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. Look up rail car in a vacuum. It’s a good demonstration of the atmospheric pressure pushing on a structure that is not designed to withstand that type of force.
[/QUOTE]Very true There are probably hundreds of thousands of hydropneumatic tanks in water systems designed to hold pressure in. Have a leak and loss of pressure without vacuum relief and you have an imploded tank. Expensive mess.
 

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I wouldn’t trust that CPP filter at all. Zero zip nada….

Try it without the filter. If it’s too restrictive you will have an aeration/cavitation issue imho….

Don
 
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Don,
Do you have a suggestion on a filter with AN connections?
No but let’s see if it works without the filter before searching for a replacement. To be honest I’ve not seen any OEM applications with filters. Maybe I’m not looking hard enough. I’ve heard of guys having problems due to filter flow restrictions. Mark Stielow was one of them if I recall correctly. He ripped it out….

Don
 
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Discussion Starter · #105 ·
I wouldn’t trust that CPP filter at all. Zero zip nada….

Try it without the filter. If it’s too restrictive you will have an aeration/cavitation issue imho….

Don
Thats exactly what I was thinking! Before I move it & re-do the lines. I was gona remove it all-together and see if anything changes. I hope its That simple!
 

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1968 Camaro LS3 TH400
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No but let’s see if it works without the filter before searching for a replacement. To be honest I’ve not seen any OEM applications with filters. Maybe I’m not looking hard enough. I’ve heard of guys having problems due to filter flow restrictions.

Don
Ok Thanks.
I looked in the filter and it’s not much more than a ( 100 micron ) screen. It could very well be the culprit.
Thats exactly what I was thinking! Before I move it & re-do the lines. I was gona remove it all-together and see if anything changes. I hope its That simple!
Yes let’s hope it is the solution, I’m not looking forward to having any of these issues.
 

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If that is in fact a fuel filter (I'm thinking it is) Fuel seems quite a bit thinner than hydraulic fluid. If the fluid is being restricted by the filter, it surely seems like that would induce cavitation/air. Here is a good power steering filter - shows 190 micron filter?
Brett....

280276
 
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I have never seen a factory set up with a filter. My truck doesn't have one either. Regardless...In my opinion, Your hose routing is going to boil the power steering fluid or burn a hose. I know there isn't much room, but it looks way too close to me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #110 ·
I have never seen a factory set up with a filter. My truck doesn't have one either. Regardless...In my opinion, Your hose routing is going to boil the power steering fluid or burn a hose. I know there isn't much room, but it looks way too close to me.
i understand what you are saying - I have given myself as much room as I can get in there. Old hosses were similar in distance to headers . I did some header wrap to help with heat transfer. I don't know what else I can do about that
 

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Discussion Starter · #111 ·
280305
This was easier that I expected but my helper is off today and I gota go to work in a bit so can't do anything else untill tomorrow.
 

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That looks like a major flow restrictor.

Don
 
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FWIW, I have a Hydro-boost on my '68. After trying and failing to get it all working with a T-fitting for the return lines, I obtained an aluminum remote reservoir, fit it with a second return so the rack (in my case) and the hydro-boost each had their own returns to the reservoir. Problems solved.
 

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Discussion Starter · #114 · (Edited)
Well, I removed the filter like we talked about and did not see any real difference. We did the lock to lock / pump the brakes thing again and were still getting air out of the system...

Few new bits of data.
Not new but peddle is still pulling itself down when car is running.
Mostly air comes out when you are fully turning the wheel to the Right (like 96+% of the time).
We started the car and ran it for 10 Min - while it was running we did the lock to lock / pump thing. One thing we noticed that we did not feel like we had power steering until about 1/2 way threw this. I guess there is still air in the box causing issues? I was checking the temp of the fluid and it was bouncing around from 150F to 205F... From what I read online that seems withing the range? Again air is still in there so not sure what that is doing to the system.

I have a call into Turn One tech and am currently on hold with POL. Ima see if this new info means anything to them.

Update - Just spoke with POL - they were pointing the finger at the steering box. Said there was nothing that could be wrong with there system. Talked me threw the bleeding procedure and made sure lines were correct.
ALSO Just spoke with Turn One - He also verified the lines were ran correctly. He said I was purging the air out of the system incorrectly. Jack the front of the car off the ground. He said don't press the brakes at all. Turn the wheel lock to lock 10 times. Start the car and do the same thing again, then shut it down and let it sit 24hrs. He said I should make sure not to run out of fluid. He then was suspect of the Hydroboost and more so the Pump. He had a lot of negative things to say about the pump. He admits that he dose not offer a pump for my application as I tried to get one from him a while back. AND finally he said Don't call back! He said he has spent to much time with me and none of my issues had anything to do with his products. He said he don't have the resources to keep helping me.

I gota tell you- this kinda blows my mind. I mean what the hell... I have spoken with companies that I haven't even bought things from and gotten help. He knows without a dought that its got nothing to do with his product??? I hope he was right with his last bit of golden advice. Cause I am cut off...
 

