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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
What's up guru's, haven't posted in awhile. I have a mono leaf setup in the rear and i ordered small block springs in the front, which are installed for 2 years now. I just removed my KYB excel twin tube gas shocks ($25-$30 each). Is this a normal stance for my ride height. Wheels are 17" front (225/45) rear (255/40). Now I know the rear tires are small, not my issue right now, it's the ride height, also I'm not building a race car, just a cruiser/commuter. Contemplating on some QA1 coil overs in the front and QA1 shocks in the rear. I was going to drop it 2" all the way around, but I'm not trying to remove my oil pan by accident... lol.
 

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68 RS L30 AA 749
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Looks fairly normal (stock) to me. There's factory height dimensions listed in the assembly manual. Would you prefer it setting higher or lower ?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Looks fairly normal (stock) to me. There's factory height dimensions listed in the assembly manual. Would you prefer it setting higher or lower ?
I wanted to know if there were some shocks i can get that weren't so stiff. I've read that QA1 is the way to go, coil over in the front and the rear a QA1 basic shock assembly. I removed the KYB Excel's because there was literally no movement in the suspension. The KYB's are brand new, when I removed the front it was stiff still, but the rear i can bounce the car like a basketball. When before it was impossible. I'm thinking I ordered the wrong shocks. Ride height is ok I guess, I just don't want to go too low.
 

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Take a look at the Ride Tech Street Grip package. It rides and drives great and is tuned for street use.
If you are just looking for shocks, the Bilstein shocks are cheap and ride well on the street. They are gas charged so push the car up a little. I've seen the rear raise 1/2" switching from std shocks to gas shocks. The front doesn't respond that much because the shocks have poor leverage over the wheels.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Take a look at the Ride Tech Street Grip package. It rides and drives great and is tuned for street use.
If you are just looking for shocks, the Bilstein shocks are cheap and ride well on the street. They are gas charged so push the car up a little. I've seen the rear raise 1/2" switching from std shocks to gas shocks. The front doesn't respond that much because the shocks have poor leverage over the wheels.
I measured my current ride height "without" shocks. The lowest point on the car are the exhaust pipes, about 5 inches off the ground. I guess the main reason for this thread was if QA1 coil overs are worth the money. And has anyone had any issues with them? If I lower the car I'll be using "The right stuff" drop spindle kit, and 2" lowering blocks in the rear.
 

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Discussion Starter #7

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The Excel G's shouldn't be considered stiff. As mentioned, they're just a stock replacement.

Just for the heck of it, I'd suggest loosening the lower control arms and rear shackles, then bouncing the car. A lot of times builders (restorers) torque them down before the car is fully assembled. This should be done after the FULL weight of the car is on the springs.
 

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I run the QA-1s up front with Global West A-Arms and like them although they are a little hard to adjust. My memory might fail me but I "suspect" I left out the torrington bearings that make adjustment easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The Excel G's shouldn't be considered stiff. As mentioned, they're just a stock replacement.

Just for the heck of it, I'd suggest loosening the lower control arms and rear shackles, then bouncing the car. A lot of times builders (restorers) torque them down before the car is fully assembled. This should be done after the FULL weight of the car is on the springs.
I'll try loosening the lower control arms, I might have tighten those with subframe off the ground. The rear bounces well without shocks, but when I put the shocks on, it's really stiff.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I run the QA-1s up front with Global West A-Arms and like them although they are a little hard to adjust. My memory might fail me but I "suspect" I left out the torrington bearings that make adjustment easier.
I want to keep the stock control arms, just use the single adjustment QA's. Tubular is pretty, but I'm not racing the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
My tire size is bugging me now... it's actually causing the illusion of the car being lifted... stock camaro tires are 25.5". Building an old school is such a pain in the arse. Thank you all for the help!
 

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OP

Stock height with 14" or 15" rims left quite a gap between tire and wheel well. Few ways to "adjust the stance".


Larger rims & tires

Lower car

Combination of the 2 but that gets very expensive

Larger tires & rims will fill the wheel well but also keep the car height high

Lowering can be done with drop spindles, springs or coil overs up front.

