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Discussion Starter #1
I've been working on this '67 Camaro. New overdrive auto transmission, new starter, new carpet, restoring of the console with gauges, realigning of the side window glass, and a bunch of other stuff. After I got the console with gauges reconnected I was checking their lighting and turned the key to the point of bumping the starter.

Then the trouble started.

At that point I heard a click seemingly from under the hood, like a circuit breaker tripped, and now I have no power to anything. I see no fuses blown and am left puzzled. Might I have transposed the red and yellow wires on the starter? Would that have caused this? I am pretty sure I put the black wire on the "R" side and yellow on the "S" side. I don't recall a fuse link anywhere that will shut down the entire electrical system.

Go ahead and point out the obvious. (I hope it's that easy)

:smile2:
 

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Check the horn relay and also check the connection at the junction block near the battery.
 

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Check the positive battery lead sometimes there is a fuse able link on them . The purple wire goes to the lead closest to the motor when you hook it up to the starter. It sounds like a direct short . Get a test light out and start at the battery to see if there is power and from there go to the starter next to see if the power has made it to the starter
 

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Have you checked the battery with a load tester? Have you cleaned the battery terminals and post? Everything tight and clean there?

Start at the battery and work your way towards the firewall, checking voltage along the way......
 

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Good suggestions given, and first, externally charged battery or swap in a fresh battery.
As said, clean cables and clamps, then clean battery junction block next to battery, then clean and/or put both red wires into the same screw of horn relay buss bar.
On starter, purple wire to solenoid S terminal, yellow wire to R terminal and no paint between starter nose and block.
Good luck.
 

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The "click" you heard may have been the solenoid on the starter engaging, sliding the gear forward to the flywheel/flexplate, so I would not worry about any funny noise yet.

As everyone has mentioned, first VERIFY that you have all the connections correct from the battery to the starter, and then that the purple wire is on the starters correct post. Then with a volt/ohm meter, check for voltage to the starter lead. If you have voltage at the starter, that would verify that the battery to ignition switch to starter is good. If no voltage, work your way back towards the ignition switch.

Other questions I would ask:

1) Was the starter working before the transmission or center console work was done?

2) Floor shift using the factory floor shifter, or column shift?

3) When you did the wiring at the center console, and assuming its a factry floor shifter, was there wiring running to the center console for the shifters neutral safety switch/reverse lights?

With a newer transmission and factory floor shifter, you will need a new neutral safety switch that supports the newer transmission, as the 2 speed powerglide's floor shift neutral safety switch is different, and uncompatible for a Turbo hydromatic 3 speed automatic, or whatever overdrive automatic you have. This switch is mounted on the floor shifter itself (console equipped cars), or on the steering column if you have a column shift. Ricks Camaros sells neutral safety switches for these transmission upgrades. They also sell the gear select ratchet indent that is replaced on the stock factory shifter for the added gear selections (powerglide would be P-R-N-D-L, whereas the other transmissions would have P-R-N-D-1-2-3), as well as the visual plate on the console, and the transmission shift rod that connects the shifter to the transmission.

3) Maybe the neutral safety switch was removed/bypassed?

If so, then under the dash, near the steering column, there will be a purple and purple with white stripe wire that are spliced together (bypassing the neutral safety switch) so the car will start. A bit risky doing this, as this would allow the car to be started in any gear. If this was done, then there's no telling what other wiring "issues" you could have.
 

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1st check the battery. If battery is good clean battery posts and cable ends

Next check for 12v at the horn relay buss bar. If no power you probably fried the fusible link at the terminal on the radiator support. If you have 12v at the buss bar and no power at the fuse box then most likely the fusible link from the horn relay to the firewall bulkhead connector.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thank you everyone, lots of good information here. Since Kevin (bucko) gave me a running list I'll work from there.

1) Was the starter working before the transmission or center console work was done? (Andrew) This is a brand new starter.