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I can sympathize with him a little.

To be honest there is only one system I would buy and that is Hydratech. I’ve installed a couple of their systems without a hitch. The kit is complete and the instructions extremely detailed. I’ve also used several Turn One boxes and they have been flawless.

FWIW I never first time start an engine without first slowly cycling the steering end to end many many many times until I can hear that the air is out of the system. I turn the wheel, not the steering wheel so my ear is right down by the pump and box so I can hear the air moving in the system. Wheels are off the ground so the system is in no way loaded.

Don
 

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Did any of those company's offer to accept a return / refund if your not happy with their product?
 

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Here’s a pragmatic approach….when all else fails.
Eliminate the y by dumping the weep ( little hose) and run it into the top of your pump by whatever means necessary. It takes it out of the loop. It’s just a return, and a very low volume one at that.
The pedal trying to apply itself seems like the hydra boost is in the “ braking “ position, or the return to “ no braking “ position is inhibited. But you verified that it is in fully retracted so….
it seems like I remember you verified the intermediate pin ( that small rod from the hydra boost to the master) is correct .
it would suck to just run everything like it was power steering only , but it would verify the pump and the box…..nobody has trouble with that setup…. well I’m just running my mouth but I’m never going to tell you DONT CALL BACK !
Im sorry Cory , I’m running out of silly suggestions
 

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Again, FWIW, I had some brake pedal kickback when I first installed the hydroboost and operated the car. The brake pedal kickback stopped pretty quickly.

I second Don's recommendation of Hydratech. They helped me trouble shoot several issues with my install, even though I didn't purchase their system. Really good people.
 

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Discussion Starter · #119 ·
I can sympathize with him a little.

To be honest there is only one system I would buy and that is Hydratech. I’ve installed a couple of their systems without a hitch. The kit is complete and the instructions extremely detailed. I’ve also used several Turn One boxes and they have been flawless.

FWIW I never first time start an engine without first slowly cycling the steering end to end many many many times until I can hear that the air is out of the system. I turn the wheel, not the steering wheel so my ear is right down by the pump and box so I can hear the air moving in the system. Wheels are off the ground so the system is in no way loaded.

Don
They diddent have an Issue taking my $1100 dollars. I am sorry to have to call anyone - I dont want to have these issues... This is absolute insanity. am desperate!
Hydratech - Hind site is always 20/20 and who knows if the POL system is the problem??? Haven't figured out whats causing peddle issues....
the car was NOT started or run without MANY MANY cocles of the steering and brakes.

Did any of those company's offer to accept a return / refund if your not happy with their product?
ABSOLUTELY NOT! They just blame each other and assure me there stuff is perfect.

Here’s a pragmatic approach….when all else fails.
Eliminate the y by dumping the weep ( little hose) and run it into the top of your pump by whatever means necessary. It takes it out of the loop. It’s just a return, and a very low volume one at that.
The pedal trying to apply itself seems like the hydra boost is in the “ braking “ position, or the return to “ no braking “ position is inhibited. But you verified that it is in fully retracted so….
it seems like I remember you verified the intermediate pin ( that small rod from the hydra boost to the master) is correct .
it would suck to just run everything like it was power steering only , but it would verify the pump and the box…..nobody has trouble with that setup…. well I’m just running my mouth but I’m never going to tell you DONT CALL BACK !
Im sorry Cory , I’m running out of silly suggestions
Thank you - I have already decided to eliminate the y and run the weep line back to the top of the tank temporarily to see if thats helps anything.
I did verify the peddle and pin but if all else fails I may make the peddle SLOPPY and see if that helps anything.
I thank you for all the help and honestly was kinda shocked when he told me that.

Again, FWIW, I had some brake pedal kickback when I first installed the hydroboost and operated the car. The brake pedal kickback stopped pretty quickly.

I second Don's recommendation of Hydratech. They helped me trouble shoot several issues with my install, even though I didn't purchase their system. Really good people.
Hydratech would have bin great to buy from if I knew 6 months ago what I know now. Its not Kick back its self applying. I may call them if all else fails.

I went with Turn One based 100% on the recommendations of guys here. I am sure they are all that and a bag of chips. They have bin helpful. I went with POL based of recommendation from guys here. At least they never said don't call back! I'm just still having issues and don't know where to turn. I am not asking for anything free. I am willing to pay if that what it takes to fix this thing. I have bought every component NEW and tried to buy the pump from Turn one! I am Sorry its bin this long of a nightmare - I have not enjoyed this at all, let me tell ya. I would PAY for tech time if I could get help fixing this! I still have my OLD power steering pump so I may swap that out if I keep having issues.

I do want to say thank you guys. Truly yall are the Biggest Help I have found. I know I can be hard headed (motor mounts)... But I really do value the Input from you guys. I am trying EVERYTHING. Just still struggling. Again, Thank you
 

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FWIW the chances of the problem being the steering box are extremely low. Disconnect the hydroboost from the power steering system and see what happens with the aeration. Use a process of elimination….

Don
 
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