Pulling this out of the thin air. Are the Trans lines hooked up right to the Rad., There not reversed are they?
scratch that i see it has 3600 miles on it and it would have been a problem long ago
Jeff 67/68 & 69 RS's
65 442 www.hobbystage.net/camaro/hawaiiancamaro
[This message has been edited by HawaiianCamaro (edited 02-21-2002).]
Trans has it's own cooler and the fluid looks new and does not smell burnt as it would if it were getting hot from friction. Trans was still working fine when it started this after a run down I-state. Was not over full either as nothing had been added since rebuild. Talked to the man that built it and he does not seem to know either. Thats why I am asking you guys. www.geocities.com/jhow66/2-.html
Sounds like it is getting hot....is the cooler adequate (size)?....ooh....just thought of something else....how is the cooler mounted?....are the connecting lines at the bottom?....the cooler should be mounted so that the lines connect from the sides....I have never personally experienced this, but "they" say that if the cooler is mounted where the lines attach at the bottom it is possible for the cooler to airlock....I don't know why the fluid will not push the air through,(doesn't make sense to Me) but I have heard of this happening.....also someone will probably say that a cooler should be used in conjunction WITH the radiator cooler as the engine coolant will take higher heat from the trans fluid.......I'm just guessing that this was the first long run down the interstate....(You weren't speeding were Ya?
) and just trying to throw some more thoughts at Ya......
Me speed!!! with just a little old 502 HO. (3.08 Posi) naaaw.
I was making my 1st run after installing big tube headers and 21/2" FlowMasters. Man did they make a difference!! I have got a cooler mounted on frame rail made out of 5' of finned SS 1/2" tubing. Is this enough?
IMHO, if your gonna run it on the street, you really need to have a real cooler on it. You should be plumbing it through the water-to-oil cooler in the radiator and then the external cooler or, have a dedicated electric fan on your oil-to-air, external cooler.
It doesn't sound like you have enough air moving over the tubing even when the car is moving, and when you are stopped and idling, your current system doesn't do anything to get rid of all the heat that your trans is making!
Remember, short of breaking the input shaft, the only thing you can do to that automatic to hurt it is overheat it. Juice boxes hate heat!!! Heat beats up the clutches and seals in a big hurry. It pays to have a good cooler "system" on a performance automatic.
Just my $.02
[This message has been edited by PDQUICK (edited 02-22-2002).]
You need to use the cooler in the radiator tank first, then to the auxiliary cooler on the way back to the trans; the one in the radiator is far more effective than the added one - that's why it's called an "auxiliary" cooler - not intended to be a replacement for the primary cooler in the radiator tank.
A forum community dedicated to 1st generation Chevy Camaros owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, builds, restoration, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, reviews, and more!