2) Floor shift using the factory floor shifter, or column shift? (Andrew) This is a new floor shifter install. This one: https://shiftworks.com/collections/camaro-products/products/curved-t-handle-shifter

3) When you did the wiring at the center console, and assuming its a factory floor shifter, was there wiring running to the center console for the shifters neutral safety switch/reverse lights? (Andrew) I had found a purple and red wire joined under the console with no actual neutral shift connection. Detailed here: https://www.camaros.net/forums/19-electrical-wiring/459667-questionable-wiring-67-camaro-conv.html

With a newer transmission and factory floor shifter, you will need a new neutral safety switch that supports the newer transmission, as the 2 speed powerglide's floor shift neutral safety switch is different, and uncompatible for a Turbo hydromatic 3 speed automatic, or whatever overdrive automatic you have. This switch is mounted on the floor shifter itself (console equipped cars), or on the steering column if you have a column shift. Ricks Camaros sells neutral safety switches for these transmission upgrades. They also sell the gear select ratchet indent that is replaced on the stock factory shifter for the added gear selections (powerglide would be P-R-N-D-L, whereas the other transmissions would have P-R-N-D-1-2-3), as well as the visual plate on the console, and the transmission shift rod that connects the shifter to the transmission. (Andrew) Yes, this is what we've upgraded to.

3) Maybe the neutral safety switch was removed/bypassed? (Andrew) Not intentionally but I think you're on to something. There is a 2nd purple wire extending from the harness, visible in the 2nd picture in the above linked thread, but because I had found the red wire connected to the purple wire I utilized that pair. This was discussed in the above linked thread. I'm believing I fried a fusible link with root cause maybe at this neutral safety switch.
 

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Do as Vega$69 has stated: "check for 12v at the horn relay buss bar. If no power you probably fried the fusible link at the terminal on the radiator support. If you have 12v at the buss bar and no power at the fuse box then most likely the fusible link from the horn relay to the firewall bulkhead connector".


Two more things...

1) A new starter, but when you turned the key, did the starter work (spin the engine) prior to you installing the shifter/transmission/console? Or after performing any rewiring to include the neutral safety switch in your other thread reference?

In reading your other thread on installing the floor shifter, picture is a 1967 style factory shifter. I see it has the neutral safety switch installed. Is it a correct neutral safety switch for your transmission? I'll assume yes, as you most likely bought it when you also obtained the updated transmission.

The two smaller gauge wires of the switch are for the reverse lights. The green wire from the safety switch will connect to the green wire that is most likely located by or near the steering column (if it was once a column shift), and eventually this green wire runs back to the trunk, and connects to the two reverse light bulb sockets of your rear taillight assemblies. The red wire (some call it a pinkish wire when looking at a color factory wiring for a 67 Camaro) from the neutral safety switch will connect to a red (or pinkish in color) wire at the same location as the green wire, which then connects to the fuse block, according to the factory wiring diagram for a 67 Camaro, as well as how it is on my 67. Power from this red/pinkish wire of the fuse block runs to the neutral safety switch, and when the shifter is in the reverse position, 12 volts is applied to the green wire that runs back to the reverse lights.

2) As to the purple starter wires, in that link you provided, someone spliced a red lead to one of the purple leads. For 1967, Chevy used a solid purple wire, and a purple with a white tracer stripe to the ignition switch. The neutral safety switch simply is in between these two wires, which allowed 12 volts to pass between them when the shifter was in the park or neutral gear selection for an automatic transmission.

By all means, REMOVE THAT RED household wiring TWIST from the red wire to purple wire!!! Redo this connection correctly by using some heat shrink tube, and good 12 gauge wire, and solder the wires together, then slide up the heat shrink tubing around the soldered ends, and heat it with the soldering gun tip or a cigarette lighter. Or, use a good quality connector that has insulated blade style male/female connectors and avoid the crimp connectors such as the yellow one also seen in your picture; these can loosen up over time, and disconnect. If you have no other choice but to use a crimp type connector to join two wires, then slip a piece of heat shrink on one side of the wire, crimp them together, than slide the heat shrink over this connector and shrink it using heat. This will aid in keeping the crimp connector from loosening and one or both wires from coming off.

