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I am novice about to purchase 67 convertible camaro that has a 70's(?)350 with the original tranny (not connected)- and she has not run in 7/8 years. Body and interior look very good + original- value??? I am just starting to learn and would greatly appreciate any troubleshooting advice/what to look for/where or who to ask, etc.Thanks!

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scout davis
 

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Scout.....Welcome!! This is a great site and full of usefull info. I am about 90% through a restoration of my 67 ragtop.

First thing would be to write down all the numbers on the trim tag which is on the firewall next to the master cylinder. You can post it on the appropriate site and get it interpreted or you might want to pick up a Camaro white book or other reference and do it yourself.

Key things would be is it an RS or an SS? Or maybe even an RS/SS? Does it have a deluxe or regular interior? Does the engine run? Do you care? Is the tranny one you want to use or were you going to change it? Does it have a console? Extra gauge cluster?

Look around e-bay motors and you can get a little feel for cars out there, condition, and prices.

Mark M.
 

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Where in GA are you located? Just moved into town and I have an awesome pair of '67 Convertibles. What info can I help you with?
 

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Welcome Scout, you have come to the perfect place to get help on your resto work. There are Tons of info saved here that is accessible thru the search option and the knowlegeable people who gather here takes charge of the rest. Good luck...

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Our affair with Camaros is a live sentence without the possibility of parole www.geocities.com/c68ss http://home.coqui.net/borench
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you! <BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by memcgraw:
Scout.....Welcome!! This is a great site and full of usefull info. I am about 90% through a restoration of my 67 ragtop.

First thing would be to write down all the numbers on the trim tag which is on the firewall next to the master cylinder. You can post it on the appropriate site and get it interpreted or you might want to pick up a Camaro white book or other reference and do it yourself.

Key things would be is it an RS or an SS? Or maybe even an RS/SS? Does it have a deluxe or regular interior? Does the engine run? Do you care? Is the tranny one you want to use or were you going to change it? Does it have a console? Extra gauge cluster?

Look around e-bay motors and you can get a little feel for cars out there, condition, and prices.

Mark M.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I am in Atlanta- I actually know some more about the car today: It had a 327,it is an rs with what I think is the standard interior, has been repainted but same color-more or less-and I can so far only find a patch of rust coming through in the door jamb (I have a 65 chev fleetside with A LOT more rust!). The original 327 engine block is sitting beside the car and all of the various original parts were kept, as well. Since I have no idea how much corrosion an engine block can withstand, that is one of my questions. And until I can really get under the car, I don't know what else is going on with it..but it is still a beauty. I curious about the 350 that is paired with the original tranny - I am wondering if some of the gear ratios(?) will be strange and then make the engine run higher rpms than it needs to- any ideas? I am a beginner with this stuff, and I really appreciate your advice <BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by spistols:
Where in GA are you located? Just moved into town and I have an awesome pair of '67 Convertibles. What info can I help you with?

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
 

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you really don't need to worry about that one. the original rearend is probably a 2.73 which is pretty tall anyway. The main thing to look for when buying is the body and frame. check for bondo, and be very very careful about rust, it's no fun at all. all of the mechanics are pretty easy compared to the body work if it has a lot of rust. an engine block can withstand quite a bit of corrosion, as long as it's machined and everything else. I'd take a good look at the cylinder walls and see if you can find out why it was replaced in the first place. what price are you currently looking at?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The price I am looking at right now is between 4-6 thou. which seems reasonable(?) for the condition of the body.
 

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I can't stress enough that you should look the body over for rust and other problems. Under the hood, look in the area forward of the wheel wells for rust on the inner fenders and fenders (you may have to remove the battery and feel around the cocktail shakers). Take a soft magent like you use to hang stuff on the fridge. Apply it to the lower rear area of the front fenders, the lower part of the doors including the BOTTOMS of the doors, the rocker areas, the rear quarter panels all the way around the wheel wells. Pull the rear tires, take a light and look up in the wheel wells for any rust. Get under the car and very carefully look for rust in the floors. Pull all the junk out of the trunk and remove the trunk mat if it's there and look at the trunk floor pan. All of these areas are very susceptible to rust. If the magnet does not stick in any of these areas or you see rust bubbling through, you need to take replacement costs into account. Now, just because there is rust doesn't mean you should pass on the car. But you should know what you are facing and how much it will cost to remedy.
Next, how complete is the car? I really prefer to buy a car that is all together and complete. There are so many original pieces that you can restore and they fit better than most of the repos. This saves alot. If it's together, you can take it apart with good notes and pictures and bag everything with labels and it's alot easier going back together.
I think this car sounds like a great project if it has no or minimal rust. I would plan on $2-3,000 for a decent engine rebuild, $4-8,000 for body work and paint from a good shop and another $5-8,000 for things like brakes, suspension, interior and all. Good luck!



[This message has been edited by denverRS/SS (edited 10-03-2001).]
 

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I'd like to add my very non-expertish opinion here: don't let those figures in denver's post scare you off. those seem like show car costs to me. a nice driver would cost much less to restore than that, especially if there is minimal rust
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yes- I want a driver, at least right now. So far I have been able to find three quarter-size spots of rust at 3 wheel wells plus one 3"D spot on a rear q.panel. Not too much? Looks pretty good to me, but I do drive an old c-10...guess I'd better get this one quick!
 
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