine's pan and it was fine!!!
pdq67
BUT that said, Farm Boy is right if you really want to know for sure if it is OK!!
And I've dropped a p/r down in an engine's pan and it was fine!!!
pdq67
Sorry guys the stuff CAN get past the filter. If it gets past the pump strainer and through the pump.
The automotive filter has a built in 7# bypass, and he said it had water in the filter.
Filters are silicone-treated to stop water, and when that happens if there is enough water then the pressure differential usually increases to the opening point of the bypass. That's why we run full flow oil filters on industrial junk, we want the machine to shut itself off on low oil pressure instead of pumping nasty crap to our bearings.
Additionally there is a bypass in the filter base. The purpose of it is to pump unfiltered oil to your bearings when you are too lazy to prime your oil filter when you change oil and filter. Jegs has a little $7 teflon plug that fixes that one. Prime your oil filter anyway.
You got to decide what you expect of this engine. Do you want it perfect, or will a few stiff bones in the morning be OK?
You don't know if the engine's hurt until you see every journal etcetera.
But on the other hand if it ran OK, and had good oil pressure, that little garter spring didn't hurt anything. Maybe.
Now, water in the lube system is a bad thing. If you think it was due to storage then you could blow it off. If you know this engine has been used steadily since the last oil change however, you need to tear it down while you have it out of the car.
But your question was do you rebuild this one or find another.
Tear it down dude, then decide.
Later
Tim
The automotive filter has a built in 7# bypass, and he said it had water in the filter.
Filters are silicone-treated to stop water, and when that happens if there is enough water then the pressure differential usually increases to the opening point of the bypass. That's why we run full flow oil filters on industrial junk, we want the machine to shut itself off on low oil pressure instead of pumping nasty crap to our bearings.
Additionally there is a bypass in the filter base. The purpose of it is to pump unfiltered oil to your bearings when you are too lazy to prime your oil filter when you change oil and filter. Jegs has a little $7 teflon plug that fixes that one. Prime your oil filter anyway.
You got to decide what you expect of this engine. Do you want it perfect, or will a few stiff bones in the morning be OK?
You don't know if the engine's hurt until you see every journal etcetera.
But on the other hand if it ran OK, and had good oil pressure, that little garter spring didn't hurt anything. Maybe.
Now, water in the lube system is a bad thing. If you think it was due to storage then you could blow it off. If you know this engine has been used steadily since the last oil change however, you need to tear it down while you have it out of the car.
But your question was do you rebuild this one or find another.
Tear it down dude, then decide.
Later
Tim
I had the motor checked out and it already bored .40 over and the crank wasn't in good condition. The rebuilder recomended that I find another 327 block if I want something to last. I decieded to get a 350 built that will turn out 375 hp that comes with: camel hump heads, 202 valves, polished and ported, roller rocker tips, piston .30 over, 4 bolt main, 500 lift cam, double roller chain, high pressure oil pump, 750 double pumper
Just how much taper does the block's cylinders have b/c if it's less than .007 " to .010", just dingle-berry hone her and go.
AND how bad is the crank too??
It will be fine if it just has ridge's around it and is smooth across the journals otherwise.. Just install new bearings in her and go.
NOW before I get flamed, old motors will live a long and decent life, although they will probably use some oil and have some piston rattle when cold!!!
I figure that you have a small journal 327 so it will have a forged crank in it and I'm here to say, forged SB cranks are tough parts!!!
Plus, if it was running fine although using oil before you tore her down, all you basically are doing is just tightening her up using new rings and bearings so she may last say, another 50,000 miles!!!
NOT the best, but if you are bucks down, it will allow you to drive her long enough to save up enough money so that you can put a GOOD engine in her later, properly!!
Am I "shade-tree" or what!!!
He, He!!
pdq67
PS., and I drove my old S/W for years after doing a $150, "dingle-berry hone and Krylon", overhaul to her years ago FINE!!!
AND how bad is the crank too??
It will be fine if it just has ridge's around it and is smooth across the journals otherwise.. Just install new bearings in her and go.
NOW before I get flamed, old motors will live a long and decent life, although they will probably use some oil and have some piston rattle when cold!!!
I figure that you have a small journal 327 so it will have a forged crank in it and I'm here to say, forged SB cranks are tough parts!!!
Plus, if it was running fine although using oil before you tore her down, all you basically are doing is just tightening her up using new rings and bearings so she may last say, another 50,000 miles!!!
NOT the best, but if you are bucks down, it will allow you to drive her long enough to save up enough money so that you can put a GOOD engine in her later, properly!!
Am I "shade-tree" or what!!!
He, He!!
pdq67
PS., and I drove my old S/W for years after doing a $150, "dingle-berry hone and Krylon", overhaul to her years ago FINE!!!
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
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