On wires that will carry a higher current flow such as these purple wires, 12 gauge is important. Anything smaller gauge (such as common 16 gauge that most folks buy at the auto part store) can and will get hot and potentially burn off the insulation, and make for a electrical smell, or worse, a fire.

By looking at that picture, I'm concerned with what other wiring issues your going to run into.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
1. No, the starter did not turn over the engine before things went dead. In the recent past I had turned the key to the ignition to test the radio and backup lights that need the ignition switch to operate. Everything was working until I accidently bumped the starter. I had not yet started the car as the driveshaft and new rear end is not yet installed.

The safety neutral switch in the shifter is supposed to be correct for a '67 model. The previously installed shifter was welded in place in the tunnel and neither the backup or neutral safety were switched to operate. The photo shows what I started with. :surprise:
I did connect the backup lights to the new shifter's switch and tested and they are now functioning correctly.

2. I can remove the wire nut and solder & shrink fit after I figure out this wiring concern. I have found I can solder using the flame from a butane lighter and do have shrink tube and a heat gun to shrink it. Maybe I need to invest in a better soldering iron. I have seen some questionable wiring on this car. Note post #8 in the linked thread above where I found the two wires cut. The circled orange wire was rejoined with a wire nut and I need to come back with solder and shrink tubing. I've not yet rejoined the two wires in question although they probably light the footwell lamps.
 

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Don't feel bad. I too have a 67, and in the past two years of its ownership, I have had to trace and correctly fix several wiring issues that this poor, poor Camaro has had done to it by its previous owners. It still has its original wiring harness. Many of the grounds were missing, disconnected, or cut off. I have had to fix the turn signals, emergency flashers (GM decided to use two separate flashers to do this), replace a missing neutral safety switch, and gas gauge ground wiring. That was just the wiring.

It's now a good running, and fully functional electronics wise 67.

Head over To Ricks Camaro's web site, and buy a color laminated wiring schematic from him. I can't recall the price, but it was under 20 bucks or less. A great investment to have to work on the wiring of these Camaro's. Let us know what the issue was of that starter issue when you get to it.
 

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Andrew69; 2. I can remove the wire nut and solder & shrink fit after I figure out this wiring concern. I have found I can solder using the flame from a butane lighter and do have shrink tube and a heat gun to shrink it. Maybe I need to invest in a better soldering iron. I have seen some questionable wiring on this car. Note post #8 in the linked thread above where I found the two wires cut. The circled orange wire was rejoined with a wire nut and I need to come back with solder and shrink tubing. I've not yet rejoined the two wires in question although they probably light the footwell lamps.[/QUOTE said:
Have you tried the butt splices that have solder inside them and heat shrink on the outside? They are different colors but see through so you can see your soldered joint and also have heat shrink that shrinks as you solder. I use a small butane soldering iron with these for smaller wire applications.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I have not tried the butt splices that have solder inside them. They look interesting and I will check them out.

Yesterday morning I had the chance to get back out there. I cleaned both battery posts and reconnected it. With the multimeter I found 12.5v at the starter and at the horn relay. I pulled the light switch and the lights work. I turned the key and the radio works. I am not yet ready to turn the engine over so will stop there. I need to test the neutral safety then remove the wire nuts and secure those unions.

The positive battery post was pretty dirty so maybe it was as simple as that. I feel kind of embarrassed to admit this but with all the help provided I am obligated to report my findings. :eek: And maybe it will help someone else.

Thanks all!!
 

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The butt splices with solder are good. I'd still use a piece of black heat shrink tubing though to provide a piece of added insurance that one or both wires don't come loose. Plus, it hides the connector.

The advantage of just soldering two wires together without a connector, and using heat shrink tubing is for a cleaner look. A butt connector with leave a fat connection in the wire.

Minor stuff maybe, but I like to do clean wiring.
 
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