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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know there is a lot of topics already discussing this but cant find my particular situation so here it goes. I have a 67 Camaro with a 350, NEW starter, NEW plugs gaped at .45, and new 4 Barrel Carb. It starts just fine in the morning or when it has had a couple hours to cool off but if am running around town and shut it off for 10-30 min it has a hard time starting back up. I have flooded it twice after this has happened. Any help here would be great.

Thanks
Thomas
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It's not over heating at all, would the gap being bigger burn hotter? It was doing it before I changed plugs as well. Just got out of shop in December, I asked him to look at the timming and tune the carb. Runs better since then, I've had the car two years and this is a new problem that just started about two weeks ago.
 

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Did it start doing this when the carb was replaced? Do you have a choke and is it open all the way when you restart it or is it paritially closed? Are you pumping the pedal any when restarting?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The carb was replaced last summer and it just started doing this, it has electric choke and I pump gas once then turn it over. I pump it if it doesnt start. It fires right up in the mornings or if its sat for a couple hours.
 

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This sounds to me like heat soak. After you shut the engine off, the heat in the block has to go somewhere so it rises and ends up into the carb. Once the fuel hits the carb, it vaporizes too early and doesn't get into the cylinders.

There are a few things you can do. The first is to make sure the engine stays as cool as possible and that the radiator is full etc. After that, you can try running a spacer between the carb and the intake. Assuming you have room under the hood that is. The larger the spacer, the harder it will be for the heat to transfer through into the carb.
 

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The timing could be a little bit too advanced also. Try backing it off a couple of degrees see if it helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I made sure I had a full radiator, I will go pick up a spacer this weekend and try that. There is not much room under the hood, not a cowl hood. What is the smallest spacer they sell?
 

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Obviously the larger the spacer the better. What I would do is take a piece of clay, roll it into a cylinder type shape and place it on top of the air cleaner. Close the hood and that will show you how much hood clearance you have.

They spell spacers quite small. As small as a quarter inch I believe. If you don't think that will fit, you can always buy a piece of aluminum and fab your own.

A couple other things to try would be heat shields above your headers/exhaust manifolds or even wrapping the fuel lines with some type of insulation. Anything to get rid of heat will help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks!! The clay idea is genius haha. Also I noticed the last time I had the carb off that one of the holes is bout to strip out. Is Heli Coil the best bet to fix that while I have it apart? Can you Heli coil the intake there? A little off subject but you seem to have this knewledge stuff wrapped up!
 

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What holes are you referring to? That carb should be bolted to the intake with four studs coming out of the intake itself with four nuts that hold it on. There aren't any holes that can strip...

One more thing about the clay idea, make sure you put the clay in a few different areas on the air cleaner. One all the way towards the front of the car and a couple at the highest point of the air cleaner.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Sorry, the front stud hole is almost stripped out. Found that when I replaced the carb. The guy that had it before me used a Bolt on the front driver side stud hole for some stupid reason so it needs to be fixed. The other 3 have the studs, I am guessing it stripped out and instead of Heli Coil he just tapped in a bigger hole. I dont try and understand some people I just work with what they give me haha!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I replaced it with 600 CFM 4 Barrel Street Carb Part# 0-80457S. It was an "automatic" float adjustment carb but my car was in the shop back in December and I had him go ahead and check it out and check timing too. He said he adjusted the carb a little.
 

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If it was a new engine I would say be patient the rings are tight and the motor is jammed - Let her cool down but I would say your fuel is peculating out of the bowls. Check your Float Level and install an Aluminum Plate that extends under the Bowls over the intake manifold and mounts between with in the Carb and Intake Plenum.

See that Plate it's there for a reason and I don't even run an Intake Exhaust Plenum Heat Cross-Over:
 

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Here we go Tom! I will now add my 2 centsmake it a nickel,s worth . When you say it starts hard does it crank normally or is it slow cranking and after a bit it cranks normally and then starts. Assuming that you have checked out any fuel and timing issues and it,s ok now you should check for starter draw. If it is drawing too much current your starter is probably on the way out. If you are running hi comp and a hot cam you need a hi tork starter. This used to be a common problem years ago with hot sbc,s. I attended a seminar on starters alternators and electrical systems put on by Guaranteed Ignition and Arrow Armature. The way they cured the problem was to use 6Volt battery cables and a HEAVY DUTY HI TORK STARTER Something with 4 field coils and a larger armature for more twist . The larger cables wereused so as not to loose power to the starter. I had this problem with my own Camaro and iused this method to cure it and it worked . Hope this helps and gives you another perspective. Good luck Alex
 

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if all that dont fix it-i would look at the vapor lock issue--fuel line too close to exhaust and mainly venting tank -try leaving gas cap loose when turning off motor until after restart
 

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Assuming the car is cranking fine on hot restart, I think it's probably carb related. If it's not cranking fast on hot restart I would start looking at the battery and starter and wiring including the yellow wire that runs from the solenoid to the coil to make sure you aren't losing enough juice to cause spark problems.

These are the things I would check on the carb:

1. Make sure the choke is all the way open on the hot restart
2. See if you have gas trickling down the carb throat after you turn it off hot.
3. See if you get a good squirt of gas from the accelerator pump when you move the throttle a little.

You said you were flooding it sometimes on restart so I'm thinking your choke is setting closed when it shouldn't be or you have gas leaking down the throat when it's sitting after turning it off.

If you give more detail on what it does when it won't start it would help trouble shoot. Does it crank slow or normal? Does it kick at all or just crank and not even kick?
 
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