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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I want to install an electric fuel pump on my '67, but need a return line to connect to the fuel pressure regulator. Are there any "no return line" setup options that doesn't involve an in-tank pump system?
 

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Lots of pumps you run deadheaded.

Is this a carb or EFI and what kind of HP/use you planing ?
 

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Just out of curiosity, why do you want to run an electric fuel pump?
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Just out of curiosity, why do you want to run an electric fuel pump?
I'm not completely sold on it yet, just weighing options. This is a new build and the mechanical fuel pump is running too close to the crossmember and I'm having a hard time finding hose fittings that will clear the space available. I still might keep the mechanical pump and just figure out the fitting piece.
 

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I'm not completely sold on it yet, just weighing options. This is a new build and the mechanical fuel pump is running too close to the crossmember and I'm having a hard time finding hose fittings that will clear the space available. I still might keep the mechanical pump and just figure out the fitting piece.
is your pump "clockable" ? some have a base you can rotate to get the inlet/outlet in a better position.
 

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What kind of engine build is it and what mechanical fuel pump have you got for it to be running too close to the crossmember? Something sounds off here...
 

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is your pump "clockable" ? some have a base you can rotate to get the inlet/outlet in a better position.
That’s what I did. These cars rolled out of the factory with mechanical fuel pumps so unless you doing something highly extraordinary, they should work fine.

I’d really only consider and electric pump if circumstances required it like EFI or a very high horsepower engine. I’ve seen Frieberger make around 800 Hp with a mechanical pump.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
is your pump "clockable" ? some have a base you can rotate to get the inlet/outlet in a better position.
Yeah, it's clockable...the problem is one position puts the inlet too close to the crossmember, the next position puts the outlet straight into the block
 

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If you get an in-tank pump it has a return nozzle. I used a bypass pressure regulator and braided stainless tubing with AN fittings and compression AN fittings on the pump nozzles (more pressure). This was in the process of changing to EFI which has not happened yet. In the process I found why my stock pump was not working. Short tube from tank to fuel line was sucking air and not priming. It had older SS tube that was not good for E10, same with the old Carb connection. Unless you have the newer tubing good for E10 it will eventually leak.
 

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Yeah, it's clockable...the problem is one position puts the inlet too close to the crossmember, the next position puts the outlet straight into the block
It only has two positions? The one I used had 6 or 8 as I recall. Stop and think for a minute. All these cars rolled out of the factory with a mechanical pump so it will work in your car. Maybe you just have one that is not compatible for some reason. Don't go to the expense of an electric pump over this.
 

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It only has two positions? The one I used had 6 or 8 as I recall. Stop and think for a minute. All these cars rolled out of the factory with a mechanical pump so it will work in your car. Maybe you just have one that is not compatible for some reason. Don't go to the expense of an electric pump over this.
Read above. Check the soft line from the tank to the fuel line. If it is not solid you will lose prime and No Fuel. About 1 foot of rubber fuel line and two clamps can fix it.
 

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Read above. Check the soft line from the tank to the fuel line. If it is not solid you will lose prime and No Fuel. About 1 foot of rubber fuel line and two clamps can fix it.
I think you might have meant to reply to someone else?
 

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I think you might have meant to reply to someone else?
Probably. Didn't scroll down enough. Actually referring to something I said earlier. Or I dropped my mouse and the aim is off. Take your pick.
 
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