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The only part that will squeal like you describe is the throw out bearing. You can look at the rest of the parts after the trans is out
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I plan to replace the clutch once I have the transmission out.

Can you all recommend what clutch you would install?

I drive it a few times a month. I drive it hard. I definitely do not want a racing clutch. Something that can withstand a few burnouts once in a while, some hard shifting, but still comfortable to drive around casually.
 

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I think the synchros in the trans will move the rear wheels under no load. With that noise I bet the throw out bearing is destroyed.
 

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The only part that will squeal like you describe is the throw out bearing. You can look at the rest of the parts after the trans is out
The pilot bearing can make it squeal when the clutch is engaged also.

A few thoughts.for Steve
  1. If you get it apart and it has a roller pilot bearing replace it with sintered bronze bushing (I assume you have a muncie 4 speed vs a tremec 5 speed or something else). Make sure a magnet won't stick to the bushing. Some of them have steel in them. Also don't lubricate it. It goes in dry.
  2. The return springs on the linkage in the video look a little funky. The large one that's pointing kind of down should should be pulling straight forward. Normally it is attached to the end of the clutch fork and there was a tab on the exhaust manifold that the other end attached to. Since you're running headers you may need to fabricate a mount for the front. That's what returns the clutch pedal all of the way up and allows the throw out bearing to clear the clutch fingers
  3. If you need to replace the clutch I have this clutch in my '69 and really like it. It feels like a stock clutch but has better holding force: McLeod Racing 75224
  4. While you're at it you may want to put a good steel flywheel in if it doesn't have one already. This is the one I have in my '69: RAM Clutches 1501
FWIW - I'm running an L78 396/375 HP with L89 aluminum heads in my '69
 

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X2 on the McLeod Racing 75224, and the "sintered bronze" pilot bushing.

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Thanks guys. I ordered the McLeod clutch kit that you both recommended.
If I remember correctly you'll still need to get a pilot bushing. The one that comes ithe the clutch is magnetic. Your local parts store should be able to get you the Federal Mogul pilot bushing shown above. If they can't get the Federal Mogul bushing take a magnet to the store and check it before you buy it. I believe I purchased a National PB656HD and it was non magnetic from my local Oreilly Auto Parts store.

The old bushing can be a pain to get out of the crank. If it's a bushing vs a roller bearing I've had the best luck with the bread method. That is get a bolt that will just fit in the hole, stuff the hole with a bread, and then put the bolt in the hole and tap it with a 3lb hammer. Then add more bread and tap it again until it pushes the bushing out.

If it's a bearing you'll need a pilot bearing puller. You can rent one from the local parts store.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
If I remember correctly you'll still need to get a pilot bushing. The one that comes ithe the clutch is magnetic. Your local parts store should be able to get you the Federal Mogul pilot bushing shown above. If they can't get the Federal Mogul bushing take a magnet to the store and check it before you buy it. I believe I purchased a National PB656HD and it was non magnetic from my local Oreilly Auto Parts store.

The old bushing can be a pain to get out of the crank. If it's a bushing vs a roller bearing I've had the best luck with the bread method. That is get a bolt that will just fit in the hole, stuff the hole with a bread, and then put the bolt in the hole and tap it with a 3lb hammer. Then add more bread and tap it again until it pushes the bushing out.

If it's a bearing you'll need a pilot bearing puller. You can rent one from the local parts store.
Copy that. Thanks!
 
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