Lowering leaf springs, blocks or coil overs in the rear

FWIW I have a 25.6" rear tire and a 24.7" front tire on 14" rims. Had, in my opinion, a lot of space between tire and wheel well. I used RideTech lowering springs up front and 2" blocks in the rear

Pics of before, black wall tires. After, raised white letter tires



 

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Discussion Starter #14
I like that SoCal805. Appreciate the information. The stance looks perfect on your car, pretty much what im looking for.
 

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The Excel G's shouldn't be considered stiff. As mentioned, they're just a stock replacement.

Just for the heck of it, I'd suggest loosening the lower control arms and rear shackles, then bouncing the car. A lot of times builders (restorers) torque them down before the car is fully assembled. This should be done after the FULL weight of the car is on the springs.
Garth is correct. I got a 2" drop loosening up all the new components on the RS front end with the weight of the car on the ground. If it gets tightened in the air, it won't settle down like it should.
 

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What springs did you use up front? I recently replaced my front springs with Moog 6308s. They sit a bit lower than other small block springs. The photos in My Garage were taken right after the spring replacement.

To compare apples to apples, take a measurement from the center of the hub straight up to the fender lip. Mine sits right a 14 1/8". I run a 225/60/15 tire which is about 5/8" larger in diameter than your fronts. I also run Excel Gs. It is a stock replacement, but the ride is much better than the previous "performance" shocks that were on it before.

Make sure your front springs were indexed properly when installed.
 

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What's up guru's, haven't posted in awhile. I have a mono leaf setup in the rear and i ordered small block springs in the front, which are installed for 2 years now. I just removed my KYB excel twin tube gas shocks ($25-$30 each). Is this a normal stance for my ride height. Wheels are 17" front (225/45) rear (255/40). Now I know the rear tires are small, not my issue right now, it's the ride height, also I'm not building a race car, just a cruiser/commuter. Contemplating on some QA1 coil overs in the front and QA1 shocks in the rear. I was going to drop it 2" all the way around, but I'm not trying to remove my oil pan by accident... lol.
Here's a picture of my car from the side (sort of) with stock set up for reference. I could take others, but it's put up for the winter with snow on the ground. You can get an idea of the gap here....

I hope to start a pro touring project in the spring, so it will be much different then of course. I'm building a 302CID, with original block, crank, etc....

drive.google.com/open?id=0B8cAZFjfJZztMzd3UGN2Q0xLNFk
 

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What springs did you use up front? Make sure your front springs were indexed properly when installed.
If you are talking about my car, RideTech. It is a progressive spring. Ride, in my opinion, is good

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/art-11162350

Ridetech says 1 1/2" drop. I got 1 5/8"

Yes I indexed the springs on install

Center of hub to fender lip is (edit) 13 1/2"

225/60 x 14 Tire on a 14 x 7 Mag
 

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Check the sticky thread at the top of this forum section for spring results/photos.
Moog 6308 is a nice lowering spring for a small block camaro. It's a Z/28 coil with 380 rate compared to 325ish for a stock coil. Gives a little boost in rate but very stock feeling and lowers the car.
Moog 6320 is the same rate, but a little taller for a slightly heavier front weight or those desiring a little more height.

Those Ride Tech coils are dual rate so they ride nice & stiffen up if you hit a big bump to help keep the car from bottoming out.
I don't like drop spindles on a first gen.
They position the steering arm right alongside the sidewall of the tire, limiting the width of tire you can fit.
They put the suspension at stock ride height angles which isn't helpful to suspension geometry. A stock Camaro when lowered without drop spindles puts the suspension in a higher neg camber gain part of the suspension "curve" due to more angle on the upper A arm. It is also gaining positive caster when lowered which is very helpful. In other words, the poor stock suspension geometry gets better when it's lowered.

A taller spindle is an improvement for camber gain, but by itself makes bump steer worse. It needs the steering arm height moved to correct the bump steer. Stock Camaros have some toe out in bump but tall spindles make it toe out much more.
 

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If you are talking about my car, RideTech. It is a progressive spring. Ride, in my opinion, is good

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/art-11162350

Ridetech says 1 1/2" drop. I got 1 5/8"

Yes I indexed the springs on install

Center of hub to fender lip is (edit) 13 1/2"

225/60 x 14 Tire on a 14 x 7 Mag
Sorry @SoCal805, my post was directed at the OP. Your ride height looks perfect to me. I like the old-school Cragars.

Mike.
 
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