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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey Guys need your help! I have a 454 block that I'm rebuilding for my 68 and need some help figuring out which way to go with it. I'm not sure what the differences are between a 454 and a 427 torque, highend,street manners, ect. I can go either way with it I'm just not sure what would work best for me. I'm not looking for a racer just a good strong street machine thats reliable and fun to drive. M-20 behind it with 3:73 grears. Thanks for the help.
 

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A 454 is a stroked 427. I think you'll like one.
One thing; don't mix internal stuff and balancers and flywheels between the two engines. A 454 is externally balanced and 427 balancers/flywheels won't work.
 

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I'm biased, but a 427 will run circles around a 454! :D You'll get alot of recommendations here to bore it .060" and put a 4.25" crank kit in in and make it a 496. I realize there is no replacement for displacement, but my favorite is the 427.
 

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Build it as big and strong as you can or you'll get tired of getting your a$$ handed to you by those that do.
If you don't already have a crank or rods, it's a no-brainer. Get an internal balance 4.25" stroke setup, you can even use the Scat "9000" crank, it's nodular iron and rated at 700hp, less than $300. Same for their rods, stick with I beams and you're around $275 for those. Forged pistons - Probe are the cheapest that still have good QC, less than $500. If you're going to have to buy it all anyway, why not get the best bang for the buck???
Point is, even though it's mostly a street cruiser, once you get into it good a few times, it'll be a street/strip ride. Once you find the limits of the 427 (one of my favorite engines, too, but cubes rule :D), you'll wish for more. I've seen it time and time again.
 

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One way of looking at it outside of rpm-driveablility differences between a short and a longer stroked engine is 1hp per cubic inch!

427 make's 427hp and a 454 make's 454hp or thereabout's discounting slightly higher engine friction w/ the 454. Torque goes up too!

pdq67
 

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my next motor is a .060 over 454. You just cant beat the reliability and performance that a 454 offers. I had the 406 done before i bought the block but you can bet after the 406 goes in goes the big block. The guy who helps me with my motors runs 6.30s (1/8th in a 3500 lb chevelle with a .100 over with 2.25 1.88 iron heads. He is 72 and the motor has been in the car since he was 65 and only had to freshen it up. No rebuilds. Cant beat the 454 but as these guys were saying bigger is always better. Cheap stroker cranks heads for the 502 out cheap. Im expecting $3000 for around 500 horses and 550lbs of torque. Go big man. Plus with the extra cubes way more torque down low and you wont have to turn many rpms. I see no downfalls other than the wieght.
 

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Since the cost is about the same for the sub parts (crank, pistons etc), I would always go more displacement, unless you are concerned about gas mileage, but I am assuming since we are talking big block already that isn't much of a concern.

If you are going to spend the time and money rebuilding a big block you might as well bore the heck out of it, and stroke it, since it takes the same time and money either way. Popular displacements are 496 (060 over with 4.250 crank) or 489 (030 over with 4.250 crank). I went 489 with mine just because I had a GenV block that wouldn't allow me to bore it out so much.

The Torque (and what you want for the street is torque) curve on built 489 or 496 motor is insane and very flat as well.
 

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Helped my son last weekend building his new 496. It's an aluminum headed monster with a .725ish lift solid roller and 12.3:1 CR. Can't wait to fire it up. Like I always say kal, this is the engine that slaughtered the street hemi.
 

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I have a question related to this thread.

When I was much younger, I listened to people tell me that certain engines could take high rpm and certain engines can't.
I heard that big blocks can't take big rpm's like over 7000.

I realize it has a lot to do with the quality and strength of parts being installed. I've noticed that most stock red lines are set around 5500 rpms for V8's. Is that because the cam only makes power to there or is it because the engine's parts that are installed can't handle more than that?

Eventually, I am going to rebuild my 468 and I'm seriously considering the 496 route.

What sort of rpm's are the high limit of a motor like that?

I have my car doing mid 11's with a 468 that is light 50 psi on one cylinder. I figure a fresh motor should make it faster but there is a rpm issue.
I am running a 4:88 gear and already, I'm crossing the line at 7000 rpm. I'd like to get more mph and I do plan to change the gears to something around 4:10 but I'm pretty sure there will be a trade off there too.

So I'd like to know the rpm limits of big blocks. I've heard with my own ears some pretty high r's with 427's. Is a shorter stroke able to handle more rpm's because of the shorter distance of the stroke?

Not a real guru as is obvious but I've always wanted to understand the rpm limits of engines more and since I have a BBC and this thread is about bore and stroke, I thought it appropriate to ask.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well it sounds like the 454 route is getting the nod from most people. Besides BIGGER IS BETTER is there any major differences that make the 454 a better street engine?
 

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If bigger truly is better, screw the 454, the 496 is the way to go!

Piston speed is generally the limiting factor with stock or mild parts. Once you get to 7000 rpm's, they're moving, regardless of the stroke. Good crank, good rods, good pistons, all lightweight but not insanely so. Very good valvetrain with a solid cam, either flat or solid. I see 555's hit 7500 all the time, making power all the way there.
It just takes good parts - junk in, junk out.
 

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If bigger truly is better, screw the 454, the 496 is the way to go!

Piston speed is generally the limiting factor with stock or mild parts. Once you get to 7000 rpm's, they're moving, regardless of the stroke. Good crank, good rods, good pistons, all lightweight but not insanely so. Very good valvetrain with a solid cam, either flat or solid. I see 555's hit 7500 all the time, making power all the way there.
It just takes good parts - junk in, junk out.
A 555 at 7500. I gotta say WOW!
That must sound amazing.

So what is a very good crank made out of? Billet steele? Forged steele?

And what about pistons? Forged aluminum?
 

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The trend around here is for people to disguise a 502 or larger motor and call it a 454. 427s are alot more rare and everyone has built or at least had or seen a 454. Parts are cheaper due to that fact. Ive seen a 8.5 comp stock(yeah Stock) 454 take about a 200 shot constantly and turn 6500. I spent 4000 for a 6.90 small block and could have had a 500 horse 6.50 big block. Whatever you do spend money were needed or youl regret it.
 

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Dumb question of the week (but serious):

a. Is it possible to build the 496 to look like a stock 396?

b. Can a Quadrajet provide enough fuel for a 496 on the street?
 

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Kallas..my 427 will fly by 454,s and 502,s.Problem being..is that the larger displacement engines are turning lower rpm with better street manners than mine.I hate to say it..but my refresh will include a 4.250 vs the 3.760 arm.And no..the forged oem crank will not become a mailbox mount..she will be hung high in the rafters as the little crank that could.:D
 

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Dumb question of the week (but serious):

a. Is it possible to build the 496 to look like a stock 396?

b. Can a Quadrajet provide enough fuel for a 496 on the street?
No question is dumb imo.
yes you can stealth a 496 and badge it a 396.
yes.a quadrajet will feed enough air/fuel for a street/strip 496
 
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