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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i just removed my auto and replaced with a brand new auto-gear 4-speed. my problem is: i have to have the pedal all the way down to fully engage the clutch and feels like it should still go more since when i shift in reverse it grinds. it starts to move when the pedal is abot 1/2" off the floor board. i'm out of adjustment on the clutch linkage but even if i could adjust it more then the throwout bearing would be touching the pressure plate all the time. i have a new flywheel, 11" ram gripper clutch and pressure plate with throw out bearing i bought all at once that was advised by summit rep. any suggestions????????????
 

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Maybe you have the wrong adjuster on your clutch set up. I'd look into that first.
 

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I would guesstimate the pressure plate needs replacment. The diaphram is too soft or not strong enough to work against the springs provided.

Another item to check is the firewall the pedal assembly is attached. Is the firewall flexing as the clutch is pushed in?

If you were to install an OE clutch, I would wager the system would work. Just my thoughts.

Nice car AND garage by the way!
 

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I have the same transmission .. there are a few things you can look at ... i believe that there are a few different clutch forks I am betting that you have the wrong clutch fork installed or your clutch fork is installed improperly... also check how much play you have top and bottom... you obviously dont have enuff play at the bottom of clutch play but how about the top how far do you push the pedal down before the clutch starts to grab? I am not sure how good the syncros are on these transmissions i have a bit of a grinding issue and the shifts arent as solid as i would like but it holds a shift well and has never popped out of gear.. i hope this tranny shifts better as it breaks in.

I hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have the clutch adjusted so the throw-out bearing is off the press. plate by about 1/4 inch it feels ok but it still grinds just a little bit if I shift hard and fast from 3rd to 4th and when I down shift to second unless I'm going pretty slow. I talked to the guy that built the tranny and he said it sounds like the shaft on the tranny is in a bind? that I should pull it and put a dial indicator on the bell housing to see if its centered up with the pilot bushing. I never heard of that and didn't think they were that critical. Has anyone else heard of this? any input would be helpful thanks.
 

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Bellhousing off center has been known to happen. If shaft is in a bind, and clutch not releasing all the way will tend to continue to turn input shaft.

Nissan has given the rule a count to 9 for being able to shift from an engaged clutch to a disengaged clutch. I find it to be a good Rule-of-Thumb.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I ordered a new clutch fork from GM just in case there's something going on there. I used a input shaft needle bearing kindof hard to believe that would bind enough to not let the shaft freely spin?? mabe I didn't seat it deep enough. the crankshaft is indented about a 1/4" and I put it flush with that. It has about a !/4" gap behind it before it bottoms out completly. Does this sound allright??
 

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Since you went from an auto trans. to a manual I assume you had to install a clutch pedal assembly. I ran into the same problem when I installed a Tremec 5 speed into my car. When installing the pedal linkage I put the rod which goes to the bellcrank into the upper hole of the clutch pedal, which is where the neutral switch is supposed to go, and I had poor adjustment and grinding when placing the trans. in gear. When I placed the rod in the lower hole I was able to get the proper adjustment and engage the transmission easily with no grinding. Possibly your problem?
 

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OH whats the rule a count to 9 meen?? count to nine between shifts.
At rest, engine idling, depress clutch, count to 9, can trans be shifted?

If it goes into gear, clutch is releasing and gears have stopped turning, car's at rest, good.

If the trans grinds gears when shifted into gear, clutch is not releasing.

Your 1/4 inch before bottoming out is fine and needle bearing is fine. I still wager if you put in an OE clutch package, it would work.

How much free play in clutch pedal?
Do you have the return spring hooked up to throw out fork and either the driver frame mount or header tube??
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The return spring hooked to stock exaust manifold bolt with a clip.have to check free play I asume you meen before it makes contact with pressure plate. I did notice when the engine is cold at first start up I can shift in and out of reverse with no grinding but it seems as engine heats up then it dont release all the way?? got me stumped. Mabe as it gets hot somethings expanding causing something not to move freely but don't know what????????????????
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Everett I got a new clutch fork from from GM. I will change that out on mon. or tues. and if that don't fix it I will take pics of everything so you can look them over. My question is: will the clutch fork from gm fit both small and big block or are they different I don't remember him asking when I ordered it. Does anyone know what the correct gm part number is for the clutch fork for a 396? Wouldn't hurt to check him to see if I got the right one. Thanks
 

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# my book is showing is 3892632. This is for Chevelle, Camaro, and Nova. Chevy pass cars is 3860005.
Clutch rod is 9779202
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Here's the update for all that has helped and to all who might encounter the same problem. I Replaced clutch fork with original gm 3892632 clutch fork. There were scuff marks on the end of the pilot bearing housing (the outside part that compresses next to the flywheel) this led me to believe that the shaft of the transmision was bottoming out against the flywheel. I was able to set it in about 1/16" deeper there must be a ridge inside the crank to prevent it from bottoming out in the crank. otherwise it would be hard to get anything behind it to remove later. I also I had to use a longer rod from bell crank to clutch fork for adjustment I don't know why? The first rod I tried to use was 6 1/4" I lengthend the rod about 1". There was about 1/2" gap between the throwout bearing and pressure plate. I tried a longer thow out bearing first but it wouldn't fit (to tight) thats why I needed the longer rod to adjust out some of that slack. I guess an adjustable clutch fork ball would do the same thing but wasn't available. Clutch feels good now engagement is up toward the top now and not right off the floor as before. Clutch pedal is a lot smoother feeling and I dont have to fight it in gear, it slides right in gear. Thanks to everyone for there help and advice. Team Camaro Rocks!!!!!!!:thumbsup:
 
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