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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Guys, how easy or hard, is it to replace the high beam bulb (lamp) on the dash cluster. Thx Tom
 

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Its not horrible once you get the cluster off/out. I think two screws hold the light and bulb in the pocket. See photos.
Both 67 & 68 (but 68 photo) Highbeam indicator pocket is noted by red arrow.

1967

And for reference for 68 owners
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Brian, I removed 7 screws, the speedo cable, and tach cable. It pops out about a half inch. Not coming out. Did I miss something? Thx Tom
 

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You have to drop the steering column before you can hope to remove the instrument cluster (if that's your goal).

Remove the 4 small screws that attach the 2 piece steering jacket beauty trim to the steering column. Then remove the 3 nuts that support the steering column. Next, gently pull the steering column down far enough to wriggle the instrument cluster from the dash (sounds like you've already removed everything from the backside of the cluster).

Actually, if you just want to swap the hi-beam bulb out, it's got it's own socket at the very top of the cluster. Just fish behind the top of the cluster and pop out the socket and replace the bulb.

On original clusters, I usually find that if you try to remove the screws holding the hi-beam housing from the plastic cluster, the plastic cluster screw points break (they are pretty old if you think about it).
 

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Michael, I am a little lost. I have spoken to several folks about replacing the high beam bulb. They have said the cluster must be removed before you can replace the bulb. I like your suggestion, reaching behind. I am going to try it.. How much success have you had in the past with the reach behind method. Thx tom
 

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Been a long time since I pulled one out of a 67 or 68. DO you have enough room to shine a light behind to see whats binding. Don't remember if they had already dropped the column.
 

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Hey Guys, first of all I would like to thank everyone who responded to my post. I dropped the steering column and the cluster came right out (very simple). Next, I removed the ground clip from the high beam post and it snapped, WTF. Then I purchased two nos ground straps. One a 67, the other a 68. Guess which one I installed, the thicker 68. I have several additional issues. Will post in next tread.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hey Guys, after checking the back of the cluster, I noticed a black bulb holder missing for the low fuel light. No big deal, I ordered a used oem one on line with new bulbs. Then I checked the bottom of the black dash carrier, it had a small piece that was cracked and then it popped off, WTF. I did find a used oem one in nice shape. The whole process it beginning to turn into nightmare. All for a high beam bulb.
 

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Most projects have some mission creep. You might consider just running some wire from the top of the cluster housing from the bolt that would hold down the optional speed warning module then screw the other end of the wire to the dash support metal and have a stable working ground. There are a few threads on doing this to avoid issues with the paperclip.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hey Guys, here is the 411 on my 911. I installed the courtesy lights, everything was ok there. Not sure if they are in the exact location under the dash, no biggie. Now for the my major issue. When I re-insatlled the dash cluster, major issues occurred. The turn signals are on all the time, I ran another ground to the dash from the cluster (I have a good ground for sure). So then I removed the cluster from the dash and checked the circuit board. First I checked continuity, all good and then I ran 12vdc. Everything works well. Then I plugged the harness in the cluster. Same thing transpired, turn signals are on all the time (not blinking), I am thinking ground issue. Also the head lights will not come on with the harness unplugged or plugged. Checked the fuses on the drivers side floor, everything fine there. Any suggestions. Thx Tom P.S. All for a high beam lamp. :confused:
 

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make sure your 4 way flasher is not on, and move the wires behind the headlight switch see if they go on
 

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Hey Nick, four way flasher is off and I tested the headlight switch, everything good there.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hey Guys, wanted close this thread on a positive note. The first issue I had was the turn signals not blinking after I re-installed the dash cluster. The problem was a loose pin on the turn signal switch connector at the bottom of the steering column (see pic). The second issue was my headlights were not coming on. I resolved that issue also. I had a bad ground under the wheel well. I went on line and ordered a large colored wiring diagram for my RS (see pic). With that being said, it was game on and my problems were solved in no time with my multi meter.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Wanted to add one more thing to this thread. I looked over my new wiring diagram, then made sure all my grounds were tight, secure, and clean. Also went thru all the electrical connections, relays, fuse panel, etc. I cleaned everything up with contact cleaner, brass brush, and added di-electric grease. I wanted to thank everyone who helped me change my high beam bulb (lol). It was a nightmare at first, but in the end I learned a lot and resolved the issues. Thx again, Tom
 

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Is that ground clip suppose to be bent and shaped to hit some metal when the cluster is put back in??? I just now pulled my cluster to replace all the bulbs and high beam as well, on order now. When I took the cluster out, the clip you show is all mangled up. I just want to make sure I put in back in the right way.
 

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Dale the screw in the front of the instrumentation housing contacts metal, and that intern grounds the high-beam indicator housing and then the metal aka "the paper-clip" grounds the main instrumentation pod. The whole system was a weak chain based on how good the screw was fastened to the dash frame. A common "fix" for the design flaw is to ground the pod direct, and that in turn if the paperclip is intact grounds the high-beam indicator housing. Or you can also install a blue LED in the housing patch it in and never change it again.

Brian
 

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Any of the big electrical houses sell LED assemblies. Painless makes this one that has the symbols on it but not necessary.


But a standard LED lamp assembly the same size as the bulb will fit into position. you can wire it in easily.


Brian
 

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I see both options you show online. Either $9 or $5.

1. What will hold either of these in place now? The original bulb and connector snap into place.
2. This is also a two-wire vs a single wire. Would the red splice into the one wire and the black go to ground screw?
3. Is there an option to purchase a blue LED bulb that would fit into the original connector? Seems like the easiest way. If you have a link to purchase one.
 
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