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67 RS/SS w pop 68 RS/SS Vert 69 SS Vert w/pop all born with drivetrains
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Discussion Starter #1
Car was parked after an accident. The motor was pulled and rebuilt but never started. I used a scope in the cylinders and there is some gummy oil and gunk sitting in the lower cylinder wall. I also removed the exhaust manifolds and the exhaust valves have some rust and gunk. There is some surface rust on the top end of the heads but the lifters look ok. There is no oil in the oil pan. rusting Can I oil the heck out of everything and try to turn it over or should I just go ahead and pull it out for a disassembly and reassembly by a motor shop. This is the original motor.
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If this was my engine, I'd disassemble and reassemble as there are too many unknowns. I bet the con bearings are toast.

Good luck and keep us posted.
 

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I say fire it up and go for it. Nothing lose.
 

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If it were me I’d fire it up and drive it like I stole it. If it breaks then tear it down. If it doesn’t break you avoided tearing it down.

Don
 
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67 RS/SS w pop 68 RS/SS Vert 69 SS Vert w/pop all born with drivetrains
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Discussion Starter #6
I am worried about the Cam. Will priming the oil pump lubricate it enough to avoid damage?
 

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For the price of gaskets and a valve job I'd pull it apart for sure. It's a hell of a lot easier to do it now then have to pull it back out of the car.
 

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My motor was rebuilt and sat for 10 years. I have 30k trouble free miles on it. And I beat the hell out of it. Bought my friend's BB Chevelle that sat for thirty years and it fired right off and the engine was fine. That is just two of many engines that sat for years.

Why are people so paranoid about starting an engine? I guess I'm just used to people who do this every day.
 

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I agree with John and Scott, have started many engines over the years, have one now in my vert that sat for who knows how long. Its real easy to say just tear it down and spent more money,
 

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67 RS/SS w pop 68 RS/SS Vert 69 SS Vert w/pop all born with drivetrains
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Discussion Starter #10
Im worried because the motor was never started after rebuild, Im afraid the assembly lube they may have used on the bearings may have dried out over time. If it had been started and broken in I wouldn't thinks twice about it.
 

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Why would the lube have dried out? Mine never did after 10 years and like I said I beat my car to death after 30K miles. My engine never saw a dyno. If you are that freaked out then put it on a stand and run it. I've had many customers break in their motors on a stand. Sounds like you need to rebuild your motor because you do not trust yourself and do not this everyday and deal with gearheads everyday. This hobby is fading fast.
 

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Im worried because the motor was never started after rebuild, Im afraid the assembly lube they may have used on the bearings may have dried out over time. If it had been started and broken in I wouldn't thinks twice about it.
Was going to be my comment if it was not broken in. Use the correct high zinc oil for break in and pre-lube it. You can make a pre-lube tool from an old distributor.
 

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67 RS/SS w pop 68 RS/SS Vert 69 SS Vert w/pop all born with drivetrains
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Discussion Starter #13
Why would the lube have dried out? Mine never did after 10 years and like I said I beat my car to death after 30K miles. My engine never saw a dyno. If you are that freaked out then put it on a stand and run it. I've had many customers break in their motors on a stand. Sounds like you need to rebuild your motor because you do not trust yourself and do not this everyday and deal with gearheads everyday. This hobby is fading fast.
When I scoped the cylinders I noticed what looked like motor oil dried out to a stain, if you look at the pictures I posted. It just makes me nervous, thanks for your input.
 

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I agree with John and Scott, have started many engines over the years, have one now in my vert that sat for who knows how long. Its real easy to say just tear it down and spent more money,
And many have more expendable cash then others...there is that fact.
 

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1967 Camaro SS 350
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I say, oil it, spin it over by hand, pre lube it and fire it up! If you are that nervous and it is out of the car oil it, prelude it and run it on a stand or pay to have it broken in on a dyno? Not sure of cost to do that thought.
Derek
 

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If the motor is installed than put high zinc content 30 wt (aka "break in") oil in it and spin motor over with fuel line pinched and coil unplugged until you get oil pressure. Then fire it up and do the 20 min @ 2k rpm (assuming its a flat tappet cam) break in. Drain oil, change filter and drive doing a ring set procedure and then drive "normal" (read don't baby) but do not sustain a steady RPM for any long period for 500 mi. Change oil & filter and drive it like you stole it.

If motor is out of the car and you just are not comfortable with what you see than pull the heads & cam for a "better" look. At that point pulling it apart, quick hone, check bearing condition and clearances and reassemble with new gaskets and seals

FWIW many a "new" factory built motor have sat in warehouses for years and then sold and installed/started as any normal "new" engine would be without issue

I bought a new, 13 year old, Gen 2 LT1 from a dealership for $2300 years ago and it has run perfect since. YMMV
 

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OK you can tear apart now and rebuild it. Or you can start it up and see what happens if the worst happens you have to rebuild it in my opinion same same and worth the risk
 
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